Easter 2026
We knew it was going to be an early start—but we didn’t expect it to begin quite like this.
Parked up at The Valiant Sailor, a handy pub stop, just minutes from the Eurotunnel Le Shuttle, we’d set ourselves up perfectly for the first crossing of the day.
At 3am, as we went to drive off the carpark, that plan unravelled.
The campervan battery was completely flat—caused, in one of the more ridiculous travel mishaps to date, by a badly placed bra (caught on the indicator lever!). What followed was a groggy, slightly panicked scramble in the dark, a kind stranger stepping in to help (he didn’t have much choice – we practically blocked the road as he drove past at 03:15, and we begged him!) and a last-minute jump start that got us to the terminal with barely a minute to spare.
We made it onto the train, but the relief was short-lived. Sitting there, finally still, one thought lingered: what if it doesn’t start again when we get to France?
Thankfully, it did, probably because we razzed it up and down the M20 for 10 miles before checking into the Eurotunnel! We rolled off in Calais, crisis behind us, and pointed the van south.
Resetting in Freiburg
The original plan had been ambitious, but with both of us still recovering from chest infections, it quickly became clear we needed to ease off and not travel so far on day 1. So we adjusted and by mid-afternoon, we arrived in Freiburg im Breisgau, right on the edge of the Black Forest. It was exactly what we needed.
We spent the afternoon wandering aimlessly through the old town—cobbled streets, quiet squares, nothing rushed. Dinner was enjoyed in a restaurant, Black Forest sausages, schnitzel and of course a Black Forest gateaux, and afterwards we headed back to our base, Camping Hirzberg, a peaceful site just outside the centre that felt like a proper reset after the chaos of the morning.
Through the Black Forest to Füssen
The next day began slowly, no alarms, no urgency— we genuinely weren’t sure whether to stay another night or crack on a bit further south. Numerous cups of tea later, a plan was formulated and we hit the road- a journey which turned into one of the best drives of the trip.
We wound our way up and through the Black Forest, dropped towards Lake Constance, and climbed again into Bavaria. The roads were quiet and easy, the scenery constantly shifting.
By mid-afternoon, we reached Füssen. With snow-capped mountains in the distance and clear skies above, it felt properly alpine. We parked up at a stellplatz on the outskirts of the town- one which had showers and electric available- wandered into the small historic centre, and enjoyed the calm that comes with travelling out of season—quiet streets, no crowds, and no pressure to do anything other than explore at our own pace. We liked Fussen, with its colourful buildings and striking castle sitting above the high street. Dinner that evening was back at Gandalf, although we were tempted by a family run Gaushaus/Beer House – but it was cash only and we hadn’t enough on us!
Snow to Sunshine
We woke the next morning to heavy snowfall—thick, steady, and settling fast. It didn’t take long to decide this morning: it was time to move south, and fast!
Heading south, we crossed from Germany into Austria, then Slovenia, and on into Croatia in a single push. It was one of those drives where the landscape—and the weather—changes quickly. Most notably was entering the border tunnel in Austria in a Blizzard and exiting a few KMs further on into Slovenia and gorgeous blue skies!
By early evening, we arrived in Rovinj, swapping snow boots for sunshine in the space of a day.
Croatia Stops
In Rovinj, we stayed at Porton Hideaway Campsite, an easy coastal walk from the old town. Rovinj is compact and full of charm—colourful facades, narrow cobbled streets, and a relaxed, slightly Italian feel. Wandering the small alleys and streets was delightful.
A highlight here was finding Vino Vigneto, a tucked-away wine bar run by a British couple. Great local wine, simple but local food, and a genuinely warm welcome—it’s exactly the sort of place we were in the mood for.
From there, we continued to Pula, where the standout attraction is the Pula Arena. Walking through such a well-preserved Roman amphitheatre made it a memorable stop. We also enjoyed the other Roman ruins dotted within the city. The Roman Forum was atmospheric and a great place for a drink.
Our campsite for Pula was Arena Stoja. We’d booked a front row sea view and the view was lovely. We had a private little glade and a rocky beach just below us, perfect for sundowners. The facilities block here was excellent with amazing showers.
Following our two night stop at Pula, we headed further down the coast to Zadar, staying at Falkensteiner Premium Camping Zadar. What was meant to be a short 2 night stop turned into 4 nights. The combination of good facilities, sea views, and time to properly rest made it hard to leave, despite the hefty price tag. We opted for most expensive category of pitch – Premium Diamond Zone . Whilst we enjoyed the view, pitches did not have individual water or electric points as described. The pitch we’d originally booked, 116- was a disaster with two huge tree trunks prevented even our small van to position on! Lucky we were able to swap to no. 115! It served us well for our needs at the time though. During our time there, we explored the old town which was about 2 miles cycle, enjoyed delicious home cooked meals with a sea view, and spent time at the Sea Organ, listening to the rhythms of the sea.
A Different Kind of Trip
This trip felt different from the start. We had a worrying situation unfolding at home, which meant it was hard to fully switch off, even in the most beautiful places.
Instead, it became a balance—trying to make the most of where we were, while also dealing with that constant pull to travel back home. Add in the fact we were both unwell with chest infections, and there were moments of real homesickness mixed in with the highlights.
In a way, the slower pace we naturally fell into worked in our favour. Fewer big plans, more time to pause, rest, and just take things as they came.
Turning North
Following our time in Zadar, we made the decision to not continue further south, instead making an earlier return home. We decided to break the journey into 3, with stops that gave us something to enjoy along the way.
Our first stop was Lake Bled. We arrived in the afternoon and headed straight out to walk the loop around the lake. The path is easy and well maintained, circling clear water with mountain views the whole way round. Despite it being a busy Easter weekend, it never felt overwhelming, and stopping halfway for a drink turned it into a relaxed, easy-going wander.
Our Campsite, Kamping Bled, was a good base, being within 2 mins walk of the lakeside was perfect for our one night stay.
Austria: Castles and Alpine Villages
The next morning began with a quick practical stop at the local vets, for Jazz’s return to England paperwork and tapeworm pill, before crossing into Austria, and then onto Hohenwerfen Castle.
Perched high above the valley, it’s impossible to miss from the motorway as you approach Werfen. Movie fans like Keith, will instantly recognise this location as the castle from Where Eagles Dare. We took the funicular up and spent time in the courtyard, taking in wide views across the mountains. Keith took the guided tour of the inside, whilst I enjoyed some time reading my book and sitting in the sunshine with Jazz. We thoroughly enjoyed our visit and it was a big bucket list tick for Keith!
That evening, we stayed near Lofer at Camping Grubhof. The village itself is small but full of character, with a traditional square and dramatic alpine surroundings. It was also a filming location for Where Eagles Dare. We spent the afternoon cycling into Lofen, taking in the scenery and a beer or two, and enjoying the Austrian views. The campsite is beautifully located and well equipped, even if it comes at a higher price than most. Be aware that all the bars and restaurants in Lower at our time of visit were cash only.
Final Stop: Bacharach
Our last night on the road was in Bacharach, northern Germany, on the banks of the Rhine.
It’s a small, quiet town, and when we arrived, it felt almost completely still. We wandered through the empty streets, found somewhere for a drink and dinner- interestingly the very same place we visited last time we were here 10 years ago- it is like a ghost town in Bacharach in the evening with barely anywhere open!,Luckily the Posthof was open. Having visited before, it felt familiar—but in an easy, comforting way.
A calm and simple final stop, before the journey home.
Summary
Looking back, the trip didn’t go to plan—and that shaped it more than anything else. A rough start, being unwell, and worries from home meant we naturally slowed things down and kept expectations low. Instead of trying to fit everything in, we focused on getting from place to place at a steady pace and making the most of the stops along the way. There were still plenty of highlights, but it was the simpler parts—quiet walks, easy drives, and time to rest—that stood out most. We loved being back in Europe – especially Germany, which we’ve not visited in our own van for years- Croatia was a nice surprise featuring sophisticated campsites and atmospheric towns. It wasn’t a perfect trip, but it worked for where we were at, and that was enough.
Until Next Time
