Starting our summer holidays with a week of cycling, campervan adventures and exploring Devon’s beautiful traffic-free trails.
Our summer holidays began with a challenge: cycling the Devon Coast to Coast, travelling from the North Devon coast all the way to Plymouth, with our e-bikes and our trusty campervan, Gandalf, along for the ride.
This blog post is a little later than planned (that’s what happens when life gets in the way of blogging!), but we wanted to share the adventure, including the routes we cycled, the places we discovered and the campsites we stayed at along the way.
Our plan was to cycle every off-road section of the Devon Coast to Coast, moving Gandalf south as we went and using the campervan as our accommodation for the week.
With our e-bikes charged, Gandalf packed to the rafters and a week of summer holiday stretching ahead of us, we set off for North Devon.
What followed was a brilliant week of traffic-free cycling, fascinating railway history, beautiful countryside, excellent local food and some lovely little campsites.
There were a few unexpected challenges along the way, including a failed e-bike battery, a puncture and an unplanned bike-shopping trip! But that’s all part of the adventure.
So, here’s a look back at how we kicked off our summer holidays with seven days of cycling across Devon.
Day 1: Ilfracombe Heritage Trail and the North Devon Coast
Our adventure began at Damage Barton campsite, just outside Ilfracombe. We chose it for its spectacular sea views and electric hook-up, which meant we could keep our e-bike batteries charged ready for the week ahead.
After settling in, we headed out on our first ride along the Ilfracombe Heritage Trail, a beautiful traffic-free route following a disused railway line.
As railway enthusiasts, we loved the combination of cycling and history. Old bridges, a tunnel and reminders of the railway’s past made this a lovely introduction to our Devon adventure.
We rode into Ilfracombe, explored the harbour and, naturally, enjoyed fish and chips by the sea before cycling back to Gandalf.
It was a leisurely start to the week, with plenty of time to enjoy the scenery and get ourselves into holiday mode.
Day 1 cycling stats
- Route: Damage Barton to Ilfracombe and the Heritage Trail
- Distance: 14 miles (there and back)
- Highlight: Cycling a former railway line all the way to the coast
Campsite review: Damage Barton, North Devon
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This was our second stay at Damage Barton, and we’ve enjoyed it on both occasions.
The views are definitely the highlight. Waking up overlooking the North Devon coast, with the gentle sound of lambs in the background, never gets old.
We particularly liked the spacious pitches, electric hook-up included in the price and the option to park sideways on the pitch to make the most of the views. The toilets and showers were clean and well maintained, and food vans visit at weekends.
Our main gripe was the charge for Wi-Fi. When you’ve already paid £39 for a pitch, paying extra for internet feels a little unnecessary, particularly when we had good mobile data anyway.
The location is excellent for exploring the area. The Ilfracombe Heritage Trail is accessible around a mile from the campsite, while on our previous visit we’d caught the bus to Ilfracombe and Woolacombe and walked to the pretty fishing village of Lee, stopping for a drink at the village pub.
Would we stay again? Absolutely. The sea views and location make this a lovely base for exploring North Devon.
Day 2: The Tarka Trail – North Devon’s Railway Heritage
After a lazy morning enjoying those sea views, it was time to move Gandalf around 45 minutes south to Weare Giffard.
We were staying at The Barton CL, approximately a mile from the Tarka Trail and conveniently positioned for exploring the route in both directions.
Our ride took us north towards Braunton before we retraced our route. As we were working our way through the off-road sections of the Devon Coast to Coast from north to south, we wanted to cover the trail systematically.
The Tarka Trail is one of the UK’s longest traffic-free cycling routes, with around 30 miles following the route of a former railway line.
And what a treat it was!
The railway history is everywhere, from beautifully restored stations and old signal boxes to railway carriages, bridges and sections of the original trackbed. We could easily have spent longer stopping to investigate all the little details along the way.
The riding was enjoyable too. Much of the trail is flat, with a tarmac surface, making it a very pleasant route through the Devon countryside, alongside rivers and across the estuary.
There were plenty of opportunities to stop and enjoy the views, as well as a couple of well-earned beer stops. 🍻
The only slight challenge was managing our e-bike batteries towards the end. We’d covered a fair distance, and we needed to nurse the remaining power carefully to make sure we got back to Gandalf!
Day 2 cycling stats
- Route: The Tarka Trail towards Braunton and back
- Distance: 36.5 miles (there and back)
- Highlight: The railway heritage along this wonderful traffic-free route
Campsite review: The Barton CL, Weare Giffard
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The Barton is a fantastic little Certificated Location for anyone planning to cycle the Tarka Trail.
Tucked away just south of Bideford, it’s around a mile from the trail and roughly halfway along its length, making it an excellent base for exploring in either direction.
The site sits alongside a working dairy farm, with beautiful countryside views and a picturesque medieval church providing the backdrop.
The owner was incredibly friendly and welcoming, and several pitches had their own picnic tables, which we made good use of during our stay.
Facilities include:
- Electric hook-up
- Wi-Fi
- Toilet, but no shower
- A choice of hardstanding or grass pitches
There’s also a bus stop nearby and a pub around a 15-minute walk away, although we didn’t manage to try it during our stay.
At £20 per night, we thought it offered excellent value for money.
Would we stay again? Definitely. It’s peaceful, friendly and ideally located for cycling the Tarka Trail. A real CL gem.
Day 3: The Tarka Trail – E-bike Troubles and an Unexpected Wildlife Encounter
We’d planned another straightforward day of cycling, heading south along the Tarka Trail to Meeth before returning to Gandalf at The Barton CL.
The morning, however, had other ideas.
First, Keith’s e-bike battery failed. Then, just two minutes later, I got a puncture!
Thankfully, we found a bike shop along the trail that could replace my inner tube. Unfortunately, Keith couldn’t hire a replacement bike because neither of us had any ID with us.
So he did what any determined cyclist would do: rode the full 30 miles without any electric assistance! Absolute trooper. 💪
About six miles into the ride, we came across a poorly fox cub beside the trail. It was clearly struggling, so we stopped to help, contacting the RSPCA while it drank all of Jazz’s water and half of Keith’s.
Thankfully, the cub eventually found the strength to move off the trail and into the undergrowth.
It was one of those unexpected moments that reminds you there’s more to an adventure than the route you’ve planned.
Once we were back on our bikes, we continued towards Meeth through peaceful Devon countryside. There was a steady climb in the middle to get us working a little harder, but otherwise it was another lovely stretch of the Tarka Trail.
We finished with a well-earned pint at The Bull & Dragon, North Devon’s Cider Pub of the Year 2025, before heading back to Weare Giffard.
Despite the battery failure and puncture, we finished the ride having covered the traffic-free Tarka Trail in both directions over our two days of cycling.
Day 3 highlight: Completing the Tarka Trail despite the mechanical mishaps, with a memorable stop to help the fox cub along the way.
Rest Day: A New E-bike, Local Produce and Lydford Gorge
After our eventful ride, it was time to leave Weare Giffard and move further south.
But first, we needed to sort out Keith’s e-bike.
What began as a quick search for a replacement battery turned into a tour of bike shops. We started in Bideford, then retraced our steps to Barnstaple to try two more shops.
Keith’s Aldi e-bike was around five years old, and replacement batteries were proving impossible to find. We were beginning to think it had reached the end of the road.
Thankfully, Planet Cycles came to the rescue. Two hours later, Keith had a brand-new e-bike!
It was a rather expensive development in our summer holiday budget, but at least we could continue our adventure. 🚴
With the bike problem solved, we headed towards Okehampton, stopping at Brickyard Farm Shop just before town.
Known for its award-winning sausages, it was exactly the sort of place we like discovering on our travels. We stocked up on sausages, beef and Stilton burgers, Devon apples and local cheese.
Next, we visited Lydford Gorge. We’d last been there around 12 years ago, so it was lovely to return. The recent dry weather meant it wasn’t quite as green or dramatic as we remembered, but it was still well worth visiting.
We finished the day with a pint at The Castle Inn in Lydford, where we had a rather strange paranormal experience. That’s a story for another blog post!
Then it was off to our next campsite, ready for the next stage of the ride.
Day 4: The Granite Way and Lydford Gorge
With Keith’s new bike ready for action, we were back on the trail.
We cycled from our campsite just north of Lydford towards Okehampton before retracing our route along the Granite Way.
The views across Dartmoor were spectacular, and the smooth tarmac made for an enjoyable ride.
We met plenty of other people tackling the Devon Coast to Coast, although cycling isn’t quite as sociable as walking a long-distance trail. Mostly, it was a quick hello as we passed each other!
Lunch was our first proper Devon pasty of the trip, which was thoroughly deserved after our ride.
We then headed back to Lydford Gorge, managed by the National Trust, to explore the Devil’s Cauldron.
This was one of the highlights of the week.
The steep woodland paths, towering cliffs and rushing water made it feel almost as though we’d stepped into a rainforest. The Devil’s Cauldron itself is tucked deep within the gorge, and the walk through the dramatic landscape was well worth the effort.
Just be prepared for the climb back out!
Afterwards, we enjoyed another pint at The Castle Inn before returning to Gandalf for a dinner made with our farm shop finds: local sausage, apple and cider stew, followed by a Devonshire cheeseboard.
All enjoyed with those lovely views from the campsite.
Campsite review: The Knowle CL, Lydford
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The Knowle is a wonderfully peaceful Caravan and Motorhome Club Certificated Location, perfectly placed for exploring the Granite Way and Dartmoor.
It’s a simple site, with electric hook-up, a water tap and an Elsan disposal point. There are no marked pitches; instead, you have a spacious field with breathtaking views across the moors.
The Granite Way cycle trail is around a mile away, while the beautiful village of Lydford is about two miles away.
From here, you can explore Lydford Gorge, visit the ruins of Lydford Castle or enjoy a meal and a local pint at the excellent Castle Inn.
We loved the tranquillity, the open space and the incredible views. It’s the sort of campsite where you can sit outside with a drink and simply enjoy being there.
Facilities: Electric hook-up, water and Elsan disposal.
Price: £20 per night.
Would we stay again? Absolutely. A peaceful, uncomplicated campsite in a fantastic location.
Day 5: Drake’s Trail, Brunel’s Tunnel and Dartmoor Ponies
After a peaceful night at The Knowle, we moved Gandalf around 25 minutes further south towards Plymouth, setting up at Sortridge Farm CL.
We couldn’t resist another farm shop stop along the way. Lydford Farm Shop provided what was quite possibly the best pasty we’d ever eaten!
By lunchtime, we were ready to explore Drake’s Trail.
The route follows sections of former railway lines between Tavistock and Plymouth, including railway infrastructure associated with the area’s fascinating transport history.
One of the highlights was cycling through the impressive Brunel Tunnel at Grenofen. Built as part of Isambard Kingdom Brunel’s South Devon Railway, it was a real treat for two railway enthusiasts.
South of Yelverton, the views across Dartmoor were sweeping and beautiful. We then joined the former Plym Valley Railway route towards Plymouth, where a sculpture trail added another interesting feature to the ride.
And then there were the Dartmoor ponies!
Seeing them out in the wild was a real highlight, although Jazz wasn’t quite as impressed as we were. 🐴🐶
We covered 28 miles from the campsite and back, finishing another fantastic day on the bikes.
Campsite review: Sortridge Farm CL, Horrabridge
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Sortridge Farm CL was a good base for exploring Drake’s Trail, with access to the cycle route around a mile away via quiet country roads at Grenofen.
The pitches are huge, giving everyone plenty of space, and the site was peaceful throughout our stay.
Access is through a working farmyard, so there is some farm traffic noise. We didn’t have any contact with the owner during our stay, which wasn’t a problem for us, although the site felt a little tired in places and could benefit from some additional upkeep. We also had to pick up a few dog messes around our pitch.
Facilities: Electric hook-up, water and waste disposal. No toilet or shower.
Price: £25 per night.
Would we stay again? It’s a useful, quiet base if you’re visiting specifically to cycle Drake’s Trail, although the site itself wasn’t quite as polished as our previous stops.
Day 6: Completing the Devon Coast to Coast!
And just like that, after six days of cycling, we’d reached the south coast of Devon.
Coast to coast complete! 🎉
Our final ride followed the last section of Drake’s Trail, taking us along another former railway line before opening out into beautiful National Trust parkland beside the estuary.
From there, we cycled into Plymouth and finished our Devon Coast to Coast adventure at the historic harbour.
It was a brilliant way to end the week. We’d tackled traffic-free trails, explored spectacular countryside, discovered fascinating railway history and enjoyed some wonderful local food along the way.
There had been a few challenges, not least the e-bike battery failure and puncture, but we’d made it.
And we still had a little more exploring to do.
Exploring historic Plymouth
After completing the ride, we spent time exploring Plymouth, a city packed with maritime history and surprisingly good opportunities for cycling.
We visited the historic Barbican, explored the city’s naval heritage and learnt more about the Mayflower’s departure in 1620.
We also found Plymouth’s oldest pub, The Minerva, and visited the historic Black Friars Distillery, associated with Plymouth Gin, the world’s oldest working gin distillery.
Naturally, there was also time for some excellent fish and chips.
It was a lovely way to finish our time in Plymouth, combining a little sightseeing with the chance to explore a historic city on foot after so many days in the saddle.
Campsite review: Riverside Caravan Park, Plymouth
⭐⭐⭐⭐½
Riverside Caravan Park was a last-minute change to our itinerary after we realised our original campsite was much too far from the cycle trail and involved a five-mile climb on busy roads. My fault for not checking the contour lines!
Thankfully, Riverside turned out to be a great find.
The site is just half a mile from the traffic-free cycling route into Plymouth, making it an excellent base for exploring the city without having to negotiate busy roads.
The pitches were spacious, with plenty of nearby water points and electric hook-ups. The facilities were spotless, and the showers had excellent pressure and lovely hot water.
There’s a bar and restaurant on site, although we didn’t use them, and a heated outdoor swimming pool is included in the price.
We also appreciated the strict noise policy, which helped keep the site wonderfully peaceful. Despite being close to main roads, it felt tucked away among the trees, with virtually no traffic noise.
The surrounding area has plenty to offer, including a heritage railway, country park, National Trust estate and parkland. There’s also a retail park nearby for stocking up on essentials.
The downsides? At £41.50 per night, including £2.50 for Jazz, it was more expensive than we’d usually choose. Charging extra for dogs always gets my goat, and there was no Wi-Fi option while our mobile signal was patchy.
Even so, we genuinely felt we’d had good value for money by the time we left.
Facilities: Electric hook-up, toilets and showers, bar and restaurant, heated outdoor swimming pool.
Price: £41.50 per night, including the dog supplement.
Would we stay again? Yes. The location, facilities and peaceful setting made this an excellent place to finish our cycling adventure.
Day 7: One Last Ride on the Exe Estuary Trail
Although we’d completed our coast-to-coast challenge, we couldn’t resist squeezing in one final ride on our way home.
We stopped at Topsham to explore the Exe Estuary Trail, a route we’d been keen to try.
We cycled the five miles from Topsham to Exmouth before turning around and retracing our route.
The views across the estuary were fabulous for almost the entire ride. It was an easy, enjoyable route and a lovely contrast to some of the longer rides we’d completed during the week.
Topsham itself is a charming little town, perfect for a wander and one last ice cream before we joined the M5 and headed home.
It was the ideal end to an unforgettable week of cycling and exploring Devon.
