After leaving Fort William, our plan was simple: take the Corran Ferry, then head towards Lochaline for the regular, no-reservations ferry to Mull.
Unfortunately, the Corran Ferry was out of action for repairs, which sent us on a long but stunning detour — over 60 miles of winding single-track roads. It was slow going, but the scenery made it worthwhile, with lochs shimmering in the sun and even a majestic stag appearing along the way. We even got to see Fort William from the other side of the loch!
By the time we reached the Lochaline ferry, we’d missed the morning sailings, so we caught the first crossing after lunch. Just £16 for the motorhome, two adults, and a dog — and 18 minutes later we rolled onto the Isle of Mull.
Fidden Farm – Front Row to Paradise
From the ferry, it was another two hours of single-track driving before we reached Fidden Farm Campsite. This no-reservations spot is vast, right on the water’s edge, with jaw-dropping sea views. We managed to bag a front-row pitch and couldn’t believe our luck.
It’s simple camping — no electric hook-up — but it does have showers, toilets, and a washing-up area. If you’re happy to go off-grid, it’s the perfect base. The wind was howling, but we were under clear blue skies, so nothing could dampen our spirits. Dinner that night was local beef burgers with new potatoes and salad — delicious followed by a stunning sunset.
Friday – A Slow Day in Fionnphort
We declared it a duvet day, staying in bed until after 11 reading and recharging, before cooking up a hearty brunch.
Then we wandered the mile or so into Fionnphort, a tiny village with a shop, pub, craft stores, and the ferry terminal for the Isle of Iona.
We enjoyed a pint and a Tobermory whisky in the pub, booked a trip to Staffa for a couple of days time , and strolled back for a Scottish cheese board, another dram, and chicken fajitas for dinner. We were exceptionally chilled here!
Saturday – Cycling to Iona
The morning started with a gentle bike ride along a loop from the campsite to Fionnphort, almost entirely on quiet lanes or off-road tracks.
From there, we boarded the 10-minute ferry to Iona — £5 return per person, free for bikes and dogs. With just 170 residents and no tourist cars allowed, Iona is peaceful and green, its coastline scattered with white sand beaches. The hills have a rugged beauty, a little like the Peak District.
We explored the island, browsed the small larder for local treats (including a small bottle of Iona gin), and enjoyed drinks in the Argyll Hotel’s beer garden, which might just have the best beer garden view in Scotland. On returning to Mull, we grabbed haddock and chips from the Creel Seafood Bar — without a doubt the best fish and chips we’ve had.
Sunday – Staffa: A Lifelong Wish
It was hard to leave Fidden Farm — £12 per person per night felt like a bargain for somewhere this special — but we had one more adventure before totally leaving the area.
Leaving Gandalf in Fionnphort, we boarded a Staffa Tours boat to the Isle of Staffa. They welcome dogs, and on the way, we spotted a pod of dolphins.
As we approached Fingal’s Cave, the crew played an extract from Mendelssohn’s Hebrides Overture — music I’ve loved since A-level music class over 20 years ago. I’ll admit, I cried. A lot!
Landing on Staffa, we explored the cave, its towering basalt columns echoing with the crash of waves. The geology is similar to the Giant’s Causeway, but the atmosphere is something else entirely. For me, it was utterly magical. During the June – July this is a great spot for watching puffins. Although this makes it more complicated with taking dogs during this period. Today however we did see a lone puffin on the sea bobbing away. Apparently a rare sighting for this time of year. The trip to Staffa/ Fingal’s Cave was absolutely brilliant – and a huge tick off my bucket list. We wholeheartedly recommend this tour.
Tobermory & Farewell Mull
Once back on Mull, we drove north to Tobermory, with its colourful harbourfront houses. After a look around we picked up some Tobermory gin and whisky, then continued to Salen Bay Campsite for our final night.
Salen Bay campsite isn’t quite our cup of tea, however it was always going to struggle after such an idyllic time at Fidden. There are views over the sea and the showers are hot and clean. However our pitch- a grass pitch with electric- it’s very uneven but worse- is close to a party of people in tents and there is just not much room between us – plus they’re loud! Also we’re getting fed up with people totally disregarding our pitch space by using it as a cut through to the nearby amenities block. Had we have been sat outside with the bbq going we’d have likely had to have said something but as it happens we’re cosy in the van so not such a problem.
We needed electric tonight though and it’s raining so we can’t complain- we’re plugged in, warm and had sausage and mash for tea! There are however some nice pitches on the site – the electric hard standing look nicer than the grass pitch we opted for. It’s close to the ferry ports so works well for a first or last stop.
Mull gave us everything we hoped for — and more. Wild beauty, wonderful wildlife, and one of the most scenic spots we’ve camped at. The wind may have been relentless at times, but it kept the midges away. We’re leaving as the weather turns, following the sunshine elsewhere else, but Mull has left its mark and I’m gutted to be leaving.
