This Easter, we set off on a journey that took us from the UK all the way to the sun-soaked heel of Italy—and back again—with Gandalf the campervan as our faithful home on wheels. In just a few weeks, we experienced a rich blend of dramatic coastlines, ancient cities, quiet countryside, and unforgettable moments that made this one of our most memorable road trips to date.
We kicked things off with a brisk, 48 hour drive through France and into northern Italy, pausing to admire the medieval charm of Troyes and the glassy beauty of Lake Annecy. With blue skies and mountain views, it was the perfect place to stretch our legs and cycle along the lakeside before crossing into Italy through the spectacular Alpine passes.
Once in Italy, our first major stop was the Cinque Terre—a cluster of five vibrant cliffside villages on the Ligurian coast. Parked up high in Levanto, we set out on foot and by train and bike to explore the picture-perfect towns, each with its own character. From colourful harbours to dramatic coastal paths, this stretch of the Italian Riviera stole our hearts and set the tone for the adventures to come.
Further south, we immersed ourselves in history with a stay near Pompeii, where we explored the haunting ruins of the ancient Roman city frozen in time. A day trip to Naples added a burst of urban energy—and a few slices of truly unbeatable pizza.
Our route then led us to the sun-drenched region of Puglia, where whitewashed towns, olive groves, and coastal beauty unfolded before us. We wandered through Alberobello’s fairytale trulli houses, explored the historic charm of Lecce, and loved every second. Puglia felt like a peaceful pause in the journey—authentic, unspoiled, and deeply relaxing.
Eventually, we made our way north into the rolling hills of Tuscany, and the pace picked up again—along with the romance. From the cliffside elegance of Pienza, where we witnessed a spontaneous proposal, to the medieval towers of San Gimignano and the awe-inspiring architecture of Florence, Tuscany delivered in every way. The food, the views, the light—everything felt timeless.
Throughout the journey, we balanced bustling sightseeing days with quiet evenings cooking in the van, sipping local wine, and soaking in sunsets from campsites with views. From ancient ruins to seaside serenity, cityscapes to vineyard-covered hills, this Easter road trip was a perfect mix of adventure, culture, and relaxation.
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We covered some serious ground on our latest leg—about 600 km heading north through Italy!
The journey included another UNESCO stop, some wild weather, and even a surprise Lamborghini police car. Here’s a look at our latest adventures, from ancient ruins to picture-perfect Tuscan towns.
A Rainy Detour into Roman Grandeur: Hadrian’s Villa, Tivoli
From our last campsite in Puglia, we made the long journey north towards Tuscany, with a leg stretch stop just outside Rome, at the ruins of Villa Adriana (Hadrian’s Villa) in Tivoli—a UNESCO World Heritage Site that completely exceeded expectations. This sprawling Roman complex once belonged to Emperor Hadrian, and walking through it today feels like stepping into a piece of ancient opulence. The remaining walls tower above you, hinting at what must’ve been an extraordinarily grand and luxurious retreat. We spent just over 2 hours exploring the site which worked well as a leg stretch. Happily the horrendous rain we’d encountered on our journey so far paused during our visit too.
Just before we arrived at Tivoli, something truly surreal happened: we were overtaken by an Italian police car—but not just any police car. A Lamborghini. Flashing lights and all, it pulled up beside us in full dramatic fashion. Turns out, the Italian police actually use Lamborghinis for transporting organs and emergencies—isn’t that amazing! Certainly the poshest emergency vehicle we’ve ever seen!
Tuscany Welcomes Us—with a Proposal!
After Tivoli, we continued north, hoping for those iconic Tuscan views to greet us, and the rain which had restarted to stop once more —and we were not disappointed. The rain stopped, and the rolling hills and golden light welcomed us practically the second we turned off the motorway! The views were everything we’d imagined. Our destination was Pienza, another UNESCO-listed gem perched high on a cliff, overlooking the Val d’Orcia countryside.
The road up to Pienza
We rolled in late (for us!) and found a perfect overnight spot—just €6 for a car park right next to the old town.
As we settled in and walked into a bar with panoramic views, something magical happened.
First, the French man took this photo of us…..
A French traveler, who had just taken a photo for us, asked if we could film something. Moments later, he was down on one knee, proposing to his girlfriend—right in front of us.
What a place for a proposalThe view from our bar terrace A magical evening (this was taken seconds before the proposal)
It was completely spontaneous, incredibly romantic, and yes—she said yes! We toasted with champagne with the couple, who we enjoyed getting to know, and couldn’t believe our luck to witness such a beautiful moment! What a welcome to Tuscany. We wish Jérémy and Alexandra all the very best ❤️
We spent the rest of the evening wandering through Pienza, soaking in its charm. The quiet streets, warm light, and sweeping views over the Val d’Orcia made it feel like a scene from a postcard. It’s without a doubt one of Tuscany’s true gems.
Day Two: From Movie Scenes to Medieval Streets
After such a dreamy first day, Tuscany kept the magic coming. We had a short drive ahead—just 75 miles—but with a few important missions: a visit to the vet for Jazz (our dog) and a trip to see one of our favorite film locations.
Driving through the Val d’Orcia, we passed the landscape made famous by Gladiator—specifically the villa and fields of Maximus’ farm and farm house. The sweeping countryside really does feel cinematic, and we could see how it inspired Ridley Scott.
From Gladiator: Russell Crowe’s farm land And his farm house
We arrived at our campsite near San Gimignano, another UNESCO World Heritage Site. After a chilled afternoon at the van (aka Trattoria Gandolfino after some delicious pasta meals recently cooked inside), we strolled into town just before sunset.
The campsite was a great strategic position for visiting San Gimignano, as it was on the outskirts, so nice and quiet, but had a shuttle running to and from town every half an hour for €1.30 pp. There is also a pavement the whole walk into town and the roads were quiet enough for bikes too. We made use of the shuttle!
San Gimignano is famous for its medieval towers, and the 14th-century frescos in its cathedral have their own UNESCO status, and are some of the most complete we’ve seen.
We ended our evening with wild boar sausages and local wine—Tuscan living at its finest.
While we both slightly preferred Pienza for its romantic charm, San Gimignano held its own as a must-visit spot.
Final Stop: Fabulous Florence!
Visiting Florence was a certainty, but we hadn’t decided how we were going to do it. I think we both thought we make use of one of the sostas on the outskirts rather than the more expensive campsite at Florence. However, when we arrived at our campsite at San Gimignano, it became obvious that actually we could travel to Florence as a day trip using public transport from there. Although the journey would take nearly 2 hrs each way, we’d save time on van packing up, driving and re setting up. Plus being Easter weekend, we weren’t confident we’d even get a space at Florence. So, timetables were poured over, and a plan was made. Florence via public bus from San Gimignano.
On arrival into the bus station, we made our way to the cathedral and we were instantly blown away. The Duomo is absolutely breathtaking, a true architectural masterpiece.
We followed the Rick Steves audio tour of Renaissance Florence which was wonderful and a great way to tackle the city.
The views of the cathedral and the city from the Rose garden beneath Piazzale Michelangelo were outstanding.
And yes, we found (and loved) the famous wine windows—tiny historical quirks that let you order wine through little hatches in the wall. Genius!
Florence is now officially one of our top cities—majestic, romantic, and full of surprises at every turn.
Golden Hills & Slow Moments: We fell for Tuscany
Tuscany had a way of sweeping us off our feet—with its golden hour hills, small and charming medieval towns, and the way life seems to slow down just enough to savour every moment. From spontaneous proposals to cinematic landscapes and the comfort of pasta shared in the van, this leg of our journey reminded us why we love life on the road. As we roll on to our next destination, we’re carrying with us full hearts, full bellies, and a growing love for this enchanting corner of Italy.
Crossing Italy’s Boot: Matera, Alberobello & Lecce in One Day
After a restful day yesterday, we were up early and ready for a packed itinerary — today we crossed Italy from coast to coast, journeying through some of the country’s most breathtaking and historic destinations. From ancient cave cities to fairytale towns and Baroque beauty, this was a travel day to remember.
Stop 1: Matera — Ancient Wonder & Film Star
Our first stop was Matera, a city like no other. Known as one of the oldest continuously inhabited places on Earth, Matera is famous for its Sassi, ancient cave dwellings carved directly into the limestone rock. Walking through the winding stone paths and peeking into the caves feels like stepping into another time entirely. We enjoyed a visit to the cave dwelling museum and wander the streets soaking up the atmosphere.
It’s no wonder Matera has become a favourite filming location. Fans of cinema might recognise it from The Passion of the Christ and the opening scenes of James Bond: No Time to Die — yes, that iconic Aston Martin chase was shot right here.
A UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1993, Matera is haunting, beautiful, and absolutely worth a visit. We parked Gandalf at the motorhome parking area 20 mins walk out of town.
Stop 2: Alberobello — Fairytale Charm in the Heart of Puglia
From Matera, Basilicata, we crossed into Puglia, and the scenery quickly transformed. Rolling fields, centuries-old olive trees, dry stone walls, and occasional glimpses of traditional trulli homes lined the road — a sign we were nearing Alberobello.
If Matera felt like stepping back in time, Alberobello felt like walking into a storybook. The town is famous for its trulli — whitewashed stone houses topped with conical roofs. These whimsical structures are unique to the region and have earned Alberobello a well-deserved place on the UNESCO World Heritage list.
We explored the charming lanes, took way too many photos, and rounded off the visit with a cold craft beer brewed right in town. A perfect little pause before the final leg of the day. We parked Gandalf in the official motorhome parking area 5 mins from the Trulli houses. It cost €10 for up to 6hours (annoying as we were only there 1 hour), but was it also a very nice looking Sosta. With an extra day to play with, we’d have stayed there for sure.
Stop 3: Lecce — Sunset Rides & Southern Beauty
Our last destination of the day was Lecce, where we’re spending the night just outside the city on a peaceful farm stop — surrounded by olive trees, fig jam, and total tranquility.
On the drive in, signs for Greece had me momentarily tempted to skip Lecce and hop on a ferry to Corfu — but that adventure will have to wait! 😜
Instead, we unloaded the bikes and cycled the 6km into the city just as the sun was dipping behind the horizon — and wow, what a way to arrive. Lecce is often called the “Florence of the South,” and the nickname is well earned. The Baroque architecture here is intricate and stunning, and we found ourselves constantly stopping to admire it.
We also stumbled upon a fun full-circle moment — the endpoint of the Via Appia, the ancient Roman road we started cycling on last year… all the way back in Rome. Pretty surreal to reach the other end on this trip!
Taken last August in Rome on the start of the Appia Way
After exploring, we wrapped up the day with a couple of glasses of locally produced wine (delicious, by the way), then cycled back to our farm base just before nightfall.
Three stops, two UNESCO sites, one incredible day.
Can’t wait to see what tomorrow brings.
Northbound — slowly
Today marked the beginning of our reluctant journey north. But we weren’t quite ready to say goodbye to Puglia or the coast, so we only crept a couple of hours up the road to a seaside campsite between Trani and Bisceglie for one last hit of Adriatic sea air.
After a food restock, we rolled into our campsite (early, for once!) and enjoyed a long, lazy lunch of mozzarella, tomatoes, and prosciutto — our go-to combo lately. Then we hopped on the bikes again to ride the gorgeous coastal path that links Trani and Bisceglie, hugging the sea nearly the whole way.
Both towns charmed us — picture-perfect harbours, characterful narrow streets, fishermen selling their catch straight from their boats, impressive cathedrals, and that slow southern pace we’ve come to love.
Exploring Trani
We finished with a glass of local Puglian wine overlooking Trani’s harbour, soaking up the last rays of sun and a final taste of the south.
Bisceglie
Tomorrow, the real miles north begin. But tonight? Pure contentment and this sunset from the campsite!
After days of exploring at quite the pace, we decided to hit pause—and Camping Lido di Salerno turned out to be the perfect spot for it. Tucked right beside the sea with peaceful views stretching across to the Amalfi Coast, this little site offered just what we needed: simplicity, serenity, and a salty breeze.
Our journey here from Pompei was wonderful, passing over the mountains and along the beautiful Amalfi coast. The coastal drive especially was spectacular and, although we’d have loved to have stayed ON the Amalfi coast, campsites are non existent; so instead we managed to find a lovely sea view campsite to aim for just south of Salerno.
Our drive from Pompei to Salerno via the Amalfi Coast
On our first evening, we fired up a fish BBQ and dined to the sound of waves—an absolute treat.
The following day, we fully surrendered to relaxation: a lazy morning, lots of food and drink, and plenty of sea-gazing. We split our time between sitting under the awning and staying cozy inside, all while watching the changing skies over the water.
Going back to the campfire and our thoughts about it- the site itself is very basic, but honestly, it has a certain charm we really enjoyed. The facilities are hot, clean, and more than enough for a short stay.
If you’re looking for somewhere peaceful to recharge for a night or two, with the sea just steps away—this place fits the bill perfectly.
From here you can cycle 10km into Salerno and hop on a boat to Amalfi, and we possibly would have done that, but the weather had other ideas. With rain clouds rolling in, we embraced the opportunity to slow down and soak in the view instead.
We’ve arrived at a gorgeous little campsite just outside the town—tucked among orange trees with breathtaking views of Mount Vesuvius. Tickets are booked for tomorrow’s big adventure…
Excitement level: THROUGH. THE. ROOF.
Thursday – Exploring Pompeii
What. A. Day.
After 8 solid hours on foot and over 10 miles exploring the ancient ruins of Pompeii, I’m absolutely blown away. “Superb” doesn’t even come close. It’s still sinking in that I actually drove us all the way here from Norfolk in Gandalf… and now I’ve finally set foot in the ancient city I’ve dreamed about for years.
We wandered what felt like every single road and alleyway, soaking it all in—the city’s layout still so clear nearly two thousand years on.
The brothel had us howling (those murals/menus! And the beds!), while the theatre and amphitheatre were stunning.
We stepped into old taverns, imagined the hum of ancient life, and then stood silently before the plaster casts of those who didn’t make it out—deeply moving and unforgettable.
From the ruts worn into stone by ancient chariots to vivid wall paintings and graffiti, every inch of Pompeii tells a story. Just incredible. A day I’ll remember forever.
Refreshment stop en route back to campsite!
Friday – A Day Trip to Naples
We hopped on a train from our peaceful Pompei base to immerse ourselves in the vibrant chaos of Naples—the birthplace of pizza!
Armed with an audio guide, we roamed the historic, UNESCO-listed city, making stops for incredible pasta, warm sfogliatella from a tucked-away bakery, the oldest gelato in town, and finally, a legendary pizza at Naples’ oldest pizzeria. Every bite was better than the last (and yes, our bellies definitely felt it by the end).
We returned to Gandalf in a blissful, carb-filled haze.
Naples is bold, flavour-packed, and full of life. The food? Unforgettable. The graffiti? Not so much our taste.
Fun pizza fact:
The Margherita pizza as we know it today was born here in the late 1800s, created to honour Queen Margherita of Savoy. Its red (tomato), white (mozzarella), and green (basil) ingredients mirror the Italian flag.
Saturday – Capri Adventure
We extended our stay in Pompeii one last time to squeeze in a trip to Capri—and wow, what a day.
We took the train to Sorrento, then hopped on a high-speed ferry to the island.
While many head straight for the luxury shops and celebrity-studded restaurants, we made a beeline for the funicular and followed a popular hiking trail to the ruins of Emperor Tiberius’s old holiday home—Villa Jovis. Perched high above the sea, the views were outstanding, and the history was just as captivating. The trail, although mainly uphill for the 2km, was a on a good surface throughout and was also very well signposted. It also gave a great opportunity to get away from the hustle and bustle and take a closer look at some of the exquisite villas on the back streets.
We enjoyed a delicious homemade sandwich with mozzarella, tomato and prosciutto from a deli on the route back down to the town, and of course a limoncello spritz and limoncello gelato whilst on the island.
Back in Sorrento, we wandered the charming lemon-scented streets and enjoyed one final, glorious Italian pasta meal before heading back to camp, hearts full.
Here’s how we did it:
🚆 Train from Villa Regina to Sorrento – €3 | ~45 mins 🚶♀️ 10-minute walk to Sorrento harbour
⛴️ Ferry to Capri – €26 pp each way | Fast, scenic & 100% worth it
🚊 Funicular up to Capri town – 3 mins (or walk, bus, or taxi as alternatives)
Sunday – Moving On
Before saying goodbye to Pompeii, we visited Herculaneum. We took the van as we were moving on afterwards however this easily could be reached by train from the campsite.
Though smaller than Pompeii, its ruins are incredibly well-preserved—with taller, more intact buildings. Highlights included the ancient bakery oven and a beautiful shell mosaic, offering a totally different perspective to what we’d seen in Pompeii.
Spacious pitches set among fragrant orange trees, with a stunning view of Vesuvius.
Facilities: hot showers, washing up, laundry area.
Highly recommend—an excellent site!
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Two Days in Cinque Terre: Bikes, Boats, Trains & Trails
We just spent two full days exploring the beautiful Cinque Terre region — and honestly, it was the perfect mix of relaxed and adventurous. From cycling along the coast to ferry rides between colorful cliffside villages, here’s how we made the most of it.
Day One: Coastal Rides & Sea Views
We started off with a slow, scenic bike ride along a disused railway track from Levanto. The path runs Roth right along the coast, passing through old railway tunnels with amazing views popping out every so often. It’s only about 5 miles round-trip, so super manageable — more about soaking in the scenery than getting a workout.
After a drink by the sea back in Levanto, we hopped on the train just one stop to Monterosso. From there, after another quick drink, we we picked up the Cinque Terre ferry service. Pro tip: after 2pm, tickets are €28 per person for a return trip, and Jazz the dog got to ride for free. The boat cruise gave us a stunning view of all five villages from the water, and we got off at Riomaggiore to explore for an hour before sailing all the way back to Levanto.
Seeing the villages from the sea really gives you a unique perspective — it was such a great introduction to the area. We enjoyed a relax in Gandalf on site during the evening and a delicious chilli con carne.
Day Two: Trains, Trails & Pasta
We took things slower the next morning, starting with a coffee and a bit of a lie-in before heading out.
This time we grabbed the Cinque Terre Card, which gives you unlimited train travel between the villages and access to most of the hiking trails (except the famous Lovers’ Lane, which was is an additional €10pp- We declined).
We spent some time exploring Monterosso – with its atmospheric back streets and wide beach area it really is lovely.
We made our way on to Corniglia- higher in the cliff but with some great vistas. We enjoyed lunch in Corniglia’s main square — a simple but delicious pesto pasta (basil grows everywhere here), paired with a crisp local white wine that honestly might be one of the best we’ve ever had.
We broke up the train rides with a walk from Corniglia to Vernazza — just under two miles, with a few steep parts but nothing too intense if you take your time. The views were worth every step. Halfway through, we stopped at a little farm shop known for its lemons — everything they sell is lemon-based, from marmalade to limoncello. That limoncello definitely gave us the boost to finish the hike.
Vernazza was absolutely stunning — probably our favorite, along with Riomaggiore.
We spent some time wandering the final two villages just to soak in the atmosphere before heading back to Levanto on the train.
By the end of the day, we were completely wiped — but in the best way. Cinque Terre lived up to every bit of the hype, and seeing it from so many angles — on foot, by boat, bike, and train — made it even more special.
A lovely small campsite with a relaxed, welcoming vibe in a great location — just a 10-minute walk to the train station. The staff were super friendly, and the facilities were spotless and modern. It was quiet at night and felt very secure thanks to 24-hour security.
Cost was €50 per night (a bit steep), plus €1 per person per night tourist tax. For comparison, the nearby aire/sosta is €36 per 24 hours.
The Easter holidays arrived in a blur this year. After what felt like one of the busiest work weeks I can remember, we were more than ready for a break—and we didn’t waste a second. By Friday lunchtime, bags were packed, snacks were stashed, and we were waving goodbye to the UK on the 13:54 Le Shuttle crossing, heading off on an ambitious road trip in Gandalf, our trusty VW campervan.
Day 1: Champagne Dreams in Troyes
Our first destination was Troyes, a charming medieval town in the Champagne region of France. After a smooth Eurotunnel crossing and a solid afternoon on the road, we arrived by Friday evening. We’d heard that Troyes is full of charm—cobbled streets, half-timbered buildings, and the kind of place perfect for a relaxed wander and a quiet drink. But after a hectic week at work and a long day on the road, we arrived just after 7:30pm and quickly decided to be sensible. Rather than push ourselves, we stayed put at Gandalf, made some food, and chilled out. Exploring Troyes is firmly on the list for next time. The overnight spot we picked was ideal for our route south, but with a 30-minute walk each way into town, it just wasn’t realistic given how shattered we were.
By Saturday lunchtime, we’d reached the stunning Lake Annecy, often dubbed the cleanest lake in Europe. The drive itself was scenic, winding through the French countryside and gradually revealing alpine peaks in the distance.
Once parked up, we hopped on our bikes and enjoyed a relaxed ride along the lakeside cycle paths.
The views across the water to the surrounding mountains were unforgettable, and the town of Annecy—affectionately known as the “Venice of the Alps”—was full of charm, cafés, and postcard-worthy corners.
€26 for 2 people, 1 dog, and electricity with ACSI card
Great facilities, right on the cycle path, private access to lake (no dogs allowed at lakeshore though). Lidl and a Bus stop within a short walk.
Day 3: Through the Alps into Italy
Sunday began with a drive through the dramatic Chamonix Valley. Even after many road trips, this route took our breath away. Snow-dusted peaks, deep forests, and the promise of crossing into Italy through the Mont Blanc Tunnel kept the energy in Gandalf high.
Emerging on the Italian side felt like an instant shift—warmer air, Mediterranean colours, and winding roads heading down towards the Ligurian coast.
By Sunday afternoon, we rolled into Levanto, on the edge of the Cinque Terre. With Aperol spritz, cold beer, and a glass of bold Italian red in hand, we toasted the fact that in just three days, we’d made it from home to one of the most picturesque coastlines in Europe.
Settling In: Levanto and the Cinque Terre
We’re now parked up in Levanto for three nights, giving both Gandalf (our VW) and his driver a much-needed break. We think Levanto will be a perfect base—slightly quieter than the five famous Cinque Terre villages but connected by the local train line and even a converted railway line which is now a cycle trail, that hugs the cliffs and tunnels through the mountains. Over the next couple of days, we’ll be exploring these UNESCO World Heritage villages—each with its own unique vibe, colourful buildings, and dramatic coastal views.
Tips for Anyone Planning a Similar Trip:
Timing is everything: Leaving early Friday meant we beat a lot of the Easter rush and made solid progress on day one.
Stopovers matter: Choosing towns like Troyes and Annecy gave us something more than just a place to sleep—We like to have a little explore even on driving days (even though we failed on that this time at Troyes, having to listen to our bodies for a change instead!)
Mont Blanc Tunnel: It’s a smooth but pricey crossing (it cost us €54.80 one-way for a campervan), but worth it for the time saved and the views. Had we have not travelled through Mont Blanc tunnel from Annecy, we have only saved €13 (according to Waze, our navigation app)
Péages/ Tolls: When it comes to péages (toll roads), every traveller has their own take. Some swear by the slower, scenic routes; others (like us) often find ourselves on the toll roads, especially when time is limited.
Over the past three days, we’ve spent around £200 on tolls getting from the UK to Northern Italy—including the Mont Blanc tunnel, which alone is a chunk of that cost. It’s definitely not the cheapest way to travel, and if we had more time, we’d probably take it slower and avoid the tolls much more. After all, France is packed with incredible towns, villages, and countryside that you’re far more likely to stumble upon when you’re off the main autoroutes.
But the reality is, we rarely have more than two and a half weeks for a trip like this. So for us, toll roads are about efficiency—they get us to the “main event” of our journey as quickly as possible. Once we’re there, we can slow down and explore properly.
That said, there are definite downsides to the alternative. Non-toll roads can mean an endless series of roundabouts, slower traffic, and occasionally, bumpier surfaces. Our dog, for one, is not a fan. He’s developed a habit of barking at roundabouts—something that doesn’t happen on the toll roads where he happily snoozes through the smooth, straight stretches. So in our case, paying for tolls isn’t just about time—it’s also about keeping the peace in the van (and saving our ears!).
In short: if you’ve got time to meander, the non-toll routes are full of hidden gems. But if you’re on a schedule and want to maximise your time at the destination, toll roads can be worth every penny—and every bit of peace and quiet 😂 they bring.
Levanto as a base: Highly recommend. Less crowded than the Cinque Terre villages, and still full of great food, wine, and beachy vibes.
More updates to come as we explore this incredible coast—one village, one plate of pasta, a pizza and a couple of glasses of wine at a time.
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