Happy New Year from Bridlington 2026

From the rolling hills of the Yorkshire Wolds and our stop near Pocklington, we made the short drive over to the C&MC Club site at Bridlington, which would be our base for the next four nights.

Check-in was refreshingly quick thanks to the new fast-lane system. No need to trek back to reception to confirm pitch numbers – a simple text reply telling them where you’re staying does the job. A small change, but a very welcome one.

Once settled, we cooked up a delicious pork fillet stir fry, then spent the evening exactly how we like it: relaxed, cosy, and quietly reading as the wind rustled outside the van.

The Day Before New Year’s Eve: Scarborough by Rail 🚆

The following day we set off on foot, walking the two miles to Bempton railway station where we hopped on a train to Scarborough – just £4.40 each. We went without huge expectations (Whitby still holds our hearts up this stretch of coast), but Scarborough surprised us in the best way.

We spent a few hours exploring, stopping for drinks with glorious sea views over the harbour. It helped the weather was much nicer than expected.

The standout was The Lookout, which was buzzing with diners tucking into impressive-looking plates of fresh fish and seafood. Watching the sun dip over the harbour, it genuinely felt Mediterranean.

Fish and chips came courtesy of Tunny Club, housed in an old fisherman’s cottage and every bit as good as you’d hope.

We also rode the oldest cliff railway in the UK, a lovely nod to the town’s heritage, before popping into the terrace bar at the Grand Hotel – once famous for being the largest hotel in Europe.

The weather gods were smiling down on us and we enjoyed the most spectacular sunset before boarding the bus back to Bridlington and another bus from Brid to the campsite.

Back at the van that evening, we enjoyed a comforting slow-cooker chicken casserole with fresh bread and another relaxed night in.

New Year’s Eve: Coastal Paths and Quiet Celebrations 🥂

On New Year’s Eve we walked into Bridlington from the campsite – around a mile to Sewerby, where you pick up the coast path into town. It’s a beautiful, easy walk with sweeping sea views, and we couldn’t pass The Ship at Sewerby without stopping. It has a cracking beer garden, perched above the sea, which reminded us a little of the Ship Inn in Mundesley.

Bridlington itself felt a bit tired in places, but we struck gold thanks to a recommendation from Dad and Jenny. Jerome’s Pavilion is an absolute gem, perfectly positioned on the seafront with spectacular sea views from almost every angle. Drinks, cocktails, food, dog-friendly, and a brilliant atmosphere – we ended up staying for a couple of drinks both outside in the winter sunshine and inside by the window.

After fish and chips down by the harbour and a gentle wander, we retraced our steps along the coast, soaking up the very last sunlight of 2025.

New Year’s Eve itself was a quiet one for us – two films, a buffet, and bed before midnight, content and full of sea air. For those who prefer a party, the campsite wardens had organised a pub night which seemed popular and well appreciated by many onsite, but we were more than happy in our pyjamas.

NYE Buffet!

If you’re considering Bridlington for New Year, it’s a great base and a really well-run site. Do note, though, that there were fireworks going off locally during the night. Our Jazz is deaf and unbothered, but it’s worth bearing in mind for dogs who struggle with noise.

New Year’s Day: Danes Dyke and a Feast 🍾

New Year’s Day began slowly, with bacon and sausage doorstep sandwiches for breakfast – the perfect start.

Late morning we headed out for a leg stretch and bumped into warden Kevin (aka Luna Travels), who recognised Jazz first and then us from our blogs! It was so lovely to meet you, Kevin – and thank you for following along over the years. Safe travels to you both!

Our walk took us left out of the campsite gate on a four-mile circular route, taking in Danes Dyke, a deep wooded ravine right beside the site on the Flamborough Headland. Thought to be an Iron Age defensive earthwork and later reused by Romans and Vikings, it once stretched coast to coast as a natural defence line. Standing there, it’s easy to see how formidable it must have been.

We followed the coast back to our local, the Ship at Sewerby, for a swift pint. It was freezing, and I couldn’t stay inside too long – the Yorkshire puddings on the carvery were calling far too loudly.

Walking route here

The afternoon was spent back at the van, relaxing before a proper three-course celebration dinner to welcome 2026:

Prawns. Steak. Chocolate salted caramel pudding.

All washed down with fizz and red wine. Absolute perfection.

Reflections on Our Bridlington New Year

We’ve had an amazing break away. It’s always a pleasure to return to Yorkshire, especially to parts of the UK we love – with the added bonus of discovering new corners and breathing in plenty of sea air.

As always, C&MC Club sites make winter touring in a VW camper van an absolute joy. Warm, clean facilities and endless hot water make all the difference, and they played a big part in making this one of the best New Year getaways we can remember.

This particular club site had a good transport link, with regular buses running from outside the gate to either Flamborough Head (ideal for puffin season) or Bridlington. From Bridlington you can either take the train or bus to Scarborough.

We hope you had a wonderful New Year too, whatever you got up to – and here’s to many brilliant adventures in 2026 🥂🚐

First job when we’re home… wash the van!

PS.. meet our new travel buddy… Sonny the Seagull. Who likes to feast on stolen chips…

Twixmas Escape to Yorkshire; Part 1

Gandalf the Campervan is currently nestled on the edge of the Yorkshire Wolds, perfectly placed for a Twixmas escape. We’re en route to the seaside but decided to break up the journey somewhere we hadn’t really explored before — which is quite rare, considering how much of Yorkshire we have already covered.

We’re staying at The Mile Campsite, just on the outskirts of Pocklington. It’s a simple but very functional base, with everything we needed: hard standing pitches, electric hook-up, decent hot showers, and a washing-up area with hot water (always a bonus).

From the campsite, it’s about a 15-minute walk on a pavement into town. Pocklington has a good selection of pubs, a Co-op, an Aldi, a handful of charity shops, and even a butcher — sadly closed while we were there. Our standout favourite, though, was the Brew York Tap Room, which not only serves excellent beer but also delicious Korean street food. Definitely worth the visit alone!

We arrived around 1pm and headed straight out for a wander to the tap room before returning to the van for food and a proper chill-out. The campsite is wonderfully quiet, making it easy to relax, and we slept incredibly well.

On Sunday, after that great night’s sleep, we headed out to explore some of the local footpaths. We walked around two miles up to Millington to try The Gait Inn, a lovely dog-friendly pub in a pretty little village. From there, we followed small, quiet lanes — which also form part of the Yorkshire Wolds Way — looping back around into Pocklington for some snacks at the tap room.

It was a very pleasant walk, just under seven miles in total.

Walk route here

In the summer months, the Wolds Explorer bus runs from here, which would make this an ideal base for exploring more of the Yorkshire Wolds without moving the van. There’s also a direct bus to York, just 14 miles away, adding even more options for days out.

All in all, it’s been a perfect place to stop, slow down, and recharge. We’d happily return — and wouldn’t hesitate to recommend it as a base for exploring this beautiful part of Yorkshire.

As we packed up and left the campsite, ready to continue our journey along to the coast, we couldn’t resist a small detour into the heart of the Yorkshire Wolds. Our stop was the charming village of Huggate, said to be the highest village in the Wolds and a place we’d can imagine is often sped past rather than explored.

Can you spot us?

Just eight miles from Pocklington — and even reachable by bus in the summer months — Huggate feels delightfully tucked away. If you’re arriving by vehicle, there’s a free car park on the edge of the village (worth noting the 2.2m height barrier). One of Huggate’s most curious claims to fame is the deepest village well in England. Sitting proudly on the village green, the well plunges an impressive 103 metres underground and is definitely worth stopping for a photo.

From the village car park, we set off on a four-mile circular walk, which turned out to be a real highlight. The most dramatic section follows the rim of Horsedale, where the path hugs the edge of the steep valley for over a mile. The views here are simply stunning — rolling countryside stretching out in every direction. There’s even a bench perfectly placed to soak it all in, making it an ideal picnic spot. We enjoyed the view (and a slice of Christmas cake).

Our walk was 4 miles and really great, The most spectacular is the middle section where you follow the rim of Horsedale for a mile or so. There is a bench on the route overlooking the Dale so a picnic would be lovely here too. We enjoyed some Christmas cake!

Find our Walk route here

Have you explored the Yorkshire Wolds? We’ve thoroughly enjoyed our time here. It’s been a joy to slow down and discover an area we usually just whizz past either to York or further north — a reminder that sometimes the best places are the ones just off the main road.

London Christmas Adventure 🎄✨

Our annual festive roadtrip began with an unexpected detour through London that led us straight to the Woolwich Ferry. Neither of us had experienced it before, and sailing across the Thames for a few minutes was a surprisingly fun start to the trip. The ferry gave us a unique perspective of the river and the city, and set a playful, adventurous tone for the weekend ahead.

Once we arrived at Abbey Wood Campsite and got settled in, we made our way into London for a Dickens-themed walk — one of our favourite festive traditions. Following the narrow streets and historic alleys that inspired A Christmas Carol and Pickwick Papers, we explored literary landmarks and historic pubs.

Dickens map here

Highlights included 1 Lombard Street, where Dickens’ first love once lived, and the historic Jamaica Wine House, one of the oldest pubs in the city. The Counting House was another perfect stop, serving warming winter ales that hit the spot on a chilly afternoon. We wandered down Cornhill, imagining Bob Cratchit skating on the ice, and peeked into White Lion Court, thought to have inspired Scrooge’s home. A stroll through Leadenhall Market, one of our favourite London spots at Christmas, brought festive cheer. While the original poulterer Scrooge sent the boy to fetch a turkey no longer exists, we stopped at The Lamb Tavern for a couple of pints of Young’s winter ale — the perfect reward for a few miles of walking. The walk ended at the beautifully converted Royal Exchange, where we couldn’t resist picking up some Fortnum & Mason mince pies and a glass of wine at the bar.

After returning to the campsite to relax and recharge, we ventured out the next day for a Christmas lights walk. London was dazzling — New Bond Street stood out for its sparkling displays, while the charming St Christopher’s Place (or “St Christmas Place,” as it’s known at this time of year) felt like a festive hidden gem tucked behind Selfridges. The Disney-themed windows at Selfridges, particularly the Lady and the Tramp display, were absolutely enchanting. A rare, traffic-free wander down Regent Street allowed us to soak in the lights in relative calm, though the crowds were still incredible — this was easily the busiest we’ve ever seen London!

We finished our adventure with a food market stop near Tottenham Court Road, indulging in hot pulled-duck burgers and possibly the best hot chocolate we’ve ever had. Between the ferry, the Dickensian streets, historic pubs, festive markets, and dazzling lights, our London Christmas adventure was full of excitement, magic, and joy.

London has a way of feeling familiar yet surprising, and during the festive season, it’s simply unforgettable. Having said that. This year was the busiest by far and we regretted taking Jazz the Dog. Thankfully we had his carrier which made it easier but we won’t be doing it again at Xmas with Jazz.

From hidden alleys to iconic markets, from ferry rides to glittering streets, this trip however reminded us why we love exploring our capital city — especially at Christmas.

A Night Away in Southwold

It felt so good to be back out in Gandalf the VW—especially for a trip we’d booked a while ago. The past couple of months have been a mix of ups and downs as we’ve navigated Jazz’s stroke and the realities of an elderly dog, so this night away felt especially needed.

In the run-up to the trip, everything seemed to hang on a knife edge. Storm Claudia hit… and Jazz had a second stroke. Thankfully he bounced back within 24 hours. The day before we were due to leave, relentless rain and wind battered us, and the forecast promised more of the same for Saturday.

But when we woke up on Saturday morning it was just damp, and we agreed we should still go. We needed a change of scenery, and Southwold has plenty of lovely pubs—no need to be outside much anyway.

Arriving & Settling In

We’d booked Southwold Caravan Site, a great location—slightly pricey at £42 a night, but with hard standing, electric, good shower rooms, and an easy walk into town.

We arrived at 1 p.m. and were allowed straight in (official check-in is 2 p.m., which feels a bit late). Ten minutes later we were set up, and twenty minutes after that we were sitting in our first pub.

The Red Lion

We had sausage rolls and a pint in The Red Lion before making our way to our favourite—The Lord Nelson.

The Lord Nelson & Fish and Chips

We walked down the sea front to The Lord Nelson for a quick pint of Adnams Old Ale. Our fave!

By then the drizzle had stopped, so we grabbed fish and chips from The Little Fish & Chip Shop, which must surely be one of the prettiest chippies in the country.

Their fish and chips are absolutely delicious, as is their homemade tartare sauce. Everything is cooked fresh, and you’re given a buzzer for when it’s ready.

While we waited for our order, Lydia zipped down to the Adnams shop for a gin-in-a-tin and a bottle of Kobold lager for Keith. We sat overlooking the sea, washing down our lunch while enjoying the view.

Back to the Fire

We then headed back to The Lord Nelson to enjoy the glorious open fire and a couple of pints of our favourite winter ale—Old Ale. Keith also tried amount of Yuletide.

After that we popped into the Adnams shop to stock up for Christmas and finished the afternoon with a drink at The Sole Bay Inn.

Southwold is full of independent shops and is unbelievably dog-friendly. It really is the perfect place for a winter escape.

Evening at the Harbour Inn

After a quick freshen up in Gandalf, we walked about fifteen minutes in the opposite direction toward the harbour. Even though it was pitch black, it felt atmospheric, with the tinkering of the boat masts all around us. We passed some delicious-looking fresh fish shacks (next time!) and eventually reached the quaint and historic Harbour Inn.

The menu was fantastic—almost too fantastic. We had to seriously talk ourselves out of ordering everything. In the end we chose the Suffolk smokies: smoked haddock in a rich cheese sauce with bread for dipping. Pure comfort. Keith had the haddock and leek chowder, also absolutely delicious.

Next time, we’ll be trying the fish pie, the smoked haddock and chips, and—let’s be honest—the smokies again.

The Perfect End

Full to bursting and merry on ale, we wandered back to Gandalf for an early night, serenaded by the sound of crashing winter waves.

Perfection. We’ll be back. Perhaps every month 😂

Campsite details: https://southwoldcamping.com

Open March- end of November

A Couple of Nights in York – An Autumn Adventure

We’d barely unpacked our hand luggage from Iceland before we were back on the road again. With the rest of half term stretching ahead and some sunshine on the forecast, it didn’t take long to decide: we were off on another adventure in Gandalf, our trusty VW campervan.

A Quick Escape to York

York was calling — it’s one of those cities we never get tired of exploring. We’d actually planned to visit a few weeks earlier, but our beloved pooch had suffered a stroke. Thankfully, he’s made a full recovery — what a little soldier! 🐾

Every time we go to York, we end up staying somewhere new. This time we booked into Willow Caravan Park, a Caravan and Motorhome Club CL site on the outskirts of the city. It’s a brilliant find — with electric hook-up, showers, and even a bus stop right outside. Perfect for autumn camping.

💷 Cost: £24 per night (October 2025)

🚌 Location: Wigginton Road, York YO32 2RH

🚍 Transport: Bus stop right outside (Number 40 into York city centre)

At £24 a night, it’s also a real bargain compared to most other options in York — the main C&MC Club site currently comes in at a whopping £75 per night!

Ale, Cheese & Chilled Evenings

The journey north was smooth, and by mid-afternoon we were sat outside Gandalf with an ale in hand and a baked cheese dipping bowl bubbling away — simple but perfect.

Dinner was a homemade spaghetti Bolognese from the freezer, and we spent a cosy night relaxing in our happy place, feeling very content.

Hunting Ghosts in the Garden

The next morning, we caught the number 40 bus straight from the campsite into the city centre and headed for the York Visitor Information Centre to pick up maps for the Ghosts in the Garden Trail — one of York’s most creative seasonal events.

There are 60 ghostly sculptures scattered across 27 locations, and we managed to track down about 47 of them! We started around 10:45am and wrapped up at 6pm, when the light started to fade and the ghosts became too tricky to spot.

The sculptures are hauntingly beautiful — made from mesh and wire, semi-transparent so they appear to hover in place. Each one is unique and thoughtfully linked to its surroundings: the Nurse giving an injection at the old hospital, the Judge outside the Judges Court, and many more.

The trail also led us into hidden corners of York we might never have found otherwise — peaceful courtyards, cobbled lanes, and tucked-away gardens.

💡 Tip: The trail is free and runs annually around Halloween. Start early if you want to find them all before dark!

Ghostly Pubs & Proper Yorkshire Comfort Food

Of course, no trip to York would be complete without a few pub stops! We refuelled along the way with Old Peculier ale, Yorkshire pudding turkey roast wraps, and hearty sausage and mash — proper comfort food for a crisp autumn day.

There’s something about York in October — the mix of golden leaves, gothic architecture, and ghostly goings-on makes it the perfect autumn getaway.

Final Thoughts

Our short break in York was just what we needed — relaxed, atmospheric, and full of little surprises.

The Ghosts in the Garden trail is completely free and usually runs every year around Halloween, so if you’re looking for something a bit different to do in York next autumn, we can’t recommend it enough.

Sometimes the best trips are the ones you don’t overthink — just pack up, head off, and see where the road (and Gandalf!) takes you. 🚐🍂

Cycling the High Peak Trail, Derbyshire – The Perfect End to Our Trip

It was time to wave goodbye to our beloved Scotland after almost four weeks of exploring its wild beauty. It was bittersweet leaving behind the lochs, mountains, and winding roads, but before heading home, we decided on one last hurrah.

And what better place to finish than going full circle and returning to the Peak District?

A Stop at Middleton Top

From our final stop in Scotland, We made our way to Middleton Top campsite near Matlock, an ideal spot for cycling the High Peak Trail. This 17.5-mile route is a disused railway line—the world’s first railway, in fact! Today, it’s been transformed into a fantastic traffic-free cycle path, weaving through the rolling Derbyshire Dales.

We rolled into the campsite just after 2:15pm, and by 3pm we were already pedalling. Conveniently, the trail runs directly behind the site—no faff, just hop on and go!

On the High Peak Trail

The ride was an absolute joy. Smooth, steady paths and glorious open views made it easy to lose ourselves in the scenery. By the end of the afternoon, we had clocked up 30 miles, a satisfying distance for our last big adventure of the trip.

Of course, we couldn’t resist a pub stop at one end of the trail—and another when we got back. After all, a good pint always tastes better after a long cycle!

Winding Down

As the sun set on our final day, we tucked into a hearty plate of campervan sausage and mash—the perfect comfort food after a day on the bike in cooler temperatures. It felt like the perfect full stop to an incredible few weeks on the road.

Scotland gave us endless memories, but the High Peak Trail was the ideal way to round off our travels. A little slice of cycling heaven in the heart of Derbyshire.

High Peak Highlights:

Middleton Top campsite – a good base location wise for the trail. Campsite has showers but they were ratty and dirty, toilets and a washing up area but no electric. £20pn. Very unlevel and if it had been full, also a small space. We didn’t really like it and wouldn’t return.

High Peak Trail – traffic-free, smooth, and scenic Derbyshire Dales views – glorious all the way – 30 miles cycled in one afternoon 🚴

Pub stops (because balance!) Royal Oak at Hurdlow (would eat here next time!) and The Rising Sun at Middleton Top

Campervan sausage & mash to finish- perfect!

Dumfries & Galloway: From Flying Boats to Shooting Stars

Night 23: From Castles to Flying Boats

From our site near Culzean Castle, we carried on south along the coast, passing through Turnberry just as the VP of the USA was visiting the golf resort. The place was buzzing with police and Secret Service, which made for quite the unexpected journey!

We stopped for supplies at Lidl in Ayr before heading to our first night in Dumfries and Galloway. Night 23 found us at the former RAF Wig Bay base, near Stranraer, parked right on one of the old aircraft pads ✈️. For £10, it felt pretty special to camp on a piece of history—especially as history and aviation nerds!

Can you spot Gandalf on the bottom right?

Each campervan gets its own “plane spot,” which makes sense when you realise the Sunderland Flying Boats once based here had a wingspan of 34 metres. Plenty of room for a van! Keefy got the drone out and captured some brilliant shots of the old airfield, which really added to the atmosphere of the place.

The afternoon was blissful—moules for lunch, time to relax, and the novelty of decent mobile signal after being offline for a while. Later we cooked Spanish chicken with rice as the sun went down, watching ferries sail back and forth from Stranraer and Cairnryan. It was a gorgeous evening: a simple meal, a fiery sunset, and a night spent under the stars at a site full of character.

(Privately owned, CAMpRA-accredited aire)

Night 24: The Beach Field That Wasn’t Quite Paradise

Our stop for night 24 had been recommended to me on the VW Camperchicks Facebook page: a privately owned field, no facilities at all—not even a tap—but perched right on the beach with views to die for.

Just before the Mull of Galloway lighthouse, the southernmost point in Scotland, the drive down was breathtaking. Rolling green fields, single-track roads, and the sea sparkling under blue skies—it reminded us of Devon, only wilder.

We chose our pitch, both ignoring a niggling sense that something felt “off.” Seduced by the view from our door, we swam in the sea, sipped drinks in the sunshine, and enjoyed a fish BBQ, pretending we were somewhere in Greece.

But by evening, the cracks showed. With no marked pitches or warden, vans kept squeezing into every inch of space. Families spread out noisily, one van tried to park so close we couldn’t open our door, and worst of all, we watched people digging holes just metres away to bury their waste.

The final straw came at 11pm when a full-timer cranked up a huge speaker system and blasted awful music—before switching to wolves howling on repeat—until 4am. No sleep, just frustration. Our little paradise had become a nightmare.

The next morning, bleary-eyed, we packed up. I suspect outside peak season this spot might be idyllic, but on a Friday night in August, during a heatwave, it was a disaster.

Cost: £2.50 pppn, cash to the farmer at 9pm Facilities: None

Day 25: Trusting Our Instincts Again

Determined to reset, we drove to the Mull of Galloway lighthouse and wandered the dramatic headland—the true southern tip of Scotland. The views were everything: lush pastures dotted with dairy cows, rugged cliffs, twisting lanes, and the glittering Irish Sea.

Despite intending to head inland to a campsite, we had to admit- we weren’t ready to leave the coast just yet. The weather was glorious. Exceptional even. On our way onto the peninsular, we’d spotted a council-designated overnight parking spot just outside a caravan club site—free, and right by the water. We agreed to drop in but this time we promised to listen to our instincts. Our new neighbours welcomed us warmly and assured us it was peaceful. And it was.

We spent the day doing very little—napping, reading, watching the sea. Later, neighbours returned from a kayak trip with sixteen mackerel and kindly offered us a couple. We declined, not knowing how to fillet them (something we instantly regretted—fish-gutting practice is now firmly on our autumn to-do list!).

That night was wonderfully quiet, and in the morning we woke to the most beautiful sight: sea views stretching out beyond our window, a hot cup of tea in hand, and not a sound but the waves. Bliss.

Nights 26 & 27: Inland to Mossend CL

Sadly, despite quite fancying a second night on our aire, our leisure battery forced us inland in search of EHU. We were three nights off EHU now and the weather was hot so the fridge was struggling.

The drive down the Dumfries coast was lovely and scenic, and after an hour we turned inland towards Castle Douglas. We’d booked Mossend, a little CL between Castle Douglas and Kirkcudbright. With just five pitches tucked down a country lane, it was a perfect, tranquil base.

After setting up, we cycled 13 miles return to Castle Douglas and Threave Nature Reserve and Castle. Castle Douglas itself was underwhelming, but the ruined Threave Castle and its surrounding wetlands were worth the visit. Had we more time, we’d have added Threave Gardens too. (National Trust)

That evening, after a BBQ in the blazing sunshine, Keith nudged me awake at midnight with: “The night sky’s worth a look.” Stepping outside, I was stunned. The Milky Way blazed across the sky, shooting stars arced above us—it felt like the whole universe was on display. I even managed to capture a photo on my iPhone with a 30-second exposure, which I’m ridiculously proud of!

We stayed another night, making the most of Mossend (£15pn with EHU, water and waste). With our awning up and the Joolca hot tap running, it felt like home.

The next day we cycled into Kirkcudbright (13 miles return along National Cycle network 7)—a complete contrast to Castle Douglas. This little harbour town is bursting with colour, charm, and history. We followed a Wicker Man filming trail, wandered Broughton House and Garden (once home to artist E.A. Hornel), and loved how dog-friendly it all was—Jazz was even given a treat or two!

We’d hoped to enjoy fresh seafood from a harbour shack, but as it was Monday, everywhere was closed. So we ended up having to have a Coop meal deal each – at least with a sea view. Not quite the seafood feast we’d imagined, but memorable all the same. We did enjoy a drink in the Mason Arms.

Farewell to Scotland

And just like that, our 3.5 weeks in Scotland have come to an end. From the West Highland Way and Ben Nevis, to the Isle of Mull, Ayrshire, and now Dumfries and Galloway, it’s been a trip that surpassed every expectation. The weather has been kind, the landscapes endlessly varied, and our love for this country has only deepened.

We’ve time for one last adventure before heading home—so stay tuned to see where we land next.

Until next time

Cycling, Castles & Coastlines: An Ayrshire Adventure

Monday

We left Mull at lunchtime, restocked the fridge, and set off towards Loch Earn. The drive took us through wet and wild weather, but, as if on cue, the rain stopped and blue skies broke through the moment we arrived at our campsite.

Without wasting time, we unloaded the bikes and found a nearby disused railway trail. This linked to the Rob Roy Way along the old Callander railway, climbing into the hills above the A82. The views were spectacular, with the highlight being the beautiful Glen Ogle viaduct. We clocked up 13 miles on the bikes, and had time allowed, we could have ridden on to Killin in one direction or Callander in the other.

The campsite was a gem — right on the edge of Loch Earn, a C&MC CL site with electric hook-up, shower, and toilet (£30 per night). It’s also based at a boat hire and trout farm. We had the entire place to ourselves, and the evening was spent outdoors by the fire, marvelling at how different the weather was compared to the journey in.

Tuesday – Into Ayrshire

We continued south, crossing into Ayrshire and stopping in Ayr to visit the Robert Burns Birthplace Museum and his actual birthplace. Both were fascinating, as was the picturesque Brig o’ Doon, immortalised in his poem Tam o’ Shanter.

The bikes came out again for a loop along the Ayr Coastal Path, following another disused railway and passing through the Alloway railway tunnel — an unexpected highlight with its walls covered in colourful murals.

From there, we headed to our campsite for the next two nights: Thomason Farm, opposite Culzean Castle. This C&CC CS site offered lovely views towards Arran, walking access to the castle, EHU, basic but functional facilities, and waste disposal (£20 per night).

Dinner was venison burgers on the Cadac and a relaxed evening accompanied by a stunning sunset.

Wednesday – Sunshine & Castles

The weather was perfect for our activities lined up for today – After a morning doing laundry – hand washing- we made our way down the track from the campsite for a visit to Culzean Castle. It’s perched dramatically on the Ayrshire cliffs overlooking the Firth of Clyde and a sight to behold. We spent several hours exploring the castle and the grounds- making very good use of our National Trust Membership. It’s also been used as a filming location for both The Wicker Man and The Queen. Well worth a trip.

The afternoon was spent sunbathing back at the van before enjoying steak night, accompanied by a bottle of Pape — a thoughtful gift from some of my students — and fresh potatoes from the very farm we were staying on.

It’s been a wonderful few days, and next we’re looking forward to following the coastline further to explore Dumfries and Galloway.

Isle of Mull – Wild Roads, Windswept Camps, and a Dream Come True

After leaving Fort William, our plan was simple: take the Corran Ferry, then head towards Lochaline for the regular, no-reservations ferry to Mull.

Unfortunately, the Corran Ferry was out of action for repairs, which sent us on a long but stunning detour — over 60 miles of winding single-track roads. It was slow going, but the scenery made it worthwhile, with lochs shimmering in the sun and even a majestic stag appearing along the way. We even got to see Fort William from the other side of the loch!

By the time we reached the Lochaline ferry, we’d missed the morning sailings, so we caught the first crossing after lunch. Just £16 for the motorhome, two adults, and a dog — and 18 minutes later we rolled onto the Isle of Mull.

Fidden Farm – Front Row to Paradise

From the ferry, it was another two hours of single-track driving before we reached Fidden Farm Campsite. This no-reservations spot is vast, right on the water’s edge, with jaw-dropping sea views. We managed to bag a front-row pitch and couldn’t believe our luck.

It’s simple camping — no electric hook-up — but it does have showers, toilets, and a washing-up area. If you’re happy to go off-grid, it’s the perfect base. The wind was howling, but we were under clear blue skies, so nothing could dampen our spirits. Dinner that night was local beef burgers with new potatoes and salad — delicious followed by a stunning sunset.

Friday – A Slow Day in Fionnphort

We declared it a duvet day, staying in bed until after 11 reading and recharging, before cooking up a hearty brunch.

Then we wandered the mile or so into Fionnphort, a tiny village with a shop, pub, craft stores, and the ferry terminal for the Isle of Iona.

We enjoyed a pint and a Tobermory whisky in the pub, booked a trip to Staffa for a couple of days time , and strolled back for a Scottish cheese board, another dram, and chicken fajitas for dinner. We were exceptionally chilled here!

Saturday – Cycling to Iona

The morning started with a gentle bike ride along a loop from the campsite to Fionnphort, almost entirely on quiet lanes or off-road tracks.

From there, we boarded the 10-minute ferry to Iona — £5 return per person, free for bikes and dogs. With just 170 residents and no tourist cars allowed, Iona is peaceful and green, its coastline scattered with white sand beaches. The hills have a rugged beauty, a little like the Peak District.

We explored the island, browsed the small larder for local treats (including a small bottle of Iona gin), and enjoyed drinks in the Argyll Hotel’s beer garden, which might just have the best beer garden view in Scotland. On returning to Mull, we grabbed haddock and chips from the Creel Seafood Bar — without a doubt the best fish and chips we’ve had.

Sunday – Staffa: A Lifelong Wish

It was hard to leave Fidden Farm — £12 per person per night felt like a bargain for somewhere this special — but we had one more adventure before totally leaving the area.

Leaving Gandalf in Fionnphort, we boarded a Staffa Tours boat to the Isle of Staffa. They welcome dogs, and on the way, we spotted a pod of dolphins.

As we approached Fingal’s Cave, the crew played an extract from Mendelssohn’s Hebrides Overture — music I’ve loved since A-level music class over 20 years ago. I’ll admit, I cried. A lot!

Landing on Staffa, we explored the cave, its towering basalt columns echoing with the crash of waves. The geology is similar to the Giant’s Causeway, but the atmosphere is something else entirely. For me, it was utterly magical. During the June – July this is a great spot for watching puffins. Although this makes it more complicated with taking dogs during this period. Today however we did see a lone puffin on the sea bobbing away. Apparently a rare sighting for this time of year. The trip to Staffa/ Fingal’s Cave was absolutely brilliant – and a huge tick off my bucket list. We wholeheartedly recommend this tour.

Tobermory & Farewell Mull

Once back on Mull, we drove north to Tobermory, with its colourful harbourfront houses. After a look around we picked up some Tobermory gin and whisky, then continued to Salen Bay Campsite for our final night.

Salen Bay campsite isn’t quite our cup of tea, however it was always going to struggle after such an idyllic time at Fidden. There are views over the sea and the showers are hot and clean. However our pitch- a grass pitch with electric- it’s very uneven but worse- is close to a party of people in tents and there is just not much room between us – plus they’re loud! Also we’re getting fed up with people totally disregarding our pitch space by using it as a cut through to the nearby amenities block. Had we have been sat outside with the bbq going we’d have likely had to have said something but as it happens we’re cosy in the van so not such a problem.

We needed electric tonight though and it’s raining so we can’t complain- we’re plugged in, warm and had sausage and mash for tea! There are however some nice pitches on the site – the electric hard standing look nicer than the grass pitch we opted for. It’s close to the ferry ports so works well for a first or last stop.

Loch views when the weather is better to the far left.

Mull gave us everything we hoped for — and more. Wild beauty, wonderful wildlife, and one of the most scenic spots we’ve camped at. The wind may have been relentless at times, but it kept the midges away. We’re leaving as the weather turns, following the sunshine elsewhere else, but Mull has left its mark and I’m gutted to be leaving.

Fort William – Part Two: A Surprise Date with Ben Nevis

Funny how things work out sometimes.

Literally seconds after hitting publish on our last blog post, we opened the curtains… and there it was. Blue skies. Sunshine. That kind of rare Highland weather that makes you stop and say, “Shame we’re not doing Ben Nevis today, the weather’s beautiful.”

Cue a solid half-hour of “Should we? Could we? Are we actually doing this?”

One quick chat with the campsite confirmed they had space for us (albeit on a different pitch), and just like that—it felt like a sign. The weather gods were saying, “It’s your time…”

So we moved the van, threw together a packed lunch, grabbed our gear, and by 9:45am, we were on the trail.

Let’s not sugarcoat it—the hike up Ben Nevis is brutal. There were at least three points where I nearly turned back, and it took every ounce of stubbornness I could summon to keep going.

Keith and Jazz handled the climb better than I did, but after four long hours, we reached the summit—touching the famous trig point at the top of the UK’s highest mountain.

Clouds had rolled in over the summit by then, so the views from the peak were a little grey—but the rest of the way up and down was absolutely stunning. Mountains, valleys, lochs… it was the Highlands at their best.

The way down didn’t offer much relief on our legs- That loose stone path is a killer on tired legs, and by the end, we were done in. But after three hours of cautious descent, we were finally back on solid, flat ground.

And let me tell you—the beer at the Ben Nevis Inn has never tasted so good.

So that’s it: Ben Nevis, officially ticked off the bucket list.

Tomorrow we can move onwards with no regrets whatsoever about our time in Fort William.