Escape to the Yorkshire Dales: A New Year Adventure in Gandalf the VW

We kicked off 2025 in the best way possible, spending a week exploring the stunning Yorkshire Dales in our trusty camper van, Gandalf. From canal-side walks and dramatic limestone landscapes to hearty pub meals and cozy van nights, it was a New Year’s adventure to remember.

Day 1–3: Cononley, Gargrave & Skipton

Our journey began in the quaint village of Cononley, where we parked up at Riverside Campsite for three nights. This peaceful spot made a great base for exploring, and we wasted no time getting acquainted with the village’s two pubs—essential research, of course!

The next day, a short £5 return train journey whisked us to Gargrave, a picture-perfect village. After a delicious Yorkshire tapas lunch at The Masons Arms, we set off on a 5-mile canal walk along the Leeds & Liverpool Canal to Skipton. Low clouds couldn’t dull the charm of this scenic route. Once in Skipton, we celebrated with pints at The Woolly Sheep before returning to the van for a homemade curry.

The following day, we opted for another canal-side walk, this time from Cononley to Skipton. We explored Skipton’s cobbled streets, popped into the dog-friendly Skipton Castle, and enjoyed drinks at The Castle Inn. It was another great day and we really loved Skipton and the immediate surrounding areas.

Day 4: Malham’s Natural Wonders

Next, we moved campsites and en route couldn’t resist heading into Malham, where we embarked on a classic and well loved 5.5-mile walk through some of the Dales’ most iconic landmarks. Malham Cove, with its dramatic cliffs, awesome limestone pavement, and natural amphitheater formed by a prehistoric waterfall, was a highlight. From there, we visited Gordale Scar, an impressive gorge shaped by ancient glaciers. It was an unforgettable day of awe-inspiring scenery despite the absolute howling wind! After our Malham day, we continued the short distance to our next Campsite, and home for the next 3 nights, Dalesbridge Campsite.

Day 5–6: New Year’s Eve at Dalesbridge

We welcomed New Year’s Eve at the Dalesbridge Campsite, where torrential rain and gusty winds didn’t dampen our spirits. Instead, we took the opportunity to just stop and unwind, leaning into the slow paced van life vibes with board games, festive food, and plenty of wine. Our New Year’s menu included a prawn cocktail starter, cheese boards, butcher’s steaks from Skipton, and even a bottle of Châteauneuf-du-Pape.

The night was cozy despite the less-than-ideal campsite conditions (muddy pitches, huge site wide drainage issue, horrendous showers and noisy neighbours). We weren’t fans of the campsite at all, despite being steeped with history (a former Scarlett Fever hospital) the place seemed run down and not our sort of place at all. The highlight? Catching a glimpse of the Northern Lights on NYD.

Day 7: Dent & Ribblehead Viaduct

Our final stop was the charming village of Dent, known for its cobbled streets and picturesque setting. A detour due to road closures led us to the iconic Ribblehead Viaduct, where we captured stunning drone shots of the towering arches against the rugged Dales landscape. We also made a stop at Dent station, the highest mainline station in England.

In Dent, we took a peaceful but stunning 3-mile walk around Dentdale before winding down with a couple of drinks at the cozy George and Dragon pub. We’d have liked to have visited historic The Sun Inn, but like our last visit 5 years ago, it was closed! Dinner was a delicious Beef stew that had been cooking in slow cooker and was perfect considering it was -5 outside! Though High Laning Campsite was basic and a bit overpriced, the charm of Dent made up for it. Of we return, we’d pick Mill Beck CL over High Laning, which is a basic Certified site which offers much more space at a fraction of the price, but it would have to be during the summer months.

Final Stop: A Night in York

Before heading home, we couldn’t resist spending a Friday night in York, one of our favorite cities. We had been booked into the C&MC club site but it got cancelled due to flooding. So we stayed at York Caravan Park, an adults-only site with top-notch showers and easy access to the city via the late into the evening-running Coastliner bus.

Our evening began at the historic Black Swan Inn, known for its timber-framed charm and ghostly reputation. We visited the Roman Bath museum, situated underneath a pub! And took a stroll down the cobbled Shambles, such tourists, but we love it there, so we stopped for drinks in two historic taverns down The Shambles before meeting up with our pal Gary for dinner at his local.

We rounded out the night with pints at The Blue Boar, famously linked to Dick Turpin, (after his trial and execution for horse theft in 1739, his body was laid to rest in the cellar of this pub for public viewing!) and finished at The Three-Legged Mare, which hosts a lively Friday folk music night. The welcoming atmosphere (and dog-friendly vibe!) made it the perfect end to our trip.

Final Thoughts

From the dramatic limestone cliffs of Malham Cove to the charm of Skipton’s cobbled streets, the Yorkshire Dales delivered unforgettable scenery, cozy pubs, and a true sense of escape. Even the rain couldn’t dampen the magic of our New Year adventure.

Winter camping in a VW campervan comes with unique challenges. Campsites ranged from basic but practical, like Riverside Campsite (£20 pn, hot showers for £1), to disappointing, such as Dalesbridge (£38 pn, flooded pitches, cold showers) and High Laning in Dent (31.50 pn, cramped pitches, restrictive EHU rules, and extra charges). York Caravan Park stood out for its pristine facilities and luxurious showers but came with a hefty £48 pn price tag and limited EHU. We’ve realized that in winter, comfort matters more—heated facilities, unlimited EHU, and reliable showers are non-negotiable. Going forward, we’ll likely opt for premium sites to ensure a hassle-free stay. What are your winter camping essentials?

Read more about our campsite in this trip Read more about the campsites on this trip here

Stay tuned for more road trips with Gandalf the VW as we explore the UK and beyond! 🚐✨

#YorkshireDales #VanLifeAdventures #NewYearTrip #MalhamCove #SkiptonCastle #RibbleheadViaduct #DentVillage #VanLife

The Challenges of Winter Camping in a VW Campervan: Lessons Learned in the Yorkshire Dales

Winter camping in a small VW campervan like ours can be an incredible adventure, but it comes with unique challenges—especially when it comes to campsites. On our recent trip to the Yorkshire Dales, we were reminded how much our winter camping needs differ from the warmer months. Decent electric hook-up (EHU), hot showers, and practical site layouts become non-negotiable when you’re braving freezing temperatures in a tiny van.

Here’s our honest review of the campsites we stayed at, what worked, what didn’t, and how we’re rethinking our winter camping strategy going forward.

Riverside Campsite, Cononley

💰 £20 per night (plus £1 for showers)

✅ Pros: Great location, good EHU, and decent value for money.

❌ Cons: A bit basic and tatty; showers were hot but very simple.

Despite its rough edges, this was actually the most practical site for us. For £20 a night, we could forgive the £1 shower charge, and the site’s good location and fair pricing made it a solid choice for our needs.

Dalesbridge Campsite, Austwick

💰 £37 per night (includes EHU and showers) plus £1pn for the pooch.

✅ Pros: No additional charges for EHU or showers.

❌ Cons: Freezing cold showers, drainage issues, and a generally run-down feel.

This one was a disappointment. Torrential rain exposed poor drainage, turning most pitches and walkways into flooded swamps. The showers were awful (cold and unclean), and it felt like the site was prioritizing profits over the experience, selling pitches that were clearly unsuitable. Our pitch was hard standing, but those on grass pitches were in trouble and most had to be towed off. Surely these pitches shouldn’t be sold over winter months. A shame, as the potential of the site could be great, but for us, it just didn’t deliver. Not really any easy options for Public transport here either.

Before the rain came!

High Laning Campsite, Dent

💰 £29.50 per night (plus 50p showers and £2 per dog pn)

✅ Pros: Beautiful views, close to Dent village.

❌ Cons: Cramped, rough pitches and restrictive EHU rules.

The “premium hard-standing pitches” were more like a car park, and we were frustrated by the strict EHU guidelines—warnings about fan heaters and kettles tripping the power felt excessive (though we used a heater with no issues). The 50p shower charge on top of the already steep price felt stingy, and the £2 dog fee added to the feeling that we were being nickel-and-dimed. That said, Dent is a stunning village, and as the only year-round site in the area, they have little competition.

York Caravan Park

💰 £48 per night (includes £3 EHU allowance, £2 per dog)

✅ Pros: Excellent location, pristine facilities, and the best showers we’ve ever had!

❌ Cons: High price and limited EHU allowance.

This was the most expensive site of our trip, but it delivered in terms of quality. The site was immaculate, with manicured pitches and truly luxurious showers. However, the £3 daily EHU allowance felt stingy—especially during sub-zero temperatures when running a fan heater was essential. Paying £48 per night and still worrying about topping up EHU was a letdown, and the £2 dog fee added to the frustration.

Winter Camping Reflections

Winter camping has reminded us that comfort becomes a bigger priority in colder weather. Going forward, we’re leaning towards higher-end sites—like Caravan and Motorhome Club locations—where £50 per night includes unlimited EHU, heated facilities, and guaranteed clean, hot showers.

We’re learning that not all campsites are created equal, especially in winter, and sometimes paying more for a hassle-free stay is worth it. Also, not all campsites resemble their images and write ups from their website making planning more of a challenge as we start to doubt the literature we’re presented with on websites before we book.

What About You?

How do you handle winter camping in a campervan? Have you found any campsites that hit the sweet spot for comfort, value, and facilities? Drop your recommendations—we’d love to hear about your winter camping gems!

Stay tuned for more adventures with Gandalf the VW as we explore the UK and beyond! 🚐✨

#VanLife #WinterCamping #CampervanAdventures #YorkshireDales