It felt so good to be back out in Gandalf the VW—especially for a trip we’d booked a while ago. The past couple of months have been a mix of ups and downs as we’ve navigated Jazz’s stroke and the realities of an elderly dog, so this night away felt especially needed.
In the run-up to the trip, everything seemed to hang on a knife edge. Storm Claudia hit… and Jazz had a second stroke. Thankfully he bounced back within 24 hours. The day before we were due to leave, relentless rain and wind battered us, and the forecast promised more of the same for Saturday.
But when we woke up on Saturday morning it was just damp, and we agreed we should still go. We needed a change of scenery, and Southwold has plenty of lovely pubs—no need to be outside much anyway.
Arriving & Settling In
We’d booked Southwold Caravan Site, a great location—slightly pricey at £42 a night, but with hard standing, electric, good shower rooms, and an easy walk into town.
We arrived at 1 p.m. and were allowed straight in (official check-in is 2 p.m., which feels a bit late). Ten minutes later we were set up, and twenty minutes after that we were sitting in our first pub.
The Red Lion
We had sausage rolls and a pint in The Red Lion before making our way to our favourite—The Lord Nelson.
The Lord Nelson & Fish and Chips
We walked down the sea front to The Lord Nelson for a quick pint of Adnams Old Ale. Our fave!
By then the drizzle had stopped, so we grabbed fish and chips from The Little Fish & Chip Shop, which must surely be one of the prettiest chippies in the country.
Their fish and chips are absolutely delicious, as is their homemade tartare sauce. Everything is cooked fresh, and you’re given a buzzer for when it’s ready.
While we waited for our order, Lydia zipped down to the Adnams shop for a gin-in-a-tin and a bottle of Kobold lager for Keith. We sat overlooking the sea, washing down our lunch while enjoying the view.
Back to the Fire
We then headed back to The Lord Nelson to enjoy the glorious open fire and a couple of pints of our favourite winter ale—Old Ale. Keith also tried amount of Yuletide.
After that we popped into the Adnams shop to stock up for Christmas and finished the afternoon with a drink at The Sole Bay Inn.
Southwold is full of independent shops and is unbelievably dog-friendly. It really is the perfect place for a winter escape.
Evening at the Harbour Inn
After a quick freshen up in Gandalf, we walked about fifteen minutes in the opposite direction toward the harbour. Even though it was pitch black, it felt atmospheric, with the tinkering of the boat masts all around us. We passed some delicious-looking fresh fish shacks (next time!) and eventually reached the quaint and historic Harbour Inn.
The menu was fantastic—almost too fantastic. We had to seriously talk ourselves out of ordering everything. In the end we chose the Suffolk smokies: smoked haddock in a rich cheese sauce with bread for dipping. Pure comfort. Keith had the haddock and leek chowder, also absolutely delicious.
Next time, we’ll be trying the fish pie, the smoked haddock and chips, and—let’s be honest—the smokies again.
The Perfect End
Full to bursting and merry on ale, we wandered back to Gandalf for an early night, serenaded by the sound of crashing winter waves.
Perfection. We’ll be back. Perhaps every month 😂
Campsite details: https://southwoldcamping.com
Open March- end of November
