Gandalf the VW is settled on a very lovely campsite in the heart of the Peak District. We’re staying at Upper Hurst Farm, an independently run site with 5 star facilities and views. It’s really great to be out and about again in the van, we’re a big fan of winter camping, providing we’ve got decent facility blocks!
Here at Upper Hurst Farm, we’re spoilt as the campsite has large heated shower and toilet blocks, plus a campers kitchen complete with microwave / kettle/ washing machine and tumble drier (not that we’ll need these!)
Our drive up here was good and we were pleased to arrive before it got dark, which made for an easy set up, but better still, enough daylight to explore the path to the local pub, The Manifold Inn. There is a half a mile off road footpath to the pub- which despite being muddy under foot was easy to navigate and before we knew it we were enjoying a beverage next to the log fire. The pub was charming and cosy, and had a great menu- of soon got earmarked for a meal or two over the coming days.
We got back to Gandalf just before dark, settled in and enjoyed some homemade pies and mash from the freezer cooked in the Remoska for dinner before settling down to a film on the iPad and an early night.
Friday dawned a bit wetter than hoped but we weren’t going to let that stop us. We had bacon and egg sarnies and got our wet gear on. By 10:30 we were heading out for a walk to Thor’s Cave and the Manifold trail. The first section was hard going- it was heavy rain and exceptionally muddy under foot, but after half an hour the rain dried up and left us with a dry day ahead.
The village of Wetton was small and pretty and had an exceptionally converted police station now into a house with original features.
We had hoped for a pint at Wetton but the pub had strange opening hours and was closed, so we continued down the valley (and back up a bit to the cave) and found Thor’s Cave. This large cathedral like cave is imposing and has great views across the Manifold valley.
From the cave we continued descending into the valley floor, and then followed the very easy path (The Manifold Way) through the valley all the way back to the Manifold Inn, just in time for a large plate of chilli topped chips which really hit the spot. [Note the Manifold Inn doesn’t serve food between 3pm – 6pm]
By the time we got back to Gandalf we’d enjoyed the sun going down, a sun downer and clocked up almost 10.5 miles – we’d thoroughly enjoyed it.
Our evening was spent having a big chill- another film and a campsite stew which we’d got out of the freezer and cooked in the remoska.
New Year’s Eve arrived and the weather forecast was awful. We awoke to rain as the forecast had predicted so we had a duvet morning. About 11:30 the rain began to ease and we decided to walk the short distance to the Manifold Inn for an early lunch- we’d both spied local sausage and mash on the menu and it had tempted us. It was very tasty!
Since the weather was dry, we felt guilty about doing nothing, and fancied a leg stretch so we walked the short distance to nearby Hartington (a regular bus services runs Mon- sat- but our timings didn’t work)
Hartington is a pretty market village, with a number of shops and delis and even a cheese shop. Naturally we brought some cheese, and would have had a pint in the Devonshire arms- a cosy central pub – however it was packed, so we had a pint at the historic YHA bar instead, situated in Hartington Manor. (Thanks to a tip off about this from a couple we met as we walked to Hartington.)
After a quick refreshment stop we made our way the scenic route back to Gandalf, through Beresford Dale, which was beautiful, and by the time we’d got back, we’d clocked up 6.5 miles! We really enjoyed the walk!
The rest of New Year’s Eve was spent relaxing, we had cheese board and party food, whilst I read and Keith watched some bits on his iPad. Later on we watched a film and enjoyed cheese fondue, and the next thing it was midnight and a new year was here! We’d really enjoyed NYE.
New Year’s Day dawned wet and wild- but thankfully but the time we’d had our cooked brunch it had stopped. We went for a walk towards Alstonefield – a nearby pretty village in our guide book.
The route took us around Narrowdale Hill and down into Alstonefield. It was a little disappointing to not be able to have a refreshment stop at the village pub- it was a pretty pub but doesn’t accept drinkers only, and I image certainly not wet and muddy ones like us! It’s a fine dining restaurant which I’m sure is lovely but in an area full of walkers it felt a shame not to be able to have a pint and a packet of crisps.
Instead we went on an adventure in the 12th century church and graveyard, which hosts one of the oldest legible gravestones in the country apparently. After a good old fashioned hunt, we found it, the gravestone of Anne Green who died in 1517 making the gravestone over 500 years old. Remarkable.
From Alstonefield we dipped down into Wolfscote Dale. The descent from the village in the valley was absolutely spectacular- it really took our breaths away. We were very glad not to be doing the walk in reverse as the ascent would have been unpleasant for us, but the descent was just spectacular.
The walk through Wolfscote Dale really was charming, with the river dove thrashing through the centre of the valley, and steep limestone cliffs towering about us. It’s a real hidden gem if you ask me.
As we emerged from Wolfscote Dale and returned to the van, we felt quite tired – we were surprised to see we’d walked 8.7 miles by the time we got back, but nothing some Christmas cake and a dram or two didn’t fix.
We did however have an easy evening and had tuna pasta for dinner and a very early night.
We have absolutely adored our time here. Thanks Dad and Jenny for the suggestion of this site. It’s a perfect base for winter adventures and I can see us returning as there are miles of walks from the site. With way transport links- the bus route takes you to Ashbourne or Buxton, plus a nice pub relatively close. What’s not to like?!
If you’re interested in this area, we actually had a nice stay just a couple of miles down the road earlier this year. Read about it here.
We made use of two really great guide books on this trip – links below
Click here And Click here
We’ve got a few adventures lined up so it won’t be long until we’re back out again,
Wishing you all a very happy and healthy new year,
Until next time
Lx
b
