Bank Holiday Escape: Cycling the Hornsea–Hull Rail Trail 🚴‍♀️

We’re always on the lookout for a new bike trail—especially those old disused railway lines that have been transformed into scenic cycling routes. There’s something special about riding through history, and this bank holiday we discovered a gem we hadn’t come across before: the Hornsea to Hull rail trail. Even better, it gave us the perfect excuse to head north and tie in a visit with my dad and stepmum.

Campsite & First Impressions

We based ourselves at Corner House Campsite, a simple Certificated Site offering just the essentials—electric hook-up, water, and waste disposal. At £22 per night, it felt like great value, especially given its location just moments from the trail access at Great Hatfield.

We arrived around lunchtime on Friday, making a quick stop first at a nearby farm shop to stock up. With local sausages, fresh veg, ice cream, and the all-important sausage roll and pork pie secured, we were more than ready to settle in.

Coastal Ride to Hornsea

That afternoon, we set off on our bikes towards Hornsea. The sun was shining, and we wanted to make the most of it, and it felt like the perfect start to the weekend. We found a lovely pub with sea views and enjoyed a relaxed drink before heading back along the trail to our campsite.

This route is part of the Trans Pennine Trail and follows a former railway line that operated for over a century before closing in the 1960s. Along the way there are still glimpses of its past—and at the Hornsea end, most notably a beautifully converted station building that adds to the charm.

Back at Gandalf the VW campervan, we soaked up the evening sunshine, enjoying a bbq and even lit the fire pit—a perfect end to the day.

Riding into Hull

Saturday brought more sunshine, so after bacon butties, we headed in the opposite direction towards Hull.

The ride stretched about 11 miles through wide open countryside. The surface was mostly good, though a bit bumpy in places for road bikes—but nothing too off-putting. There were old platforms being reclaimed by nature, converted stations now residential houses. It was all charming and a reminder about a bygone era.

Arriving in Hull, we parked the bikes up near the Guildhall and wandered into the Old Town. It genuinely surprised us—in the best way. Cobbled streets, historic buildings, atmospheric alleys. Not how we’d imagined.

We stopped for a drink in Ye Olde House, one of the oldest dwelling in the city, now a pub, and also Ye Old Black Boy, the oldest pub in the city, before heading down to the estuary. Sitting in the sunshine overlooking the Humber, with the Humber Bridge visible in the distance, was a real highlight. Our final stop was Ye Olde White Horse—another historic spot, famously home to a skeleton displayed above the bar.

One downside? We were surprised at how many pubs weren’t dog-friendly. We were turned away from four places, which felt unusual given how welcoming most areas tend to be.

Back to Camp & A Slower Sunday

The cycle back along the traffic-free route was just as enjoyable, with a final pit stop at The Railway Inn—thankfully dog-friendly.

Dinner that evening was a simple pre-made tagine we’d brought from home, followed by an early night. By 8pm, we were completely exhausted!

Sunday brought a change in weather, so we leaned into it with a full-on slow day. A lazy morning, a proper cooked brunch, a wander around the village, and some time to read. Dinner was sausage and mash (using those farm shop sausages—delicious), followed by a film.

Final Thoughts

This trip ticked all the boxes: a brilliant cycle trail, small scale campsite, great local food- we love a farm shop!, and a mix of coast and countryside. The Hornsea–Hull rail trail is a fantastic route—rich in history, easy to navigate, and wonderfully scenic.

https://youtu.be/RfcNV8TXwxo?si=vbUIp0DUb6OTmNQY

It’s also got us thinking… could we start exploring more of the Trans Pennine Trail in sections for future getaways?

We’re very tempted.

Where did you head for the bank holiday?

Recap

campsite

Rail trail

Farm Shop

Oldest pub in Hull

Our Top 10 Campsites Close to Traffic-Free Cycling Trails 🚐🚴 (updated 2026)

If you love easy cycling from your campsite, these are some of our favourite UK spots. Each one is close to, if not ON traffic-free routes, making them perfect for relaxed rides without busy roads or complicated planning.

From old railway lines to canal paths and forest tracks, these are simple, scenic places where you can park up and head straight out on your bike.


Our Top 10 Picks

📍 Drummindon Trout Farm

Old Callander Railway 🚴‍♀️

A peaceful base with access to a classic railway-line route, ideal for easy, scenic riding.


📍 Glen Nevis Caravan Park

Caledonian Canal 🚴‍♂️

A stunning Highland setting with miles of waterside paths and dramatic scenery.


📍 Middleton Top Campsite

High Peak Trail 🚴

A great location for exploring one of Derbyshire’s most popular converted railway trails.


📍 Thurlmoor Farm

Trans Pennine Trail (Thurgoland Tunnel) 🚴‍♀️

Quiet countryside access with a section of the Trans Pennine Trail nearby, including historic tunnel sections.


📍 Lady Margaret’s Park (C&MC)

Llangollen Canal & Pontcysyllte Aqueduct 🚴‍♂️

One of the most iconic canal cycling areas in the UK, with incredible views from the aqueduct.


📍 The Station CL, Attlebridge

Marriott’s Way 🚴

A Norfolk favourite, offering long, flat riding through countryside and woodland.


📍 Whitby Holiday Park

Cinder Track 🚴‍♀️

Coastal views and easy access to the old railway line between Whitby and Robin Hoods Bay.


📍 Tarka Trail Camping

Tarka Trail 🚴‍♂️

A well-known Devon route following rivers, estuaries, and peaceful countryside.


📍 Sourton Down Campsite

Granite Way 🚴

A scenic Devon trail linking Okehampton to Lydford, ideal for relaxed riding.


📍 Black Knowl Club Site

Brockenhurst to Burley Railway Line 🚴‍♀️

Right in the heart of the New Forest with endless off-road cycling options.


🚐 Why we love these spots

All of these campsites are close to traffic-free cycling trails, meaning you can:

  • Set off straight from your pitch
  • Avoid busy roads
  • Enjoy relaxed, scenic rides
  • Explore more without driving first

They’re simple, accessible, and perfect for low-stress cycling adventures.


🚴‍♀️ Where do you like to cycle?

We’re always adding to this list as we discover new places. If you’ve got any favourite campsites near great traffic-free routes, we’d love to hear them, leave us a comment below 👇

Cycling the High Peak Trail, Derbyshire – The Perfect End to Our Trip

It was time to wave goodbye to our beloved Scotland after almost four weeks of exploring its wild beauty. It was bittersweet leaving behind the lochs, mountains, and winding roads, but before heading home, we decided on one last hurrah.

And what better place to finish than going full circle and returning to the Peak District?

A Stop at Middleton Top

From our final stop in Scotland, We made our way to Middleton Top campsite near Matlock, an ideal spot for cycling the High Peak Trail. This 17.5-mile route is a disused railway line—the world’s first railway, in fact! Today, it’s been transformed into a fantastic traffic-free cycle path, weaving through the rolling Derbyshire Dales.

We rolled into the campsite just after 2:15pm, and by 3pm we were already pedalling. Conveniently, the trail runs directly behind the site—no faff, just hop on and go!

On the High Peak Trail

The ride was an absolute joy. Smooth, steady paths and glorious open views made it easy to lose ourselves in the scenery. By the end of the afternoon, we had clocked up 30 miles, a satisfying distance for our last big adventure of the trip.

Of course, we couldn’t resist a pub stop at one end of the trail—and another when we got back. After all, a good pint always tastes better after a long cycle!

Winding Down

As the sun set on our final day, we tucked into a hearty plate of campervan sausage and mash—the perfect comfort food after a day on the bike in cooler temperatures. It felt like the perfect full stop to an incredible few weeks on the road.

Scotland gave us endless memories, but the High Peak Trail was the ideal way to round off our travels. A little slice of cycling heaven in the heart of Derbyshire.

High Peak Highlights:

Middleton Top campsite – a good base location wise for the trail. Campsite has showers but they were ratty and dirty, toilets and a washing up area but no electric. £20pn. Very unlevel and if it had been full, also a small space. We didn’t really like it and wouldn’t return.

High Peak Trail – traffic-free, smooth, and scenic Derbyshire Dales views – glorious all the way – 30 miles cycled in one afternoon 🚴

Pub stops (because balance!) Royal Oak at Hurdlow (would eat here next time!) and The Rising Sun at Middleton Top

Campervan sausage & mash to finish- perfect!

Exploring Our Backyard: A Weekend Adventure Close to Home

Sometimes, you don’t need to travel far to find adventure. This weekend, instead of heading out in Gandalf the VW, we decided to play tourists right here in our own backyard. From scenic walks through the forest to cozy stops for refreshment, it turned out to be a day that felt like a mini escape – without the need for a suitcase.

Setting Out on Our Local Adventure

We started our journey from East Harling, our charming village in Norfolk. Our route took us down a peaceful lane toward West Harling. After just 1.5 miles, we left the road behind and stepped into the forest – and what a transformation it was! Surrounded by towering trees and quiet trails, it felt as though we were miles away from home.

On our way, we passed a flock of sheep – the most impressively horned ones we’ve ever seen – and stopped to admire the picturesque West Harling church, which dates back to the 14th century and is steeped in history.

From there, we continued past the entrance to Dower House Campsite, a perfect base if you want to recreate our route, and headed toward a gem tucked away in the woods: The Retreat Bar at Thorpe Woodland Forest Holidays Park.

A Forest Oasis: The Retreat Bar

The Retreat Bar is one of our favourite spots for a mid-walk break. Nestled among the trees, it’s like a little oasis in the heart of the forest, and best of all, it’s incredibly dog-friendly. Whether you’re in the mood for brunch or a hearty meal, the menu offers plenty of options.

While we brought our own homemade soup in food flasks this time, we couldn’t resist a beverage break. To my delight, they even had Pornstar Martinis on the menu, alongside other popular cocktails. It’s rare to find such a well-stocked bar in the middle of a forest!

The Journey Back

Refreshed, we retraced our steps back towards East Harling, though the beauty of this area is the endless possibilities for exploring. The forest is crisscrossed with miles of trails, including sections of the famous Peddars Way, and it’s easy to extend your walk to nearby spots like the stunning Knettishall Heath.

For those looking to stay longer or something special, Thorpe Woodland Forest Holidays offers luxurious cabins with hot tubs – perfect for relaxing after a day of exploring. We overheard a few holidaymakers talking about their plans to soak in their hot tubs after their walk, which made us smile. (Though we didn’t need to be jealous – we have our own hot tub waiting for us at home!)

If you’re after something more Campervan and budget-friendly, there’s the Dower House Campsite, which boasts great facilities, including an outdoor pool. Alternatively, there are two certified location campsites, offering a simpler, back-to-basics experience- one on the outskirts of the forest and one nearer the village .

A Reminder to Appreciate What’s Close to Home

This little adventure made us pause and appreciate how lucky we are to have Thetford Forest on our doorstep. It’s easy to see why it’s such a draw for holidaymakers seeking tranquility and a connection to nature.

For those visiting the area, we recommend trying our route – or even flipping it around and walking into East Harling for a delicious pub lunch at The Nags Head. The circular route is around 8 miles, with a mix of quiet lanes and forest trails.

Route for just forest trails – so from Dower House or The Lodge CL

Your Turn: Explore Your Local Area

Acting as tourists in our own local vicinity was a refreshing and eye-opening experience. It reminded us that adventure doesn’t always mean traveling far and wide – sometimes, it’s just about seeing your surroundings with fresh eyes.

Do you have a similar favourite walk or local gem where you live? We’d love to hear about it in the comments. Let’s inspire each other to explore the beauty that’s right at our doorstep!

Adventures in The Peak District

February 4th- 6th 

Gandalf the VW is parked up alongside his pal, Hiilda the Hymer (my Dad and Step Mum’s) motorhome and we’re nestled behind The Waterloo Inn in Biggin, Derbyshire, cashing in our Christmas present from them- a camping weekend.

We’re staying at the Waterloo Inn campsite, conveniently located just behind the pub. The site is fairly basic, but does have hard standing pitches, heated showers and loos, a washing up shack, usual waste emptying facilities, miles up on miles of walks and bike rides on its doorstep; and of course the  (dog friendly) pub complete with log fire within staggering distance. What more could we possibly need?! Some decent weather was on our wish list, but honestly, having been grounded due to a broken big toe and even ending up on crouches for some of January, I really couldn’t care less about the weather. I was just ready for an adventure and to see some hills!

We had a great journey up from Norfolk on Friday morning, arriving at the site just in time for lunch. Following lunch, we had a walk down to Hartington, a pretty little village with a nice and cosy pub, The Devonshire Arms.

We had a quick dram – it had to be a quick one as the daylight was fading fast, before making our way back up the track to Biggin ready for dinner in the pub.

The Waterloo Arms was unpretentious and exceptionally friendly. We instantly were made to feel welcome and the food was nice too. Keith and I enjoyed the local banger of the week from the butchers nearby at Stanage Edge. We enjoyed our evening in the pub catching up with Dad and Jenny, so engrossed we were with our company we had no idea that snow had fallen whilst we’d been inside!

Friday night was exceptionally peaceful on site and we all slept well. 

Saturday arrived, and whilst it was a bit blowy and chilly, it was dry- so we unloaded our bikes, and after breakfast baps, hit the very nearby Tissington Trail. 

The Tissington Trail is an old disused railway line, now turned into recreational track. The surface was ideal for our E bikes, and the scenery was stunning. The more exposed sections offered panaromic views of the The Peak District, as we whizzed by Alsop dale and beyond.

Some sections had terrifically tall and steep sides- the path (old track) cutting through the limestone like a knife. There were huge railways bridges for us to cycle under too.

The only problem was the rapidly deteriorating weather- it was blowing a hooley to put it lightly, and actually blooming cold wet and a bit miserable. We explored Tissington, a very pretty little village with picture perfect stone cottages and small lanes and a hall now used as a venue, and also a duck pond.

We nipped into the butchers, and enjoyed our picnic lunch…. in the bus shelter, which was a very welcome relief as it was FREEZING.

We had considered carrying on slightly further to Ashbourne, however we had done 7 miles already – some of which were hard work with the high cross winds, and also Dad didn’t have an E Bike so was struggling with the weather conditions on his bike. We all agreed we’d had enough for one day, and would rather finish and feel happy weather than carry on a bit further and begin to feel unhappy/ratty.

So we made our way back the way we came, along the Tissington Trail back to our new temporary local, where the roaring fires awaited us and a top shelf bottle of Jura to warm us up.

Despite the weather, it hadn’t dampened our spirits, and once warmed up I think we all felt a huge satisfaction about our day’s adventure. Keith and I really enjoyed the scenery along the way and I’m sure in warmer and dryer weather this would be a brilliant activity to enjoy. 

Dinner was a delicious beef brisket pot roast and we followed this by an earlyish night! Unfortunately our neighbours on the site did NOT have an early night and we were awoken several times by campfire singing and general noise. However – they were in TENTS! So clearly Needed to get wasted I think to cope! 🤣

Sunday dawned, and despite it absolutely lashing it down during the night, we awoke to fairly ok weather, so had a quick early breakfast and donned our walking boots. The campsite we’re being generous and allowing us to have a later check out. We enjoyed a terrific walk down through Biggin Dale- which reminded me and Keefy of something out of Lord of the Rings, with its green mossy banks and stone and scree banks.

As we had set off early we had the place to ourselves. If we had had more time, we could have extended the walk to either Hartington or Milldale in the opposite direction – however the river was a reminder of how rough the weather had been – you could hear it quite a distance away, it was thrashing though the valley.

Our return route was a retracing of our steps, or rather a sliding back to the pub- the grass path was really muddy and slippy in places with both Keefy and Jenny going over a couple of times. Still – we loved it. I really feel invigorated in this scenery, and having had a number of weeks being unable to even do the mile dog walk loop, just being out and feeling the wind and cold on my face and some scenery was brilliant. We had sunday lunch in the pub before retrieving Gandalf the VW and Hiiilda the Hymer, saying our farewells and retreating back to Norfolk, just in time to unload before it got dark. 

A splendid weekend away.

We’d recommend the campsite for walking/cycling around the Tissington/Hartington area. Its no frills, but did the job superbly!

Until Next Time – which is in less than 5 days… eek!

Lx 

Adventures IN Thame

Gandalf the VW Campervan is parked up on another gem of a CL, this time just 40 mins down the road from Newbridge, which is ON the Thames, to Thame which is NOT on the Thames, but in fact the River Thame. This fact alone blew our minds the entire 40 minute journey!

We’re staying on Lashlake Barn CL, a C&MC CL within walking distance of Thame. The campsite is lovely – each pitch has electric and a water tap, and the site is very secure – it’s situated behind electric gates which we all have a fob to give us access on foot or wheels. At the far end of the campsite The River Thame runs and there is a stream runnning off it which was the backdrop of our pitch. The price of the pitch is £18 pn which feels a reasonable and fair amount.

We ended up meeting Dad and Jenny as we arrived which was handy and it didn’t take us all long to get our vans into relaxing mode, soon cracking open a gin and having some lunch.

After lunch, we were treated to a rare sight… the sun, which I think has been missing in action recently. We hailed its return and set off for a wander around Thame.

Just behind the campsite is St Mary’s Church, final resting place to the incredible Robin and Andy Gibb (Beegees).

Opposite their graves is Robin Gibb’s former house, Prebendal – an absolutely stunning medieval property with its own collection of impressive historical events that it has played host to, including it being the place in which the decision that Joan of Ark was to be sentenced to her death was made.

Keith found this really great video of Robin Gibb showing a camera crew around the house which we found fascinating.

From here we continued up to the high street, admiring all of the listed houses as we went. Thame was actually used in Midsomer Murders as a filming location. It’s easy to see why, there are many medieval houses with brilliantly preserved fascias.

Thame was also home to the famous poet – and Keith’s favourite Poet – Yeats. We saw the house in which he lived, and Keith even recited an extract of his favourite Yeats poem outside.

We spent some time indulging in our family hobby – charity shop hunting! All the shops were brilliantly dog friendly, and we all picked up one or two bits and bobs!

After a couple of drinks, we nipped back to the campsite to change for dinner, before heading back to town. We had a table booked in the Black Horse, a really lovely gastro pub bistro, which amazing also was dog friendly. The food and service was great and we really enjoyed our evening.

Friday dawned sunny! Yes Sunny!

After a lovely breakfast of scrambled eggs and salmon on toast, we got our bikes unhooked and set off on the Phoenix Trail, an off road, disused railway path between Thame and Princes Risborough. The trail runs for just over 7 miles and has a number of sculptures to enjoy on route, along with great views of the Chilterns.

We had lunch and some more charity shop hunting in Princes Risborough before making our way back in record time to Thame. Dad was on the only non electric bike and did a sterling job setting the fast pace on our return! I was on high assist to keep up!

Apparently Jamiroquai lives opposite here!

Before making our way back to the campsite from Thame, I picked up some butchers lamb, and when we got back I knocked up a Lamb Dhansak in the Remoska, along with a chicken saag. That’s right, Friday night is Curry night! We enjoyed our feast of curry’s outside as it was still fairly mild before settling down in front of the campfire as the stars came out. What a lovely day we’d all had.

Saturday soon arrived and our time was up. Before we left though, Keith spotted some enormous crayfish in the stream behind us. Having never seen these before (me and Keith anyway) they kept us amused for quite some time.

This one only had one claw, but if you click on the photo you can see it’s got a new claw growing back.

Dad had accidentally sent some of our bacon flying into the steam and they were enjoying it massively! We also had some other new friends on site- the free range chickens although Jazz wasn’t sure about these!

We’d had a wonderful couple of days and really enjoyed our time in Thame, despite our mind being blown that it wasn’t on The Thames.

Until next time

Adventures on the Moray Firth

Gandalf the VW is parked up with panoramic views of the Moray Firth ahead. Our home for next three nights is Sunny Brae; a C&MC CL on the outskirts of Findlochty. The site is small but very well positioned with all 5 hard standing pitches positioned to give privacy and a view. Once again we have no facilities other than EHU and a tap/emptying point- oh and some shaky WiFi, but at £12pn we can’t help but think this is one of the best priced CLs on the network.

We managed to get set up just before the rain fell, and we enjoyed watching a storm out at sea from the shelter of our sun canopy with a g&t.

We’re starting to feel quite tired – we’ve been on the road and on the go now for two full weeks (bar one night quick changeover) since the end of the school term, and whilst we’ve had a brilliant time, it comes at a cost of beginning to feel worn out!

Dinner tonight was homemade haggis, mushroom and spinach pizzas, made in the Remoska which were delicious and then we settled down for a quiet night of reading and watching Ozark (K).

Haggis Pizza Recipe in Remoska

Thursday

This morning dawned with beautiful blue skies. Seeing as it looks like our run of good weather may be changing tomorrow we decided to get up and on, in order to enjoy the best of the weather.

After a quick bacon sandwich and some household chores, we got on the bikes. Today’s adventure was cycling some of the Moray Coastal trail; a mostly off road cycle trail. We picked the trail up in Findlochty, just half a mile from our campsite and followed it to Cullen.

The first part was directly on the cliff top and as such had tremendous coastal views.

At Portknockie we opted for the Disused railway track- the coastline between there and Cullen looking more rugged and contouring on the map, and perhaps less suitable for our road E bikes. Plus we do enjoy disused railways tracks (and they tend to be level!)

Our approach into Cullen was spectacular, the weather gods were really on our side, and we enjoyed cycling over the impressive viaduct that dominates the skyline.

We headed up to the castle hill, a former motte and Bailey and enjoyed the views over the coast.

We then cycled back down to the village and onto the beach and harbour area, checking out the viaduct from ground level too.

We considered taking the coastal path back but in the end the Scottish Open being held on Cullen links prevented that so we happily retraced our steps back to Portknockie on the railway path, pausing for lunch at Bow Fiddle, a dramatic rock formation that resembles the upper part of the a violin bow.

We watched (and listened to – they’re noisy so and so’s!) the sea gulls and cormorants that nest here for some time, before making our way to Findlochty. We then continued in the opposite direction to Buckie- again this stretch of the coastal trail is disused railway with lovely views across the sea and a wonderful tarmac path.

At Buckie we picked up fresh fish from Eat Muir and then made our way back to the campsite, via the pub at Findlochty, where we enjoyed a drink overlooking the pretty harbour.

Once back at Gandalf we spent the afternoon enjoying the sunshine: if the weather forecast is to be believed this may be the last of the blue skies we see for some time!

Dinner tonight of course was… Cullen skink!

Delicious 😋

Friday

Well the weather forecast was correct for once and rain did indeed fall today! Lots of it! it actually didn’t bother us at all, as I’d mentioned earlier on this list we were beginning to feel exhausted -in a nice way – so we took the rain day as an opportunity to have a duvet day; something which we very VERY rarely do. We stayed in bed til 11:30, then got up and made a brunch cooked breakfast.

We then settled in to begin watching Breaking Bad, which we ended up watching for the remainder of the day, with a break in the middle for a game of monopoly and sweet and sour chicken dinner.

By dinner time the rain had stopped so we were able to cook under the canopy and we were even treated to a glimpse of blue sky.

After dinner, we went for a short leg stretch on the track behind the campsite, before retreating back to Gandalf to continue Breaking Bad .

Sometime I think we get a bit carried away on these trips and forget to give ourselves time to stop and catch our breath. We get so caught up in wanting to make the most of our time, and not wanting to miss anything in the new areas that we travel in, but we forget that our normal day to day life is exceptionally busy, and we’re mainly rushing around and working 12 hour days. At some point we just have to pause! This site has been the perfect place to draw breath as we’ve got wonderful sea views in the distance and it’s lovely and quiet.

We move on tomorrow for our last push north. We’ll definitely return here to cycle more of the Moray a coastal Route and also do a bit of coastal walking and the cliffs and contour gradients are not as dramatic as down south on the South West Coast, yet the views are just as dramatic. I’d also like to do the walk from Cullen to Findlater Castle and cycle to Portgordon and beyond.

Until next time

Lx

Adventures on the North Yorkshire coast

Monday

Gandalf the Campervan is parked up on a wonderful “off grid” Caravan and Motorhome club CL, a small 5 van site, with no facilities or hook up (other than loo disposal and tap/bin). We’re perched on the edge of the N York Moors with views of the sea and Whitby Abby; just 4 miles away. Deneside Field is just £7 pn- what a bargain!

Our journey here today was relaxed – we set off around 10:30am and arrived just after 4pm with a couple of comfort stops. The stretch leading up to Whitby from the A1 was stunning!

We’ve got the bikes with us as this is our first stop of a 2.5 week tour of the East Coast, so set up took slightly longer but, we’re here for 3 days so we want to be comfortable on site. The weather is far better than predicted, in fact there’s not a cloud in the sky and the sea looks rather Mediterranean like!

We had a chill at the site tonight, enjoying the views and the peace and quiet- there is only one other Caravan here. Perfection! Dinner was sausage, mash and beans- a simple but tasty supper to enjoy after a long journey north.

View from site: Whitby Abby in the distance and the sea behind

We’re excited about exploring the local area as it’s been a number of years since we were last in Whitby and Robin Hoods Bay.

Tuesday

Tuesday dawned bright and beautiful; a nice surprise as the forecast wasn’t so optimistic! We had a lazy morning, enjoying the views and enjoying bacon sandwiches before prepping the bikes and hitting the road towards Whitby.

One of the draws for us to return to this area was to explore the Cinder Track, a disused railway line that runs from Scarborough to Whitby- a total distance of 21 miles. Our site isn’t directly on the Cinder track so before we could enjoy any of it we had to navigate our way to an appropriate entry point. We consulted Ordanance Survey and found a route which took in a quiet road and a bridleway, which looked appropriate. Well, let me tell you. It was not!! We ended up pushing our bikes nervously for around 1.5 miles on this hardcore mountain bike trail through a forest. The path was not suitable for us one bit, and whilst now, thinking back it seemed an adventure at the time, in reality it was bloody awful! Although it was pretty!

Luckily once we got onto the Cinder Track things dramatically improved, the surface was a dream on our electric bikes and the gradient unnoticeable.

It wasn’t far at all to Whitby but we enjoyed the scenery, a highlight was going over the Larpool Viaduct. They’re were some beautiful bridges to pass under. It had lived up to our exceptions and made the previous hour of horribleness worthwhile!

Whitby was heaving! Properly busy! Too busy to enjoy if I’m honest; although that’s perhaps a bit harsh as we had a lovely day. It’s just we’ve not been around that volume of people for so long- I found it a bit scary! The weather gods were on our side though, we enjoyed blue skies and a gentle breeze.

We had a fish and chip lunch from Papas, not the famous Magpie- although Papas was named the best fish and chips in UK according to a recent BBC competition. (They were goooood!)

We washed the fish and chips down with a couple of drinks over looking the harbour, before tackling the 199 stairs up to the Abby. The Abby is English Heritage and fairly pricey to get in at £13 pp (free for members) instead we enjoyed a Whitby lager at the tap house and brewery opposite which has brilliant views of the Abby. It always makes me laugh on the stairs at Whitby… ALL you can hear is people around you either counting the steps or discussing if it is indeed 199 or is it 197 (or any other number for that matter!)

After an ice cream at the bottom of the steps we collected our bikes – we’d parked them by Papas fish and chip bar- and made our way back to Gandalf. This time we continued to Hawkser on the Cinder Track before exiting and taking a quiet road route back to our campsite- 2.5 miles of hills, some steep, but our E bikes were TREMENDOUS!

Tonight is spent having a chill – enjoying the non rain!

Wednesday

For the first time in what’s seems an age, we slept in until 09:15 this morning! It was a little showery so we decided not to rush about, which was nice not to be working to a timescale for once. We set off from the campsite around 11ish – on the bikes towards Hawsker to pick up the Cinder track once more. We took the road route and as we’re not on hook up, turned our bike batteries off, choosing to save the battery for the homeward journey later. We therefore pedalled our way up down, up down etc to the cinder track- feeling very proud of ourselves when we reached it!

Our recommended route to the Cinder Track from Deneside Field CL

The cinder track to Robin Hoods Bay is only 3 miles and it’s a glorious section, with sea views dominating the majority of the journey. There was a steep cut bank at one point, making it easy to imagine trains travelling along here from 1885 to 1965 when the line was frequented by trains carrying goods and passengers along the Scarborough to Whitby line.

Cinder Track Leaflet

We found bike parking easily in Robin Hoods Bay so made our way by foot down the hill to the sea front. We love Robin Hoods Bay; it’s been a number of years since our last visit, and it was just as nice as we remembered. The quaint fisherman’s cottages line the street and the non tacky shops with just a couple of pubs, tea rooms and b and bs are right up our street.

The weather was behaving beautifully and we enjoyed a drink in front of the Bay Inn- the official end of the Coast to Coast walk, overlooking the cliffs towards Scarborough.

After a crab roll from the local fish shop on the beach, we took emergency cover as a thunderstorm passed over us.

Luckily this coincided with the Smugglers, a 400 year old very atmospheric dog friendly wine bar, opening so we took shelter inside, until the rain stopped and we could make our way back to the bikes and onwards back home.

We retraced our steps following the cinder track back to Hawsker and then gleefully switched on our batteries to get us back to Gandalf – up down, up down etc etc.

Dinner was a delicious chicken curry before a night of relaxation and enjoying the view for one final night

Tomorrow we move on north to Edinburgh. We’ve absolutely loved our time here- especially enjoying being off grid, and relying solely on solar power has felt liberating actually. The site is wonderful, and whilst there is a bit of road noise (mainly farm traffic) it does quieten down after dark. The views towards Whitby and the sea are gorgeous. It’s perhaps not the best places for the Cinder Track, but we’ve managed well. There are a couple of other sites directly on the track which were full when we were making reservations. Having said that we’ve really loved this site, and armed with either a car, or electric bikes you really can enjoy the local area easily, and cheaply- and remember it’s just £7pn!

Until Next Time

Lx

Adventures on the Marriott’s Way

Gandalf the VW Campervan is parked at Eves Hill Farm, a C&CC certified site in Norfolk on the outskirts of Reepham. We should have been in Wales this weekend, but two absolutely bonkers weeks at work, along with a middle weekend moving my mum, meant that by the time Thursday came along Keith and I were running on fumes- and I think that’s an overstatement! Sadly we we’re just too tired (and felt quite ill) to make the 5 hour journey each way for just two nights near to Bodnant Gardens, so we had to send our apologies and add the Laburnum archway and stunning gardens that are featured in the newest Secret Garden film onto a list for next year.

Instead we got some well needed rest on Friday and had a regroup. We managed to book a last minute pitch at Eves Hills Farm for the night on Saturday- a mere 40 min drive from home felt much more palatable and we were able to take our new bikes with us to try them out on the nearby Marriott’s Way– a disused railway track now turned into leisure path.

We’ve cycled this a few times before, and it remains a favourite place for us to head off to for just a night.

2019 Marriott’s Way trip

2015 Marriott’s Way

Eves Hill Farm was a perfect base. Just a couple of miles outside of Reepham – which we stopped at before hand to stock up on local sausages and bacon for breakfast from the butchers, and cheese from the deli next door. What more did we need? Homemade burgers from the campsite of course! Luckily for us Eves Farm have their own herd of Hereford cattle and make their own steaks and burgers. Bbq ready for later, and a cheese board for lunch set us up for an afternoon of cycling. The 2 miles back into Reepham were a doddle on our E bikes and we were soon on our way on the Marriott’s Way.

We decided to head south on the trail and stopped for refreshments after around 7 miles at Whitwell Station.

We enjoy stopping here, there is very often some steam train activity to watch.

Video highlights of bike ride

We decided to make our way back to the campsite, we’d noticed a charming looking pub at Reepham which we enjoyed a drink at before arriving back at the campsite totalling up 18 Miles’s – a breeze on these e bikes!

The campsite has a fairly decent shower (along with washing up station with hot water!) so we ditched our diy awning shower in favour of an electric shower before dinner, which was a delicious bbq followed by local strawberry’s and clotted cream. Perfection!

Sunday dawned grey however we had a lazy start and enjoyed a full English breakfast before packing up. The campsite was able to accommodate a late check out so we explored more of the Marriott’s way, this time heading north to Aylsham.

Marriott’s day video day 2

Lovely Daisy’s

We had coffee and cake at Aylsham station, which links with the Bure Valley Way, before taking the back roads to return to the campsite. Aylsham is another good place to watch the steam trains.

Our last trip to Bure Valley Way

The joy of this was when we passed a fantastic French gothic church – Booton church- with its twin towers and phenomenal hammered roof and carved angels.

It’s nickname “the cathedral of the fields” really is accurate. What a fabulous building.

From here we continued past the campsite to Little Witchingham- to another historical church; this one an abandoned church saved from demolition when stunning medieval wall paintings were discovered dating from the 15th century.

The intensity of the paintings was incredible, and the remoteness of the church and its abandonment certainly added to its charm!

We cycled the 2 miles from here back to Eves Hill, clocking up over 21 miles on total.

We are thrilled with our new E Bikes!

Keith held onto his Aldi Vitesse Rush – my Aldi one was faulty so I now have a Pendleton Somerby E bike from Halfords. I’m in love with it!

We’ve got a couple of weeks at home coming up as we have our Mot and then we are having a solar panel fitted to the roof, but on just 3 weeks we’ll be off out on numerous trips. We can’t wait!

Until next time

Lx

Adventures in the South Downs; Part 2- Arundel Castle and Fishbourne Roman Palace

Tuesday arrived bright and sunny, just as the weather forecast predicted and after a delicious smoked haddock and poached eggs we packed away in the blistering heat and made our way the short way to Arundel Castle. We were extremely thankful for Gandalf’s air con!

On arrival at Arundel, we parked in the public car park opposite the castle which is large enough for the biggest of motorhomes, and made our way to the Castle entrance. First impressions were absolutely excellent- Arundel Castle looks like a fairytale castle when you scratch the surface, but delve a little deeper and you realise that it’s a mix of both Medieval and Victorian, with a medieval keep high on a motte and then these wonderful big ramparts and towers.

Inside the castle you can see a fair bit. We were particularly interested in the history of the seat of the Duke of Norfolk – as back in the 1600s in the next village to us, Kenninghall- the duke of Norfolk had a Manor House which got destroyed. There is a fair bit of history regarding this Manor House so when we get home we will set about trying to research this some more.

In the pictures above- the one in the bottom right hand corner is a beautiful decorative table made out of tiny mosaic segments. The library is exquisite.

Outside of the castle, the gardens are terrific; and the irises just looked superb. There is a lovely rose garden along with a water garden. We really enjoyed our time visiting!

After our visit we went for lunch at the Red Lion on the high street which was lovely.

We then moved on to our next location of this surprise trip for Keefy’s birthday. 30 mins beyond Arundel is Chichester- and our home for the next two nights was a very lovely C&MC certified called Fir Trees on the outskirts of Chichester.

We settled into our lovely pitch, this time with EHU , and had an hour or two basking in the sun on our inflatable chairs. The site is a huge grass (but very short grass) field -with impeccable chemical loo point, Keefy tells me!

We had a bbq for dinner – chicken kebabs and swordfish, before having a very early night. I was exhausted and my foot was still playing up!

Wednesday arrived and I broke the news to Keefy where we were going today; Fishbourne Roman Palace which was conveniently just 4 miles down the road and an easy cycle. We made our way onto the Salterns Way- a cycle route up to Chichester and down to West Wittering. We rode north past very pretty harbours and house boats and stopped for an early lunch at the amazingly beautiful Dell Quay. We felt like we were at the Mediterranean!

After lunch of crab burgers, we continued up to Fishbourne Roman Palace. We really enjoyed our visit. It was much bigger than Bignor- the size of this plot was huge and there were lots of mosaic to see. The layout of the visitors centre made it very easy to imagine the scale of the site here. They still don’t know who lived here but given it’s size we felt sure the emperor must have visited if not lived here.

From here we joined the aptly named Centurian Way, a disused railway route now turned into a traffic free cycle path. It gets its name from the Roman Road that it loosely follows and has some interesting sculptures not to mention terrific railway bridges along the way.

The Centurian way runs 6 miles each way from Chichester to West Dean.

We stopped a couple of times to pretend we were Roman drinking red wine from travel cups, before just as we turned back my bike broke! 🤦‍♀️ we’re not entirely sure how it happens but the cog that carries the chain bent at a 45 degree angle. Lucky for us we were near a pub which lent us a mallet and a screwdriver to get me back on the road home.

Had this not have happened, we were intending on following the Saltern way again all the back down to West Wittering, and I’d also hoped to visit Bosham, but we’ll have to save that for another time.

Dinner tonight was ribs, chilli and Mac n cheese – before a big chill. We are moving on again tomorrow and won’t be camping for the actually day of K’s bday. Whilst we both have had an AMAZING week, he has drawn the line at having to deal with chemical loos on his 50th bday. He has no idea where we are going to- but I’ve promised him he won’t have to drop his (or my!) plops 😂

Until next time

Lx