Bank Holiday Escape: Cycling the Hornsea–Hull Rail Trail 🚴‍♀️

We’re always on the lookout for a new bike trail—especially those old disused railway lines that have been transformed into scenic cycling routes. There’s something special about riding through history, and this bank holiday we discovered a gem we hadn’t come across before: the Hornsea to Hull rail trail. Even better, it gave us the perfect excuse to head north and tie in a visit with my dad and stepmum.

Campsite & First Impressions

We based ourselves at Corner House Campsite, a simple Certificated Site offering just the essentials—electric hook-up, water, and waste disposal. At £22 per night, it felt like great value, especially given its location just moments from the trail access at Great Hatfield.

We arrived around lunchtime on Friday, making a quick stop first at a nearby farm shop to stock up. With local sausages, fresh veg, ice cream, and the all-important sausage roll and pork pie secured, we were more than ready to settle in.

Coastal Ride to Hornsea

That afternoon, we set off on our bikes towards Hornsea. The sun was shining, and we wanted to make the most of it, and it felt like the perfect start to the weekend. We found a lovely pub with sea views and enjoyed a relaxed drink before heading back along the trail to our campsite.

This route is part of the Trans Pennine Trail and follows a former railway line that operated for over a century before closing in the 1960s. Along the way there are still glimpses of its past—and at the Hornsea end, most notably a beautifully converted station building that adds to the charm.

Back at Gandalf the VW campervan, we soaked up the evening sunshine, enjoying a bbq and even lit the fire pit—a perfect end to the day.

Riding into Hull

Saturday brought more sunshine, so after bacon butties, we headed in the opposite direction towards Hull.

The ride stretched about 11 miles through wide open countryside. The surface was mostly good, though a bit bumpy in places for road bikes—but nothing too off-putting. There were old platforms being reclaimed by nature, converted stations now residential houses. It was all charming and a reminder about a bygone era.

Arriving in Hull, we parked the bikes up near the Guildhall and wandered into the Old Town. It genuinely surprised us—in the best way. Cobbled streets, historic buildings, atmospheric alleys. Not how we’d imagined.

We stopped for a drink in Ye Olde House, one of the oldest dwelling in the city, now a pub, and also Ye Old Black Boy, the oldest pub in the city, before heading down to the estuary. Sitting in the sunshine overlooking the Humber, with the Humber Bridge visible in the distance, was a real highlight. Our final stop was Ye Olde White Horse—another historic spot, famously home to a skeleton displayed above the bar.

One downside? We were surprised at how many pubs weren’t dog-friendly. We were turned away from four places, which felt unusual given how welcoming most areas tend to be.

Back to Camp & A Slower Sunday

The cycle back along the traffic-free route was just as enjoyable, with a final pit stop at The Railway Inn—thankfully dog-friendly.

Dinner that evening was a simple pre-made tagine we’d brought from home, followed by an early night. By 8pm, we were completely exhausted!

Sunday brought a change in weather, so we leaned into it with a full-on slow day. A lazy morning, a proper cooked brunch, a wander around the village, and some time to read. Dinner was sausage and mash (using those farm shop sausages—delicious), followed by a film.

Final Thoughts

This trip ticked all the boxes: a brilliant cycle trail, small scale campsite, great local food- we love a farm shop!, and a mix of coast and countryside. The Hornsea–Hull rail trail is a fantastic route—rich in history, easy to navigate, and wonderfully scenic.

https://youtu.be/RfcNV8TXwxo?si=vbUIp0DUb6OTmNQY

It’s also got us thinking… could we start exploring more of the Trans Pennine Trail in sections for future getaways?

We’re very tempted.

Where did you head for the bank holiday?

Recap

campsite

Rail trail

Farm Shop

Oldest pub in Hull

Happy New Year from Bridlington 2026

From the rolling hills of the Yorkshire Wolds and our stop near Pocklington, we made the short drive over to the C&MC Club site at Bridlington, which would be our base for the next four nights.

Check-in was refreshingly quick thanks to the new fast-lane system. No need to trek back to reception to confirm pitch numbers – a simple text reply telling them where you’re staying does the job. A small change, but a very welcome one.

Once settled, we cooked up a delicious pork fillet stir fry, then spent the evening exactly how we like it: relaxed, cosy, and quietly reading as the wind rustled outside the van.

The Day Before New Year’s Eve: Scarborough by Rail 🚆

The following day we set off on foot, walking the two miles to Bempton railway station where we hopped on a train to Scarborough – just £4.40 each. We went without huge expectations (Whitby still holds our hearts up this stretch of coast), but Scarborough surprised us in the best way.

We spent a few hours exploring, stopping for drinks with glorious sea views over the harbour. It helped the weather was much nicer than expected.

The standout was The Lookout, which was buzzing with diners tucking into impressive-looking plates of fresh fish and seafood. Watching the sun dip over the harbour, it genuinely felt Mediterranean.

Fish and chips came courtesy of Tunny Club, housed in an old fisherman’s cottage and every bit as good as you’d hope.

We also rode the oldest cliff railway in the UK, a lovely nod to the town’s heritage, before popping into the terrace bar at the Grand Hotel – once famous for being the largest hotel in Europe.

The weather gods were smiling down on us and we enjoyed the most spectacular sunset before boarding the bus back to Bridlington and another bus from Brid to the campsite.

Back at the van that evening, we enjoyed a comforting slow-cooker chicken casserole with fresh bread and another relaxed night in.

New Year’s Eve: Coastal Paths and Quiet Celebrations 🥂

On New Year’s Eve we walked into Bridlington from the campsite – around a mile to Sewerby, where you pick up the coast path into town. It’s a beautiful, easy walk with sweeping sea views, and we couldn’t pass The Ship at Sewerby without stopping. It has a cracking beer garden, perched above the sea, which reminded us a little of the Ship Inn in Mundesley.

Bridlington itself felt a bit tired in places, but we struck gold thanks to a recommendation from Dad and Jenny. Jerome’s Pavilion is an absolute gem, perfectly positioned on the seafront with spectacular sea views from almost every angle. Drinks, cocktails, food, dog-friendly, and a brilliant atmosphere – we ended up staying for a couple of drinks both outside in the winter sunshine and inside by the window.

After fish and chips down by the harbour and a gentle wander, we retraced our steps along the coast, soaking up the very last sunlight of 2025.

New Year’s Eve itself was a quiet one for us – two films, a buffet, and bed before midnight, content and full of sea air. For those who prefer a party, the campsite wardens had organised a pub night which seemed popular and well appreciated by many onsite, but we were more than happy in our pyjamas.

NYE Buffet!

If you’re considering Bridlington for New Year, it’s a great base and a really well-run site. Do note, though, that there were fireworks going off locally during the night. Our Jazz is deaf and unbothered, but it’s worth bearing in mind for dogs who struggle with noise.

New Year’s Day: Danes Dyke and a Feast 🍾

New Year’s Day began slowly, with bacon and sausage doorstep sandwiches for breakfast – the perfect start.

Late morning we headed out for a leg stretch and bumped into warden Kevin (aka Luna Travels), who recognised Jazz first and then us from our blogs! It was so lovely to meet you, Kevin – and thank you for following along over the years. Safe travels to you both!

Our walk took us left out of the campsite gate on a four-mile circular route, taking in Danes Dyke, a deep wooded ravine right beside the site on the Flamborough Headland. Thought to be an Iron Age defensive earthwork and later reused by Romans and Vikings, it once stretched coast to coast as a natural defence line. Standing there, it’s easy to see how formidable it must have been.

We followed the coast back to our local, the Ship at Sewerby, for a swift pint. It was freezing, and I couldn’t stay inside too long – the Yorkshire puddings on the carvery were calling far too loudly.

Walking route here

The afternoon was spent back at the van, relaxing before a proper three-course celebration dinner to welcome 2026:

Prawns. Steak. Chocolate salted caramel pudding.

All washed down with fizz and red wine. Absolute perfection.

Reflections on Our Bridlington New Year

We’ve had an amazing break away. It’s always a pleasure to return to Yorkshire, especially to parts of the UK we love – with the added bonus of discovering new corners and breathing in plenty of sea air.

As always, C&MC Club sites make winter touring in a VW camper van an absolute joy. Warm, clean facilities and endless hot water make all the difference, and they played a big part in making this one of the best New Year getaways we can remember.

This particular club site had a good transport link, with regular buses running from outside the gate to either Flamborough Head (ideal for puffin season) or Bridlington. From Bridlington you can either take the train or bus to Scarborough.

We hope you had a wonderful New Year too, whatever you got up to – and here’s to many brilliant adventures in 2026 🥂🚐

First job when we’re home… wash the van!

PS.. meet our new travel buddy… Sonny the Seagull. Who likes to feast on stolen chips…

A Couple of Nights in York – An Autumn Adventure

We’d barely unpacked our hand luggage from Iceland before we were back on the road again. With the rest of half term stretching ahead and some sunshine on the forecast, it didn’t take long to decide: we were off on another adventure in Gandalf, our trusty VW campervan.

A Quick Escape to York

York was calling — it’s one of those cities we never get tired of exploring. We’d actually planned to visit a few weeks earlier, but our beloved pooch had suffered a stroke. Thankfully, he’s made a full recovery — what a little soldier! 🐾

Every time we go to York, we end up staying somewhere new. This time we booked into Willow Caravan Park, a Caravan and Motorhome Club CL site on the outskirts of the city. It’s a brilliant find — with electric hook-up, showers, and even a bus stop right outside. Perfect for autumn camping.

💷 Cost: £24 per night (October 2025)

🚌 Location: Wigginton Road, York YO32 2RH

🚍 Transport: Bus stop right outside (Number 40 into York city centre)

At £24 a night, it’s also a real bargain compared to most other options in York — the main C&MC Club site currently comes in at a whopping £75 per night!

Ale, Cheese & Chilled Evenings

The journey north was smooth, and by mid-afternoon we were sat outside Gandalf with an ale in hand and a baked cheese dipping bowl bubbling away — simple but perfect.

Dinner was a homemade spaghetti Bolognese from the freezer, and we spent a cosy night relaxing in our happy place, feeling very content.

Hunting Ghosts in the Garden

The next morning, we caught the number 40 bus straight from the campsite into the city centre and headed for the York Visitor Information Centre to pick up maps for the Ghosts in the Garden Trail — one of York’s most creative seasonal events.

There are 60 ghostly sculptures scattered across 27 locations, and we managed to track down about 47 of them! We started around 10:45am and wrapped up at 6pm, when the light started to fade and the ghosts became too tricky to spot.

The sculptures are hauntingly beautiful — made from mesh and wire, semi-transparent so they appear to hover in place. Each one is unique and thoughtfully linked to its surroundings: the Nurse giving an injection at the old hospital, the Judge outside the Judges Court, and many more.

The trail also led us into hidden corners of York we might never have found otherwise — peaceful courtyards, cobbled lanes, and tucked-away gardens.

💡 Tip: The trail is free and runs annually around Halloween. Start early if you want to find them all before dark!

Ghostly Pubs & Proper Yorkshire Comfort Food

Of course, no trip to York would be complete without a few pub stops! We refuelled along the way with Old Peculier ale, Yorkshire pudding turkey roast wraps, and hearty sausage and mash — proper comfort food for a crisp autumn day.

There’s something about York in October — the mix of golden leaves, gothic architecture, and ghostly goings-on makes it the perfect autumn getaway.

Final Thoughts

Our short break in York was just what we needed — relaxed, atmospheric, and full of little surprises.

The Ghosts in the Garden trail is completely free and usually runs every year around Halloween, so if you’re looking for something a bit different to do in York next autumn, we can’t recommend it enough.

Sometimes the best trips are the ones you don’t overthink — just pack up, head off, and see where the road (and Gandalf!) takes you. 🚐🍂

Escape to the Yorkshire Dales: A New Year Adventure in Gandalf the VW

We kicked off 2025 in the best way possible, spending a week exploring the stunning Yorkshire Dales in our trusty camper van, Gandalf. From canal-side walks and dramatic limestone landscapes to hearty pub meals and cozy van nights, it was a New Year’s adventure to remember.

Day 1–3: Cononley, Gargrave & Skipton

Our journey began in the quaint village of Cononley, where we parked up at Riverside Campsite for three nights. This peaceful spot made a great base for exploring, and we wasted no time getting acquainted with the village’s two pubs—essential research, of course!

The next day, a short £5 return train journey whisked us to Gargrave, a picture-perfect village. After a delicious Yorkshire tapas lunch at The Masons Arms, we set off on a 5-mile canal walk along the Leeds & Liverpool Canal to Skipton. Low clouds couldn’t dull the charm of this scenic route. Once in Skipton, we celebrated with pints at The Woolly Sheep before returning to the van for a homemade curry.

The following day, we opted for another canal-side walk, this time from Cononley to Skipton. We explored Skipton’s cobbled streets, popped into the dog-friendly Skipton Castle, and enjoyed drinks at The Castle Inn. It was another great day and we really loved Skipton and the immediate surrounding areas.

Day 4: Malham’s Natural Wonders

Next, we moved campsites and en route couldn’t resist heading into Malham, where we embarked on a classic and well loved 5.5-mile walk through some of the Dales’ most iconic landmarks. Malham Cove, with its dramatic cliffs, awesome limestone pavement, and natural amphitheater formed by a prehistoric waterfall, was a highlight. From there, we visited Gordale Scar, an impressive gorge shaped by ancient glaciers. It was an unforgettable day of awe-inspiring scenery despite the absolute howling wind! After our Malham day, we continued the short distance to our next Campsite, and home for the next 3 nights, Dalesbridge Campsite.

Day 5–6: New Year’s Eve at Dalesbridge

We welcomed New Year’s Eve at the Dalesbridge Campsite, where torrential rain and gusty winds didn’t dampen our spirits. Instead, we took the opportunity to just stop and unwind, leaning into the slow paced van life vibes with board games, festive food, and plenty of wine. Our New Year’s menu included a prawn cocktail starter, cheese boards, butcher’s steaks from Skipton, and even a bottle of Châteauneuf-du-Pape.

The night was cozy despite the less-than-ideal campsite conditions (muddy pitches, huge site wide drainage issue, horrendous showers and noisy neighbours). We weren’t fans of the campsite at all, despite being steeped with history (a former Scarlett Fever hospital) the place seemed run down and not our sort of place at all. The highlight? Catching a glimpse of the Northern Lights on NYD.

Day 7: Dent & Ribblehead Viaduct

Our final stop was the charming village of Dent, known for its cobbled streets and picturesque setting. A detour due to road closures led us to the iconic Ribblehead Viaduct, where we captured stunning drone shots of the towering arches against the rugged Dales landscape. We also made a stop at Dent station, the highest mainline station in England.

In Dent, we took a peaceful but stunning 3-mile walk around Dentdale before winding down with a couple of drinks at the cozy George and Dragon pub. We’d have liked to have visited historic The Sun Inn, but like our last visit 5 years ago, it was closed! Dinner was a delicious Beef stew that had been cooking in slow cooker and was perfect considering it was -5 outside! Though High Laning Campsite was basic and a bit overpriced, the charm of Dent made up for it. Of we return, we’d pick Mill Beck CL over High Laning, which is a basic Certified site which offers much more space at a fraction of the price, but it would have to be during the summer months.

Final Stop: A Night in York

Before heading home, we couldn’t resist spending a Friday night in York, one of our favorite cities. We had been booked into the C&MC club site but it got cancelled due to flooding. So we stayed at York Caravan Park, an adults-only site with top-notch showers and easy access to the city via the late into the evening-running Coastliner bus.

Our evening began at the historic Black Swan Inn, known for its timber-framed charm and ghostly reputation. We visited the Roman Bath museum, situated underneath a pub! And took a stroll down the cobbled Shambles, such tourists, but we love it there, so we stopped for drinks in two historic taverns down The Shambles before meeting up with our pal Gary for dinner at his local.

We rounded out the night with pints at The Blue Boar, famously linked to Dick Turpin, (after his trial and execution for horse theft in 1739, his body was laid to rest in the cellar of this pub for public viewing!) and finished at The Three-Legged Mare, which hosts a lively Friday folk music night. The welcoming atmosphere (and dog-friendly vibe!) made it the perfect end to our trip.

Final Thoughts

From the dramatic limestone cliffs of Malham Cove to the charm of Skipton’s cobbled streets, the Yorkshire Dales delivered unforgettable scenery, cozy pubs, and a true sense of escape. Even the rain couldn’t dampen the magic of our New Year adventure.

Winter camping in a VW campervan comes with unique challenges. Campsites ranged from basic but practical, like Riverside Campsite (£20 pn, hot showers for £1), to disappointing, such as Dalesbridge (£38 pn, flooded pitches, cold showers) and High Laning in Dent (31.50 pn, cramped pitches, restrictive EHU rules, and extra charges). York Caravan Park stood out for its pristine facilities and luxurious showers but came with a hefty £48 pn price tag and limited EHU. We’ve realized that in winter, comfort matters more—heated facilities, unlimited EHU, and reliable showers are non-negotiable. Going forward, we’ll likely opt for premium sites to ensure a hassle-free stay. What are your winter camping essentials?

Read more about our campsite in this trip Read more about the campsites on this trip here

Stay tuned for more road trips with Gandalf the VW as we explore the UK and beyond! 🚐✨

#YorkshireDales #VanLifeAdventures #NewYearTrip #MalhamCove #SkiptonCastle #RibbleheadViaduct #DentVillage #VanLife

Adventures up North 2024- Whitby to Newcastle

Part 1 – Whitby up to Newcastle

Gandalf is sat up on the cliff top, about a mile outside of Whitby with sea views ahead and we can even see the Abbey. We’re nestled at Whitby Holiday park– somewhere we visited way back in 2010 in our first ever Motorhome. The appeal to return was the sea view pitches and despite it being a last minute booking, we were pleased to bagsie the last premium sea view pitch on site for a couple of days to kick start our summer 2024.

At £41 pn, it’s verging on the most expensive site we’ve stayed on, but we decided to have a blow out as the forcast looked good and we really fancied a sea view within walking distance to the very delicious Whitby Brewing company!

On arrival therefore we were a bit ticked off to discover that the holiday park implements strict parking guidelines – even more rigorous than C&MC and that we’d loose out sea view immediately because we had to park with our living area on the left even though we were on the end of the row. This unfortunately meant that the whole of the front of our van – which is blocked off by our screen protectors when on site had the sea view and the view out of the sliding door went straight into the side of next doors caravan. Our view when on site is out of the back so ideally we need to reverse in! Not such a problem on a normal rate site- but to pay £41 pn and not get the view was galling. Luckily, after a bit of negotiation with the site they agreed and allowed us to reverse in. We wouldn’t have suggested it if our living. Area would then have opened onto someone else’s pitch- Don’t get me wrong- I understand the need for rules like this and I’m sure for every considerate camper there are 2 or 3 non considerate campers. For people like my dad and stepum who have an A class continental van, this would be a huge disappointment because if you’re booking to stay on a premium sea view pitch but then have to reverse on – which is what they’d have had to have done- their a class windows would have been the wrong way around! I think the site is designed for caravans rather than motorhomes / campers.

Aside from this gripe, the site met our needs- the location is excellent and the showers, whilst a little dated, were clean and provided ample hot water.

Our first night was literally spent just chilling in the van. We did have a leg stretch up to Whitby Brewery – approx a mile along the very good quality coastal path. This section is flat and accessible and affords terrific views of Whitby abbey.

The views of Whitby Abbey from the brewery are excellent too. We both enjoyed a couple of Whitby lagers and I had a Whitby gin.

Once back at Gandalf we enjoyed a fish bbq before an early night.

Thursday dawned with beautiful blue skies. We had lovely lazy morning before decided to don our walking boots and head for a wander down the coastal path south of Whitby.

You can follow this path for 5.5 miles to Robin Hoods bay then transfer back via bus, however since we visited RHB recently we diverted off the path at Hawkser – in time for a quick pint at the pub there. We then picked up the Cinder trail- a great disused railway now turned cycle and foot path back to Whitby. Again the cinder trail is a great way to get between Robin Hoods Bay and Whitby and is traffic free and flat the whole way with lots of cool railway features along the way.

Back in Whitby, we stopped at the Middle Earth Tavern for a quick drink- Gollum enticed us in!

Then Keefy went to visit the Captain cook museum whilst I dog sat in The Quirky bar across the street. Luck was on my side as whilst I was there a group of musicians from Long Eaton also were there doing a jam which was exceptional.

Link to them here

Keefy enjoyed the Captain Cook museum- situated in an old house which he actually lived in. He saw a writing chest that actually went to Alaska with him along with lots of maps and other relics.

From here we made our way down the historic Grape Lane.

We may have snuck into the green dragon for another quick drink- it was very appealing! And Jazz may have woooed the barmaid and ended up getting himself on the doggie wall of fame!

We went down to the lifeboat station to see my Grandads memorial name which appears on lifeboat number 4. I found that really moving/ thanks Dad and Jenny for arranging that he would have loved it!

And then it was time for fish and chips! Hurrah. Brought from Trenches, they absolutely did not disappoint! Mind you we’d walked 10.5 miles by now!

Once back up the steps (actually we took the grade 1 listed road instead this time) we had a quick final drink at Whitby Brewery before making our way back to Gandalf. What a great day we’d had

We had a lovely road trip on Friday up from Whitby to Newcastle.

We’re about to embark on our Hadrians Wall adventure 🤞 so we kickstarted the Roman theme by stopping at Wheeldale Roman Road in North Yorkshire Moors.

We had lunch at Seaham where we enjoyed an hour looking for sea glass. Seaham has a large quantity of sea glass on its beaches due to its close proximity to The Candlish Bottle Works at Seaham which was once the biggest producers of glass in Europe and manufactured glass between 1850 and 1923. The waste glass or ‘end of day’ glass was thrown into the sea (very naughty Victorians !)

From Seaham we continued up to South Shields where we visited the Arbeia Roman Fort, a UNESCO world heritage site. This large site close to the banks of the mouth of the River Tyne was once a strategically important site for the Romans posted up here as it guarded the main flank and sea supply route to Hadrians Wall. Although no original buildings remain, the site has been restored upon original foundations and you get a very good sense of how the site would have looked. It was a dog friendly visit and more excitingly, we got our first stamps for our Hadrians Wall passport!

From here we made our way to our friends house in Newcastle where we were staying for a couple of nights to catch up.

Although we weren’t staying in Gandalf – we enjoyed a wonderful day trip up to Warkworth- we had a lovely walk on the beach and fantastic meal at the Masons Arms. We enjoyed the castle and ice creams in Amble. We even visited the beer festival in Sunderland. It was so much fun and we were looked after a treat!

Don’t panic though, we’re back on the road tomorrow and boy have we got an exciting adventure to share with you all.

“Ave atque vale” 😜

The Great Northern Roadtrip; Part 1. Norfolk – North Berwick

We had an early start on Sunday as we were keen to get to York by late morning. We had booked onto the Leeds DA THS (Temporary Holiday Site); this is a benefit of being a C&CC member, each region hosts its own THS and club meets and these tend to be on large rally fields in interesting locations at a fraction of the cost of mainstream campsites. They tend to have chemical loo disposal, bins and a water tap and can cost between £5-£15 pn.

We stayed on the Bishopsthorpe THS for one night at a cost of £15 which compared to the prices of the club site in York £40pn+ we felt was a bargain.

Bishopsthorpe is just a couple of miles south of York and linked via a very good traffic free but tarmac cycle path. It’s also got a couple of pubs and is within easy access of the solar system. Yes, you read that correctly! York University installed a few years ago, a reduced, but still accurate scale solar system trail along a disused railway path now cycle trail.

You start at the sun, which is about a mile towards York from Bishopsthorpe and then cycle through the solar system for 6 miles! It’s wonderful. Each planet has some interesting info to read and there is even a replica of Voyager 2 along the way. (Click on individual pics to make larger)

We really enjoyed our cycle along here and would totally recommend it. More info here

Having cycled the solar system, we retraced our steps so to speak back into York- which was 10 miles from Pluto 😜 all off road and the last bit took us right through the Racecourse.

We’ve been to York many times so the usual tourist places were skipped this time, our evening was spent catching up with a friend of ours over some beers in some lovely dog friendly historical establishments. We particularly enjoyed a beer in the roof garden of The Habit- which had amazing views over the Cathedral. We also had a delicious toad in the hole dinner at the Guy Fawkes inn. (Where Guy Fawkes was born)

Our York time was short and sweet this time, but it’s one of our favourite cities in the UK and if you’ve not been we’d highly recommend it.

It’s worth keeping an eye out for the THSs as it’s a much cheaper way of visiting. But there are plenty of campsites to choose from for York adventures and it is a very cycle friendly and dog friendly city.

Moving on from York, we hit the A1 north for 4 hours across the border into Scotland and arrived at North Berwick. We have passed by many times but never stopped. We had intended on staying at the THS here but bad planning on my part hadn’t appreciated how far out of N Berwick it actually was and as the weather was rainy we wanted to be closer to town so we cold enjoy some pub action.

“Wild camping” is much more tolerated in Scotland than England so we decided to bypass the THS and find ourselves a spot closer to town instead. We found a great spot on Tantallon terrace just on the outskirts of N Berwick via Park4night app and couldn’t believe our luck when we managed to get a spot which would work only for a side on small van like ours.

Jackpot!

We settled in, and had a walk into town for a few drinks. Our parking spot was free so we were keen to spend some pennies in town. We had a couple of drinks and chatted to locals in the Auld Hoose and then more drinks at the Ship, before going back to the van and drinking in the magnificent views.

Next day and we decided to stay for an additional night- the sun was shining so we offloaded our bikes and had a cycle around the local area. We looked at Tantallon castle and enjoyed the coastal views. We then made our way back into town for a delicious lunch at the Lobster shack. My north Berwick lobster and crab rolls were just Devine!

From here we made our way back to the van for a bit fat chill. It was great and we’d really enjoyed our time here. There were many vans parked up, but everyone seemed to be behaving themselves and locals didn’t seem bothered either.

After our second night we moved on further north, taking nothing but photos and leaving nothing but footprints. A perfect start to our roadtrip and great to be back in Scotland, our spiritual home

Adventures in the North East of England- using THS

Tuesday

Gandalf the VW is parked up on a rugby pitch- literally next to the goal post- on the outskirts of York. We’re on a rally field essentially, a Temporary Holiday Site (THS) ran by C&CC like a pop up campsite. There are no loos/ ehu or fancy ness- it’s a field with a tap, non and loo emptying facilities, but at £10 pn it’s a bargain and heaps cheaper than the other options for camping in York.

Our journey here from Burnley was smooth and picturesque as we crossed country via the scenic Yorkshire Dales. We pulled into site at lunchtime- in the middle of a county cricket match and had the surreal experience of driving through the cricket match to get to the rally field (the rugby field!)

Set up was quick and easy, and before we knew it we were taking the river path from the site for 20 mins on foot into the centre of York.

We’ve been to York many times, it’s a city we return regularly too and if you’ve not been it’s well worth a visit. It’s rich in history and has the unique Roman city wall walk which can be enjoyed. The shambles – a medieval street with heaps of character is like something off a pantomime set and the majestic minster is also worth a visit.

Our visit today was organised by Keefy- he was keen to visit the Yorkshire life museum as on display currently is an impressive Roman Horde called the Rydale horde. As we had Jazz with us who couldn’t go into the museum, I dog sat in a nearby bar overlooking the river.

As well as the Rydale horde, Keith enjoyed a collection of Prehistoric, Viking, Anglo Saxon and medieval artefacts, all found in York and surrounding areas. He was particularly impressed with the Anglo Saxon helmet dating from 750, considered to be the best preserved in the world and some Viking shoes. He was really impressed with the whole museum and would definitely recommend it.

Follwing this, and reunited once more, we had a quick wander through the city, doing a couple of errands as we passed through, before meeting our friend Gary for a few drinks in the evening.

Our afternoon and evening in York was brief this time, but enjoyable non the less.

Wednesday

After a quiet night on site, we packed up and hit the road at a reasonable hour. We had a 3hr journey north ahead of us- we were heading to Northumberland. We made a stop at National Trust Cragside on route. Somewhere I’d wanted to visit for some time now and thankfully it was cool enough to leave Jazz in the van whilst we went inside together.

Cragside is considered to be Britain’s first “smart home”. Living in a smart home ourselves- Keith loves his technology- I knew we’d enjoy this visit. Built by Lord Armstrong in the Victorian era, this home was carved into rock in a crag- and boasts wonderful views from every corner. But its the pioneering technology inside that makes it’s particularly interesting. Lord Armstrong developed all sorts of gadgets running inside such as hydraulic “dumb editors” – rotating hydraulic spits over the fire, underfloor and over head heating, hot water taps and the first hydroelectric light bulbs in the world.

The thing that blew me away the most was the 10 ton marble fireplace, installed in the “drawing” room – an additional wing built for a royal visit. Lord Armstrong’s pioneering technology gained interest from the Royal family and as such they paid Cragside a visit in the late 1800s. What was fascinating was the idea that their bedroom here would be more advanced than at their own royal home.

After our visit inside we took Jazz for a wander around the grounds before retrieving Gandalf and enjoying the carriage route around the grounds- a 6 mile scenic loop in the car through the grounds.

From here we made a quick stop at Alnwick, filling the fridge with supplies before arriving at our next home, Beadnell Bay THS.

This large rally field, ran by Teesside DA was another corker. Two large fields this time, right opposite a beautiful beach situated walking distance from both Beadnell village and Seahouses. Again, just £10 pn. We paid our dues for 3 nights, and went to set up.

Dinner that night was a homemade curry from home that had been packed in our freezer. We enjoyed a chill before an early night.

Thursday arrived and the weather was drizzly to begin with. We had a fairly lazy morning waiting for the weather to blow over, which it did- before making our way on foot via the gorgeous and empty beach to Seahouses.

Seahouses is a small little village with a couple of pubs, a couple of fish and chip shops, and some touristy gift shops. It’s got a pretty harbour and is know as being the gateway to the Farne islands. There are plenty of boats trips available (although we’d been organised and pre booked ours with Golden Gate).

We enjoyed a delicious lunch of crab soup- Devine! in the Olde Ship- in their beer garden overlooking the Farne Islands. The sun was shining- life was good!

At 3pm we boarded our (dog friendly) boat trip to the Farne Islands. Our boat is the only one which stops at the Indians of Longstone- with its pretty red and white lighthouse, once home to Grace Darling, which we could visit. (Keith went in- I enjoyed the view outside with Jazz).

The boat then continued around the inner and outer Farne islands where we saw lots of birds and seals. Even a couple of puffins- it’s not puffin season anymore so this was a treat!

We really enjoyed the boat trip. A lovely way to enjoy an afternoon.

Once back on dry land, we enjoyed a beer in the Bamburgh Castle pub before enjoying a fish and chip supper at the harbour (from Neptunes- they were delicious!)

We’d had a cracking day, and once back at Gandalf, we enjoyed the last rays of the day with a drink.

Friday

Today we took the bikes out for a pootle along the coastal route. We nipped down into nearby Beadnall to see the 17th century kilns on the harbour wall, before making our back past the THS to Bamburgh.

Bamburgh is home to the phenomenal Bamburgh Castle, which dominates the coastline for as far as you can see. It’s also linked to Lord Armstrong (from Cragside) as he purchased it and restored it in the late 1800s. So tied nicely in with our visit to Cragside a couple of days ago.

The views of the Farne Islands from the grounds (which are dog friendly by the way) are great and the expanse of white Sandy beach below are just stunning.

We took it in turns to go inside – I finished my book whilst Keith went in, and he had a coffee and cake whislt I went in, and both found the interior really interesting.

It was a great visit and one which we’d not planned as we didn’t think it was dog friendly even in the grounds.

We enjoyed cycling a bit beyond the village, admiring the views constantly. What a marvellous section of coast.

Back at the site and we enjoyed a prawn and avacado cocktail and spag bol for tea.

We’d really enjoyed our time here. The THS site runs from July to mid august each year and I think there is another in September. To find out about the THS’s use this link. (You need to be members of C&CC to attend)

If you’d prefer the luxury of a more formal campsite and perhaps ehu, there is a club site next door.

Gandalf had coped admirably with 4 nights off grid, we’d had a mix of weather so the solar panel didn’t get sun ALL the time. The thing with VW’s is the fridge running of the leisure battery rather than gas which is a shame and makes off grid a bit more of a challenge. Having said that, ours managed – we just ran the fridge and water pump off the solar panel and van leisure battery. We then used this – a new gadget for this trip- to charge phones and run the 12v shower, plus give us light for the evening. It worked a treat.

This area is an ideal base for a few days as there are bus stops outside the site for routes along the coast, to Alnwick or even Newcastle. So plenty to do without moving your van.

What a great time we’d had. But it was time to move on! Where next?!

Adventures on the North Yorkshire coast

Monday

Gandalf the Campervan is parked up on a wonderful “off grid” Caravan and Motorhome club CL, a small 5 van site, with no facilities or hook up (other than loo disposal and tap/bin). We’re perched on the edge of the N York Moors with views of the sea and Whitby Abby; just 4 miles away. Deneside Field is just £7 pn- what a bargain!

Our journey here today was relaxed – we set off around 10:30am and arrived just after 4pm with a couple of comfort stops. The stretch leading up to Whitby from the A1 was stunning!

We’ve got the bikes with us as this is our first stop of a 2.5 week tour of the East Coast, so set up took slightly longer but, we’re here for 3 days so we want to be comfortable on site. The weather is far better than predicted, in fact there’s not a cloud in the sky and the sea looks rather Mediterranean like!

We had a chill at the site tonight, enjoying the views and the peace and quiet- there is only one other Caravan here. Perfection! Dinner was sausage, mash and beans- a simple but tasty supper to enjoy after a long journey north.

View from site: Whitby Abby in the distance and the sea behind

We’re excited about exploring the local area as it’s been a number of years since we were last in Whitby and Robin Hoods Bay.

Tuesday

Tuesday dawned bright and beautiful; a nice surprise as the forecast wasn’t so optimistic! We had a lazy morning, enjoying the views and enjoying bacon sandwiches before prepping the bikes and hitting the road towards Whitby.

One of the draws for us to return to this area was to explore the Cinder Track, a disused railway line that runs from Scarborough to Whitby- a total distance of 21 miles. Our site isn’t directly on the Cinder track so before we could enjoy any of it we had to navigate our way to an appropriate entry point. We consulted Ordanance Survey and found a route which took in a quiet road and a bridleway, which looked appropriate. Well, let me tell you. It was not!! We ended up pushing our bikes nervously for around 1.5 miles on this hardcore mountain bike trail through a forest. The path was not suitable for us one bit, and whilst now, thinking back it seemed an adventure at the time, in reality it was bloody awful! Although it was pretty!

Luckily once we got onto the Cinder Track things dramatically improved, the surface was a dream on our electric bikes and the gradient unnoticeable.

It wasn’t far at all to Whitby but we enjoyed the scenery, a highlight was going over the Larpool Viaduct. They’re were some beautiful bridges to pass under. It had lived up to our exceptions and made the previous hour of horribleness worthwhile!

Whitby was heaving! Properly busy! Too busy to enjoy if I’m honest; although that’s perhaps a bit harsh as we had a lovely day. It’s just we’ve not been around that volume of people for so long- I found it a bit scary! The weather gods were on our side though, we enjoyed blue skies and a gentle breeze.

We had a fish and chip lunch from Papas, not the famous Magpie- although Papas was named the best fish and chips in UK according to a recent BBC competition. (They were goooood!)

We washed the fish and chips down with a couple of drinks over looking the harbour, before tackling the 199 stairs up to the Abby. The Abby is English Heritage and fairly pricey to get in at £13 pp (free for members) instead we enjoyed a Whitby lager at the tap house and brewery opposite which has brilliant views of the Abby. It always makes me laugh on the stairs at Whitby… ALL you can hear is people around you either counting the steps or discussing if it is indeed 199 or is it 197 (or any other number for that matter!)

After an ice cream at the bottom of the steps we collected our bikes – we’d parked them by Papas fish and chip bar- and made our way back to Gandalf. This time we continued to Hawkser on the Cinder Track before exiting and taking a quiet road route back to our campsite- 2.5 miles of hills, some steep, but our E bikes were TREMENDOUS!

Tonight is spent having a chill – enjoying the non rain!

Wednesday

For the first time in what’s seems an age, we slept in until 09:15 this morning! It was a little showery so we decided not to rush about, which was nice not to be working to a timescale for once. We set off from the campsite around 11ish – on the bikes towards Hawsker to pick up the Cinder track once more. We took the road route and as we’re not on hook up, turned our bike batteries off, choosing to save the battery for the homeward journey later. We therefore pedalled our way up down, up down etc to the cinder track- feeling very proud of ourselves when we reached it!

Our recommended route to the Cinder Track from Deneside Field CL

The cinder track to Robin Hoods Bay is only 3 miles and it’s a glorious section, with sea views dominating the majority of the journey. There was a steep cut bank at one point, making it easy to imagine trains travelling along here from 1885 to 1965 when the line was frequented by trains carrying goods and passengers along the Scarborough to Whitby line.

Cinder Track Leaflet

We found bike parking easily in Robin Hoods Bay so made our way by foot down the hill to the sea front. We love Robin Hoods Bay; it’s been a number of years since our last visit, and it was just as nice as we remembered. The quaint fisherman’s cottages line the street and the non tacky shops with just a couple of pubs, tea rooms and b and bs are right up our street.

The weather was behaving beautifully and we enjoyed a drink in front of the Bay Inn- the official end of the Coast to Coast walk, overlooking the cliffs towards Scarborough.

After a crab roll from the local fish shop on the beach, we took emergency cover as a thunderstorm passed over us.

Luckily this coincided with the Smugglers, a 400 year old very atmospheric dog friendly wine bar, opening so we took shelter inside, until the rain stopped and we could make our way back to the bikes and onwards back home.

We retraced our steps following the cinder track back to Hawsker and then gleefully switched on our batteries to get us back to Gandalf – up down, up down etc etc.

Dinner was a delicious chicken curry before a night of relaxation and enjoying the view for one final night

Tomorrow we move on north to Edinburgh. We’ve absolutely loved our time here- especially enjoying being off grid, and relying solely on solar power has felt liberating actually. The site is wonderful, and whilst there is a bit of road noise (mainly farm traffic) it does quieten down after dark. The views towards Whitby and the sea are gorgeous. It’s perhaps not the best places for the Cinder Track, but we’ve managed well. There are a couple of other sites directly on the track which were full when we were making reservations. Having said that we’ve really loved this site, and armed with either a car, or electric bikes you really can enjoy the local area easily, and cheaply- and remember it’s just £7pn!

Until Next Time

Lx

Adventures on The Trans Pennine Trail

Gandalf the VW is parked high up above the Trans Pennine Trail, overlooking Wogden Moor on the outskirts of Carlecotes, South Yorkshire.  Our home for the next three nights is Thurlmoor Farm, a Camping and Caravanning Club Certified Site.

We had a pleasant and easy journey ‘oooop north’ on Friday morning making one slight detour to pick up some supplies from the wonderful Hinchcliff’s Farm shop near Holmfirth. We had lots of fun shopping for local meats, cheeses, local gins and beers to see us through the May Bank Holiday weekend. This place is heaven for local food and drink lovers like ourselves, and we could have easily bought EVERY thing inside. The butchers and deli counters were immense, and the local gins were in abundant supply.

With our supplies purchased and packed away we made the 20 minute journey to the campsite, arriving around 3pm- just as the sun decided to take over from the showers we’d encounter throughout our journey.

The views from Thurlmoor Farm are wonderful. It is situated at 1100 feet and landscaped into two separate terraces. We were given a very friendly welcome by campsite owner Mandy and we were excited to be able to pitch up sideways. We took advantage of the room and set our the canopy as well as our trusty friend the tailgate awning – serving as our ensuite bathroom this weekend again! There are no facilities other than hook up, water and disposal at this site and as such the fee was very low at just £13 pn. The views were just great and we could see in the valley below us the Trans Pennine Trail – our reason for booking this site. 

Unfortunately – our neighbours ended up pitching their caravan very much on top of us. I’m not entirely sure it was their fault- pitches wernt marked and at the same time they arrived another van arrived the other side of them. We assumed someone would be coming the other side of us, otherwise we probably would have asked to moved to pitch number 1- which would have left a pitch between us. But as it happened no-one else arrived and the van the other side of our neighbours only stayed one night – so with perhaps a little more planning from the owners it could have been avoided. As it happens though our neighbours were fairly quiet – it just looks obscene on pictures given how much other space there was in the camping field! We were aware of them and I’m sure they were aware of us too. Hey ho – it could have been worse!

Zoom in to see the caravan next to Gandalf!

We had little wander down the local footpath, and a sundowner drink lower on the campsite, a natural slope made a perfect private terrace overlooking the sheep fields, before reheating a spag bol on the cadac for dinner on Friday night. Whilst it was bright and sunny, the wind was fresh, but we managed to cook and eat outside. We were very happy campers indeed! 

No walkable pubs from the site right now, so I came prepared with a little help from the farm shop we stopped at beforehand!

Saturday dawned bright and cool and after a full English with goodies from our farm shop haul, we hit the road on our bikes. We cycled 1.4 miles (very much downhill) to nearby Dunford Bridge, which is where we picked up the Trans Pennine Trail. The Trans Pennine Trail is a mainly traffic free Recreational route which spans from Southport on the West Coast to Hornsea on the East Coast. It’s a staggering 215 miles long, runs mainly traffic free and largely follows the route of old railway lines, canals and riversides. The section that we were tackling this weekend ran from Dunford Bridge to Thurgoland – a distance of around 10 miles, all off road, all level* and all very scenic and lovely. It is worth noting that there is a car park at Dunford Bridge if you don’t fancy the ascent back up to the campsite. The reason we had been drawn to this section in particular was the impressive Thurgoland Tunnels, which we’d seen on a tv programme a while back.

We easily settled in to the ride from Dunford Bridge – the route very obviously following an old disused railway like, with steep gauges either side at times, and many original railway bridges to pass under.

We passed by Penistone and soon we arrived at our main feature, the Thurgoland Tunnel; a double bored disused railway tunnel that is 282 metres in length. It has a distinct 4000 foot radius curve which gives it unique 20+ second echo inside. Acoustically its really REALLY cool, and we loved messing around inside making sounds and clapping, listening to the long acoustic reverberating echoes. I wished I had taken my sax! Although it is double bore – one of the tunnels has been blocked in, so now you can only access one of the two tunnels.

See video of our experience in the tunnel… 

About a mile or two on from the tunnel, we grabbed a pint at the Bridge Inn, before retracing our route back to the campsite. *The return route was harder by far. We thought we were unfit perhaps – this was our first cycle out for months. As the miles dragged on we became more and worried about the big hill back to the campsite! When we got back, my tracker revealed that actually we had done 10 miles downhill and 10 miles up. No wonder we struggled – but the beauty of tramline engineering is that these gradients are disguised very well and whilst they are gradual, we definitely noticed this one. Thats our excuse for our struggle anyway!!

A refreshment stop at Penistone* gave us that last push we needed and although it was a much slower return, we made it up that hill and back to the campsite by 4pm. We loved the route and were proud to have totted up 20.6 miles. You can see our route video below.

*There is a terrific taproom and brewery in Penistone where we picked up some lovely locally made lager.

It’s worth mentioning, you can still access this spectacular tunnel if you don’t cycle. There is a bus stop immediately outside the campsite which takes/ brings you back to Thurgoland on the number 29 bus every day except Sunday /and bank hol- Timetable here. You could walk 10 miles along the TPT and bus back, or you could bus there and bus back. Either way you do it, if you have an interest in railway history, cool places etc etc, its worth a visit and this site is one of the closest you’ll get to the Thurgoland Tunnel. 

After showers in the awning, we settled into Gandalf for the evening, enjoying a delicious Barnsley chop dinner (Fillet Steak for Keefy) before a relatively early night. Barnsley Chop in Barnsley…. my month is made already! 

Sunday arrived and we had a slightly lazier start to the day. The weather was still clear, despite being a bit blowy and fresh, and after a scrambled egg breakfast we donned our walking boots and walked to nearby Winscar Reservoir, then back down to the TPT at Dunford Bridge before returning to the site along (or rather up!) a farm land footpath. The reservoir was worth seeing, we enjoyed watching some of the boats from the local sailing club and it was really nice to see so many families out and about. We also were serenaded by Lapwings which was lovely.

Are we nearly there yet?!

After our walk we enjoyed delicious baked Camembert, cooked in my Lakeland Remoska which I still use most days in the Campervan!

Later on we had a bbq for dinner in front of the fire pit – but my gosh it was cold! We couldn’t soak enough of the view up – we’ve really missed hills and high ground during lockdown. Luckily with the terraced positioning of the site we were able to move inside and enjoy the view just as much in the warmth of Gandalf for our final night of this adventure.

All too soon it was time to pack up on Monday morning, but we made an early start and as such missed the horrific rain and wind on both packing up and arriving home. Bonus! We had hoped to make a stop at National Trust’s Wentworth Castle Gardens but the weather god’s had been kind enough during the weekend and our luck ran out on that front.

We really loved this site, and would not hesitate to recommend it to you all. It has no facilities at all, other than EHU and waste and water, and sadly there are no walkable pubs (although this may change if the local one – about a mile away reopens later this month).  But if you like peace and quiet, and nice views this one is for you. The bus route outside will take you to Sheffield in one direction (thats the way you need for Thurgoland) and Holmfirth in the other. Electric bikes would probably be an advantage here – these are the next thing on our shopping list. 

The Atera Strada bike rack had it’s first outing on Gandalf and worked a treat, as did our tailgate awning shower set up. We returned home from BH weekend refreshed and happy after a brilliant weekend away! 

Until Next Time 

Lx 

Adventures in Bronte Country; Haworth , Yorkshire

Ruby the VW is parked on her lonesome, at a Topfield, a Camping and Caravanning club Certified (5 van) site on the outskirts of Haworth.

The owners suggested we park sideways to accommodate our rear awning

We had a smooth journey from Norfolk north although it rained most of the time this didn’t bother us as we were driving. As we neared Haworth our farm shop radar kicked in and without even looking for it we happened upon a large and well established farm shop, Robertshaws. We made a stop and gave the budget a hammering filling Ruby with lots of local produce, ales and gin.

When we arrived we had a quick set up and set our stall outside and had a cheeseboard and ploughman’s for a late lunch. After a chill at the campsite the weather improved so we went for a wander to the town of Haworth. It took about 30 mins but was mainly down hill so we decided to investigate taxis for our return! We enjoyed a lovely drink in one of Haworth’s oldest building, Haworth Old Hall, before moving up the picturesque high street to The Kings Head. We had a final drink in the Fleece Inn (recommended to us by a VW Camper Chick) and eyeing up the menu made a decision to eat here tomorrow.

We got our cab back (£5) and heated up a Spag Bol I’d brought from our freezer at home before crashing out for the night.

Tuesday dawned with mixed weather but it wasn’t going to stop us. Today we were walking the Bronte way taking in some famous Bronte Sights along the way! After a full English we loaded some snacks into a backpack and off we went, back down the hill into Haworth, and back up the gorgeous high street to the old school rooms where the Bronte sisters went to school, taught at and even had their wedding reception at. We passed their graves and went pat their family home- sadly due to covid the museum was closed.

We picked up the Bronte Way and walked about 2 miles across Penistone Hill to the Bronte Falls. The weather was mixed- one minute pouring with rain and the next glorious sunshine. The views were beautiful!

At the Bronte Falls I was trying to get a great shot when disaster happened! I lost my footing and ended up IN the Bronte Falls! 🤦‍♀️😂 luckily I didn’t injure myself but my phone got the brunt of it and sadly died on me two hours later – I smashed the LCD screen.

We enjoyed seeing Bronte Falls and the Bronte bridge despite that not being the original one as that washed away some years ago.

The walk continued up to Top Withers; said to possibly be the inspiration for Wuthering Heights. Regardless of whether it was or wasn’t, it was a spectacular walk and the ruin of the farm house a good insight into remote farm houses.

Following a shower!

At this point we joined the Pennine Way back to Stanbury, where we popped into both the local pubs (the Friendly was the better of the two IMO) and mourned my phone breaking! We continued back to Haworth in time for a quick drink at the Steam Work Brewing for a local gin and a local lager. I could have stayed there all night working my way through their comprehensive gin menu- all made in Haworth! But sadly their licensing meant they had to close at 6pm. We had one across the road in the Black Bull before going and grabbing the last table at the Fleece for dinner. The meal was terrific and we’d certainly worked up an appetite.

By half 8pm we were back at Ruby where we complete crashed out! We’d thoroughly enjoyed our time here despite me trashing my phone! It is so incredibly beautiful and the small town oodles character.

Wednesday dawned sunny which was good as it was time to pack up and love on to our next location. Via an o2 shop to sort myself out with a new phone!

Until next time

Lx

Hop