Night 23: From Castles to Flying Boats
From our site near Culzean Castle, we carried on south along the coast, passing through Turnberry just as the VP of the USA was visiting the golf resort. The place was buzzing with police and Secret Service, which made for quite the unexpected journey!
We stopped for supplies at Lidl in Ayr before heading to our first night in Dumfries and Galloway. Night 23 found us at the former RAF Wig Bay base, near Stranraer, parked right on one of the old aircraft pads ✈️. For £10, it felt pretty special to camp on a piece of history—especially as history and aviation nerds!
Each campervan gets its own “plane spot,” which makes sense when you realise the Sunderland Flying Boats once based here had a wingspan of 34 metres. Plenty of room for a van! Keefy got the drone out and captured some brilliant shots of the old airfield, which really added to the atmosphere of the place.
The afternoon was blissful—moules for lunch, time to relax, and the novelty of decent mobile signal after being offline for a while. Later we cooked Spanish chicken with rice as the sun went down, watching ferries sail back and forth from Stranraer and Cairnryan. It was a gorgeous evening: a simple meal, a fiery sunset, and a night spent under the stars at a site full of character.
(Privately owned, CAMpRA-accredited aire)
Night 24: The Beach Field That Wasn’t Quite Paradise
Our stop for night 24 had been recommended to me on the VW Camperchicks Facebook page: a privately owned field, no facilities at all—not even a tap—but perched right on the beach with views to die for.
Just before the Mull of Galloway lighthouse, the southernmost point in Scotland, the drive down was breathtaking. Rolling green fields, single-track roads, and the sea sparkling under blue skies—it reminded us of Devon, only wilder.
We chose our pitch, both ignoring a niggling sense that something felt “off.” Seduced by the view from our door, we swam in the sea, sipped drinks in the sunshine, and enjoyed a fish BBQ, pretending we were somewhere in Greece.
But by evening, the cracks showed. With no marked pitches or warden, vans kept squeezing into every inch of space. Families spread out noisily, one van tried to park so close we couldn’t open our door, and worst of all, we watched people digging holes just metres away to bury their waste.
The final straw came at 11pm when a full-timer cranked up a huge speaker system and blasted awful music—before switching to wolves howling on repeat—until 4am. No sleep, just frustration. Our little paradise had become a nightmare.
The next morning, bleary-eyed, we packed up. I suspect outside peak season this spot might be idyllic, but on a Friday night in August, during a heatwave, it was a disaster.
Cost: £2.50 pppn, cash to the farmer at 9pm Facilities: None
Day 25: Trusting Our Instincts Again
Determined to reset, we drove to the Mull of Galloway lighthouse and wandered the dramatic headland—the true southern tip of Scotland. The views were everything: lush pastures dotted with dairy cows, rugged cliffs, twisting lanes, and the glittering Irish Sea.
Despite intending to head inland to a campsite, we had to admit- we weren’t ready to leave the coast just yet. The weather was glorious. Exceptional even. On our way onto the peninsular, we’d spotted a council-designated overnight parking spot just outside a caravan club site—free, and right by the water. We agreed to drop in but this time we promised to listen to our instincts. Our new neighbours welcomed us warmly and assured us it was peaceful. And it was.
We spent the day doing very little—napping, reading, watching the sea. Later, neighbours returned from a kayak trip with sixteen mackerel and kindly offered us a couple. We declined, not knowing how to fillet them (something we instantly regretted—fish-gutting practice is now firmly on our autumn to-do list!).
That night was wonderfully quiet, and in the morning we woke to the most beautiful sight: sea views stretching out beyond our window, a hot cup of tea in hand, and not a sound but the waves. Bliss.
Nights 26 & 27: Inland to Mossend CL
Sadly, despite quite fancying a second night on our aire, our leisure battery forced us inland in search of EHU. We were three nights off EHU now and the weather was hot so the fridge was struggling.
The drive down the Dumfries coast was lovely and scenic, and after an hour we turned inland towards Castle Douglas. We’d booked Mossend, a little CL between Castle Douglas and Kirkcudbright. With just five pitches tucked down a country lane, it was a perfect, tranquil base.
After setting up, we cycled 13 miles return to Castle Douglas and Threave Nature Reserve and Castle. Castle Douglas itself was underwhelming, but the ruined Threave Castle and its surrounding wetlands were worth the visit. Had we more time, we’d have added Threave Gardens too. (National Trust)
That evening, after a BBQ in the blazing sunshine, Keith nudged me awake at midnight with: “The night sky’s worth a look.” Stepping outside, I was stunned. The Milky Way blazed across the sky, shooting stars arced above us—it felt like the whole universe was on display. I even managed to capture a photo on my iPhone with a 30-second exposure, which I’m ridiculously proud of!
We stayed another night, making the most of Mossend (£15pn with EHU, water and waste). With our awning up and the Joolca hot tap running, it felt like home.
The next day we cycled into Kirkcudbright (13 miles return along National Cycle network 7)—a complete contrast to Castle Douglas. This little harbour town is bursting with colour, charm, and history. We followed a Wicker Man filming trail, wandered Broughton House and Garden (once home to artist E.A. Hornel), and loved how dog-friendly it all was—Jazz was even given a treat or two!
We’d hoped to enjoy fresh seafood from a harbour shack, but as it was Monday, everywhere was closed. So we ended up having to have a Coop meal deal each – at least with a sea view. Not quite the seafood feast we’d imagined, but memorable all the same. We did enjoy a drink in the Mason Arms.
Farewell to Scotland
And just like that, our 3.5 weeks in Scotland have come to an end. From the West Highland Way and Ben Nevis, to the Isle of Mull, Ayrshire, and now Dumfries and Galloway, it’s been a trip that surpassed every expectation. The weather has been kind, the landscapes endlessly varied, and our love for this country has only deepened.
We’ve time for one last adventure before heading home—so stay tuned to see where we land next.
Until next time
