After completing the West Highland Way on Sunday, we took a break at Glen Nevis Campsite on the edge of Fort William. It was a good place to rest and reset before continuing our trip.
Monday: Storms & Rest
On Monday, Storm Floris arrived. Thankfully, we had already finished our walk, so we stayed put for a proper rest day.
We had a slow morning, made a cooked brunch, and visited the on-site campsite shop, which had a good selection of local supplies. Keith watched a couple of films, I got our WHW content sorted, and Jazz caught up on sleep. We kept warm with hot chocolate and hot water bottles, and had cowboy stew for dinner cooked in the slow cooker— simple and comforting.
Tuesday: Chores & a Trip into Town
Tuesday was still damp, but we got a few things done. We tackled two weeks of laundry and I treated myself to a bit of a pamper session.
In the afternoon, we rode our electric bikes into Fort William, around 3 miles from the campsite.
The walk into town isn’t very scenic, so the bikes were a big help. Once there, we picked up some souvenirs from the walk and had lunch and a couple of beers at the Ben Nevis pub, which had a log fire on — cosy even if it felt early for autumn.
Unfortunately, the poor weather meant we had to skip our plan to walk Ben Nevis, but we were glad to get out for a bit regardless.
Campsite Notes
Ben Nevis Campsite is a good base for Fort William and for those planning to climb Ben Nevis — the trailhead is close by. There are also several other walking options in the area.
The site itself is large and generally well-equipped. The facilities were decent, though a bit dated. The showers were hot, but not always clean — likely down to other campers rather than the staff, who seemed to check them regularly. We appreciated that our pitch was close to the blocks, especially during the stormy weather.
It’s worth noting that the campsite does come with a higher price tag, but that’s typical for the Fort William area.
Moving On
We’re now ready to move on to the next part of our trip. We didn’t get to climb Ben Nevis this time, but it’s still on the list — and we’d definitely consider returning to this site again in future.
The West Highland Way is one of Scotland’s most iconic long-distance walking routes, stretching 96 miles from Milngavie to Fort William. We’ve been gagging to give it a go since we completed Hadrians Wall Path last year.
While many choose to backpack or book accommodation along the route, we decided to take a different approach — combining the freedom of walking with the comforts of our VW campervan.
With no backup crew, just the two of us and our dog, Jazz, we walked the WHW over 8 days, using a mix of strategic campsite bookings, cab transfers, and our trusty campervan as a moving basecamp.
Why This Approach?
Yes, it meant a bit more planning and a few cab fares, but we got the best of both worlds: • Hot showers every night without setting up a shower tent • Warm and comfy bed and home-cooked meals after long hikes. • Dog-friendly and flexible travel. • Average cost- accommodation and transfers: ~£83/night for two people + dog.
We could have wild camped to save money, but we value a real shower, comfy bed and a proper rest after hiking all day. For us, that trade-off was worth every penny.
📅 Our West Highland Way Itinerary (Campervan-Style)
Style: South to North
Distance: 96 miles
Dates: Started walking Sunday 28th July and finished on Sunday 3rd August 2025
Setup: Campervan + daypacks + pre-booked taxis
With dog: Yes – all campsites and taxis dog-friendly
Day 0 – Arrive & Base at Drymen
We arrived in Drymen and set up the van at Drymen Camping for two nights. It’s a great base to start from, walking distance to pubs and shops. This gave us a buffer day before starting the trail.
We took a pre-booked taxi from Drymen to the official WHW start in Milngavie, then walked back to the van at Drymen Camping. Simple start, with easy and flat paths- good to get the legs going on day 1. We walked past Drymen campsite into the village and finished at the pub, The Clahcan. We had to walk back to campsite but saved 1.4 miles off day 2’s walk.
We moved the van to Cashel campsite on Loch Lomond in the morning (about a 20-min drive), then took a taxi back to Drymen (Clahcan pub) to walk this section.
Can you spot us?!
Cashel Campsite is scenic and a really lovely spot to stay for a couple of nights. We were blessed with amazing weather whilst here and were able to enjoy some million dollar cooking and eating views from our pitch – well worth paying for the premium loch side pitch.
We walked from the campsite this morning on a beautiful but tougher section along the loch edge to Inversnaid Hotel. We’d pre-booked a taxi to pick us up from there and take us back to Cashel. This is a long and expensive fare because it’s 1hr 15 mins back via road from Inversnaid hotel to Cashel site due to only one mountain pass route down.
We moved the van to Beinglass Farm campsite early (a long journey -1 hr 15 mins). We were able to set up the van, then had a pre booked cab from Beinglass to Tarbet Pier, where we took a water bus boat across to Inversnaid, and walked back to the van. Slightly more complicated logistics, but it worked smoothly and was governed by the 11:45 water bus, so a later start walking but it felt like a holiday in a holiday! And the ferry journey was lovely!
The walk, despite only being 6 miles was very tough going. The path was very uneven, with clambering over huge boulders, tree roots and more. It was slow going and we were glad to be able to split this into two unlike most people who tack this onto our previous day (and then struggle hugely and in some cases quit the walk!) Despite a hard day/ the views were magnificent.
We very much enjoyed some post walk drinks in the renowned Drovers Inn. Established in 1705, it was originally a resting spot for highland drovers (cattle herders). Today, it’s known for its quirky, atmospheric décor, taxidermy-filled rooms, traditional Scottish hospitality, hearty food, and live music. The inn combines rustic charm with ghostly legends, making it a popular stop for tourists exploring the West Highland Way.
We moved the van to Tyndrum Holiday Park in the morning, then got a taxi pick up and dropped back at Beinglass to start the walk. Easy trail day, with lovely views and following the old Military Road.
A Long day! We walked the full stretch leaving the campsite Tyndrum Holiday Park at 7am and getting to Kingshouse at 4:30pm with refreshment stops at The Bridge of Orchy hotel, and Inveroran Hotel. Although big on miles, a thoroughly enjoyable and relatively easy walk.
Unfortunately, the A82 was closed due to an incident when it was time to transfer back, so our planned taxi couldn’t reach us. Luckily, we managed to get a lift from a driver who had just dropped someone at Kingshouse. We shared the £50 fare with two other walkers and got back to our van in Tyndrum. A reminder that whilst things had been smooth so far, logistical problems can hinder your day- which wouldn’t affect you if you’re doing a point to point on route approach!
We had a taxi to take us from Tyndrum to Kingshouse in the morning, then walked from there to Kinlochleven. Our taxi came back for us that evening and returned us to the van again in Tyndrum. This was our favourite day on the the trail, the views through Glencoe were absolutely outstanding. (We had amazing weather!)
Tyndrum Holiday Park
Day 8 – Kinlochleven to Fort William (~15.7 miles)
Final day! An early start, We moved the van early to Glen Nevis campsite (very close to the finish line), then took a taxi back to Kinlochleven at 08:15 and walked the final leg to Fort William. A tough day on the trail but we got there, and there was a great atmosphere at the end in the Black Isle Bar with walking friends we’d encountered along the way!
We pre-booked three journeys with Drymen Taxi Service about two months in advance. We paid the full £100 at the end of Day 3. All journeys were prompt and smooth and not at all a reflection of their reviews online. We thoroughly recommend Ian and his team.
Drymen → Milngavie
Cashel → Drymen
Inversnaid → Cashel
Days 4, 5 & 7: Crianlarich Cars – £170
We used Crianlarich Cars for five legs over three days. Ian (owner) and Jimmy (his deputy) were absolutely brilliant — always early, helpful, and flexible when plans had to change due to road closures.
Beinglass → Tarbet Pier ( for the waterbus to Inversnaid)
Tyndrum → Beinglass
Tyndrum → Kingshouse
Kinlochleven → Tyndrum
(Flexible extra support when A82 was shut)
Day 6: Kingshouse → Tyndrum – £50 (shared)
The A82 closure made it tough to coordinate transport. We were supposed to have Crainlarich cars to collect us but a 9 hour road closure between Crainlarich and Tyndrum meant he couldn’t get to us although he was insistent he’d come as soon as the road reopened no matter what time so we were never stranded. Luckily though, we got an on-the-spot taxi from someone who’d just dropped off walkers at Kingshouse. Shared with 2 others, our portion came to £25.
Day 8: Glen Nevis → Kinlochleven – £60
We used Nevis Cars to get us from Glen Nevis Campsite (near the finish) back to Kinlochleven so we could walk into Fort William. Quick, reliable service.
Total Taxi Costs: £380
Jimmy the Cab driver made a point of collecting us from the van each time! Which was welcome
Bus Alternatives – Why We Didn’t Take Them
Let’s talk about buses. Yes, they were an option. A significantly cheaper one, in fact—we reckon we could’ve saved around £175 on transfers by using public transport instead of taxis. Tempting, right?
There’s a solid bus service that runs from Beinglass/Inverarnan all the way up to Glencoe Mountain Resort (which is just about a mile before Kingshouse). Two companies operate this stretch: Citylink and Ember. The problem? Citylink doesn’t allow dogs. Ember does—but their buses are far less frequent.
We looked into it. Properly. But the Ember timetable just didn’t work for us. It would’ve meant either ridiculously early starts or hanging around for hours waiting on connections—particularly tricky when coordinating with things like the waterbus.
At one point, we even considered piecing together a two-bus journey from Glen Nevis to Kinlochleven. But again, dogs were taken at the driver’s discretion. We just couldn’t risk being turned away, especially when that would’ve meant starting a 15-mile day at nearly midday.
In the end, the taxis—while costly—gave us what we needed: flexibility. They worked around our timings, whether we were ahead of schedule or dawdling. So yes, it stung the budget a bit, but we don’t regret it. The ease and adaptability made a big difference, and for us, that was worth the spend.
📝 Final Thoughts
This van + taxi setup worked brilliantly for us. It let us hike light, sleep well, eat brilliantly and keep the dog comfy too. The trade-off was having to manage transport logistics, but it was 100% worth it for the flexibility and rest between days.
This setup would suit anyone who:
-Has a campervan (but not too big as Drymen only take small vans) and doesn’t want to move every day
-Is hiking with a dog or young companion
– Wants to avoid carrying heavy gear
-Prefers campsite comforts to wild camping
-Doesn’t mind organising things ahead of time
Would we do a multi day linear hike again in this fashion? Absolutely! We loved it and for us it couldn’t have been more perfect. It’s fiddly at times, you have to think outside the box sometimes but the satisfaction of completing it with Gandalf the Grey was just brilliant!
The finishing campsite – Glen Nevis
Things we found useful for planning and during our trip!
Please note some of these Amazon items are linked to my affiliate account and if you order through the link I will receive a few pence income per item ordered
School’s out and we’ve finally hit the road. This past term has been non-stop — busy as ever, and made even more so by Keefy’s scheduled operation and the recovery time that followed. But with the hospital’s green light, we were more than ready for a change of scene and wasted no time in getting on the road.
Our goal this summer is simple: spend as much of it as possible in Gandalf the VW camper. The first two weeks are lightly planned — including, hopefully, a bucket list tick — but after that we’ve got a glorious 3–4 weeks of total freedom, with no route other than following the sun.
We’re heading north first, and our first stop is.. the Peak District.
It’s a favourite of ours — peaceful, great walking, and always helps us slow down and reset.
This time, we based ourselves at Tideslow Farm on, a Certified Location about 1.5 miles outside Tideswell and 5 miles from Castleton. It’s basic, with just a water tap and a chemical loo disposal point, but at £12 per night and with total peace and quiet, it was exactly what we were after.
Day 1 – Arrival & a Local Walk
After arriving and settling in, we headed out on a short evening walk — just a mile each way — to the local pub, The Anchor Inn at Tideswell. We were welcomed warmly, and the sausage and mash was delicious. A lovely start to the trip and a chance to breathe out after a hectic few weeks.
Day 2 – Moorland Walk to Castleton
Our first full day, and we had a lay in. After a proper chill (didn’t get up until 11am!), we had a lazy brunch in Gandalf and eventually pulled on our walking boots. We set off across the moor, picking up the Limestone Way — a long-distance path that runs from Castleton to Rocester — and followed it towards Castleton.
The highlight was the descent through Cave Dale. The trail underfoot was a bit tricky in parts, but the views more than made up for it — dramatic limestone cliffs, rolling green slopes, and that satisfying sense of stepping into a hidden valley. It really is one of the Peak District’s gems. Walk route Here
Once in Castleton, we stopped for a well-earned pint, then hopped on the Peak District tourist explorer bus followed by a local service to get us back to our starting point. Naturally, we ended up back at the pub for another drink before walking back to camp.
Dinner was a relaxed BBQ back at the van — cooler weather than the last month or so (thank goodness) but still bright, and very welcome after seeing the washout forecasts back home!
We spent the evening reading and just enjoying the utter peace and quiet. We adore being off grid and running off battery and solar and we are already feeling like we’re chilling right out.
Day 3- time to leave The Peak District but not before another quick adventure up Mam Tor.
Can you spot Gandalf? Tideslow Farm CL
We had a slow morning as we packed up camp, then set off on a short journey toward Mam Tor, just outside the village of Castleton. The drive took us through Winnats Pass — a dramatic, narrow route that winds its way between towering limestone cliffs. With its steep sides and twisting turns, it felt more like a mountain pass than a country road, and I was completely in my element behind the wheel.
We parked at the National Trust car park near the base of Mam Tor and set off on a scenic 3-mile circular walk. The route took us up to the summit and along a stretch of the Great Ridge. We were incredibly lucky with the weather — the views were stunning, even if we had to share them with a few too many others!
Mam Tor, often referred to as the “Shivering Mountain,” rises to 517 metres and commands breathtaking views over the Hope Valley and Edale. Its name comes from the frequent landslides caused by unstable shale on its slopes, which have created a distinctive landscape of mini-hills beneath it. Rich in both geological interest and history, Mam Tor is one of the Peak District’s most beloved and recognisable landmarks — a perfect reward for such a manageable climb.
After lunch back at Gandalf, it was time to turn the wheels north. Next stop is to see some friends in Preston for the evening- but we managed a quick look around Rufford Old Hall National Trust on route! This 16th-century timber-framed manor, features a great hall with an intricately carved hammerbeam roof, and beautiful gardens perfect for a peaceful stroll. It is said that Shakespeare performed here in his youth.
It’s been the perfect start to our summer roadtrip and already we can feel ourselves relaxing. We’re looking forward to a catch up with our friends and then it’s time to head further north for a very very exciting 10 days of adventure!
We spent the weekend back at one of our favourite coastal spots: Sandy Gulls Caravan Park in Mundesley, Norfolk. It’s a quiet, well-kept site right on the cliff, with uninterrupted sea views and direct beach access — perfect for a relaxing break and some long walks. We planned the trip to coincide with Keefy’s birthday weekend, and as usual, the Norfolk coast didn’t disappoint.
We arrived early on Friday afternoon to clear skies and blazing sunshine. After setting up the van, and eating lunch, we headed straight down to the beach, taking advantage of the sea breeze to keep cool. The beach here stretches for miles and is usually quiet, especially just outside the summer rush. We walked around three miles out and back, a gentle start to the weekend, with a drink stop at The Ship Inn along the way — a classic coastal pub with arguably the best beer garden view in Norfolk. It’s a great place to stop for a pint and just enjoy the open skies and sound of the waves.
Back at the van, we kept dinner easy but delicious. We had brought a homemade mac and cheese, which I made at home, and we reheated in our tabletop oven and topped with fresh Cromer crab we picked up on the way to the site. To start, we had a caprese salad, and we grilled a couple of halloumi skewers as a side. Simple, low effort, and really tasty.
The rest of the evening was spent reading outside the van, watching the light fade over the sea before falling into a heavy sleep— until about 1am, when we were woken up by a spectacular thunderstorm. The lightning was near constant and lit up the sky like daylight. There was no wind, but the thunder was loud and close. Safe to say we didn’t get much sleep for that hour, and no, I didn’t take any photos — I was hiding under the duvet.
Saturday started slowly with coffee and a quiet morning at the pitch.
Our plan was to walk the coastal path all the way to Cromer, but about two miles in, we got wonderfully sidetracked. Just before Trimingham, tucked away in someone’s back garden, we stumbled across the Cliffhanger Tiki Bar. It had only opened the day before and was a brilliant surprise — beachy decor, friendly owners, and cold drinks with uninterrupted views of the sea. We stayed for a couple of beers and a chat before attempting to continue our walk.
Unfortunately, the coastal path had been washed away further along the route, and with the heat building and Jazz the dog starting to feel it, we decided not to push on by road. Instead, we caught the Coasthopper bus into Cromer, which is a great option if you don’t want to walk Cromer and beyond. The service is regular and dog-friendly, and it meant we could still enjoy the rest of the day without overdoing it.
Cromer was busy but not overwhelming, and we found some shade at one of the beach bars to cool off with drinks and a portion of fish and chips.
It was still warm well into the evening, so we eventually made our way back to the van for a peaceful night sitting out with a sea breeze and the sound of waves in the background.
On Sunday morning, we had to leave the site but didn’t feel ready to head home. We parked up in Cromer and set off along the coast path to Sheringham. This route is around four and a half miles each way and follows the cliff for most of the journey, with open views the whole way. The weather was perfect — sunny but breezy — and the path was in good condition.
Sheringham was buzzing with Father’s Day visitors, and we stopped at The Two Lifeboats for a pint before retracing our steps back toward Cromer, finishing the last section along the beach. After clocking up nine miles, we wrapped up the weekend with our second helping of fish and chips before hitting the road home.
It was the kind of weekend that makes you want to stay just one more day — slow mornings, lovely walks, a few unexpected finds, and a campsite that really lets you soak up the best of the coast. Even with the overnight storm and washed-out path, we couldn’t have asked for much more. If you’re heading to Norfolk and want a quiet, sea-view pitch with walking routes in every direction, Sandy Gulls is well worth a visit.
The trouble with the May Bank Holiday is that it always sneaks up right after Easter. We’d barely unpacked from our Easter grand tour and suddenly it was time to hit the road again! After a bit of indecision, we landed on Walton on Thames—perfectly placed for a visit to Keith’s dad in South London and for ticking off more miles along the Thames Path.
We stayed at the Camping and Caravanning Club site in Walton, which is quite different from other club sites we’ve visited. No facilities block means it’s much quieter—a welcome change this time of year. There’s a large field with no electric hook-up (ideal for off-gridders like us), as well as standard hardstanding pitches with electric if needed.
We chose to go off-grid—the first time this year—and it felt so right. Somehow, being off electric always helps us switch off mentally too. Why is that? Still a mystery!
We pitched right next to the River Mole, and it was absolutely idyllic—peaceful, calm, and just what we needed.
Friday night:
BBQ time and relaxation mode: perfect after a busy week at work
Saturday:
We had a well-earned lie-in followed by a proper fry-up.
The bus stop is just a 10-minute walk away, so we hopped on a bus to Kingston upon Thames to continue our Thames Path adventure. The walk was beautiful, and we especially loved the drinks at The Mitre Hotel—right on the river next to Hampton Court Palace. It honestly felt like we were abroad!
We walked all the way to the outskirts of Walton on Thames before catching a bus back to the site.
Dinner was chicken gyros and a big ol’ chill-out session. Perfection.
Sunday:
Another laid-back morning with breakfast baps, then we picked up where we left off—bus to Walton outskirts, then walked to Chertsey.
The transformation of the river from urban to rural was stunning. A highlight for us was the foot ferry near Shepperton—a charming part of the national trail.
A couple of pub stops later, we arrived in Chertsey. Another cracking day of walking.
There’s a club site in Chertsey too (we’ve stayed there before), but we’ll definitely be returning to Walton on Thames. It was utterly lovely—tranquil, scenic, and with great public transport links. You could even get into Central London in about an hour!
Dinner was salmon and asparagus pasta.
We were chuffed to bits with how all our off grid gadgets worked. The joolca hot tap being the start of them all- instant hot water for showers and washing up is absolutely a game changer! read about it here
Next up:
The stretch from Chertsey to Marlow is calling! 🚶♀️🚶♂️
If anyone has off-grid campsite recommendations along the Thames Path—we’d love to hear them!
This Easter, we set off on a journey that took us from the UK all the way to the sun-soaked heel of Italy—and back again—with Gandalf the campervan as our faithful home on wheels. In just a few weeks, we experienced a rich blend of dramatic coastlines, ancient cities, quiet countryside, and unforgettable moments that made this one of our most memorable road trips to date.
We kicked things off with a brisk, 48 hour drive through France and into northern Italy, pausing to admire the medieval charm of Troyes and the glassy beauty of Lake Annecy. With blue skies and mountain views, it was the perfect place to stretch our legs and cycle along the lakeside before crossing into Italy through the spectacular Alpine passes.
Once in Italy, our first major stop was the Cinque Terre—a cluster of five vibrant cliffside villages on the Ligurian coast. Parked up high in Levanto, we set out on foot and by train and bike to explore the picture-perfect towns, each with its own character. From colourful harbours to dramatic coastal paths, this stretch of the Italian Riviera stole our hearts and set the tone for the adventures to come.
Further south, we immersed ourselves in history with a stay near Pompeii, where we explored the haunting ruins of the ancient Roman city frozen in time. A day trip to Naples added a burst of urban energy—and a few slices of truly unbeatable pizza.
Our route then led us to the sun-drenched region of Puglia, where whitewashed towns, olive groves, and coastal beauty unfolded before us. We wandered through Alberobello’s fairytale trulli houses, explored the historic charm of Lecce, and loved every second. Puglia felt like a peaceful pause in the journey—authentic, unspoiled, and deeply relaxing.
Eventually, we made our way north into the rolling hills of Tuscany, and the pace picked up again—along with the romance. From the cliffside elegance of Pienza, where we witnessed a spontaneous proposal, to the medieval towers of San Gimignano and the awe-inspiring architecture of Florence, Tuscany delivered in every way. The food, the views, the light—everything felt timeless.
Throughout the journey, we balanced bustling sightseeing days with quiet evenings cooking in the van, sipping local wine, and soaking in sunsets from campsites with views. From ancient ruins to seaside serenity, cityscapes to vineyard-covered hills, this Easter road trip was a perfect mix of adventure, culture, and relaxation.
Planning a big European road trip? We’ve got tips on covering long distances and navigating the continent coming soon—subscribe so you don’t miss a thing!
We covered some serious ground on our latest leg—about 600 km heading north through Italy!
The journey included another UNESCO stop, some wild weather, and even a surprise Lamborghini police car. Here’s a look at our latest adventures, from ancient ruins to picture-perfect Tuscan towns.
A Rainy Detour into Roman Grandeur: Hadrian’s Villa, Tivoli
From our last campsite in Puglia, we made the long journey north towards Tuscany, with a leg stretch stop just outside Rome, at the ruins of Villa Adriana (Hadrian’s Villa) in Tivoli—a UNESCO World Heritage Site that completely exceeded expectations. This sprawling Roman complex once belonged to Emperor Hadrian, and walking through it today feels like stepping into a piece of ancient opulence. The remaining walls tower above you, hinting at what must’ve been an extraordinarily grand and luxurious retreat. We spent just over 2 hours exploring the site which worked well as a leg stretch. Happily the horrendous rain we’d encountered on our journey so far paused during our visit too.
Just before we arrived at Tivoli, something truly surreal happened: we were overtaken by an Italian police car—but not just any police car. A Lamborghini. Flashing lights and all, it pulled up beside us in full dramatic fashion. Turns out, the Italian police actually use Lamborghinis for transporting organs and emergencies—isn’t that amazing! Certainly the poshest emergency vehicle we’ve ever seen!
Tuscany Welcomes Us—with a Proposal!
After Tivoli, we continued north, hoping for those iconic Tuscan views to greet us, and the rain which had restarted to stop once more —and we were not disappointed. The rain stopped, and the rolling hills and golden light welcomed us practically the second we turned off the motorway! The views were everything we’d imagined. Our destination was Pienza, another UNESCO-listed gem perched high on a cliff, overlooking the Val d’Orcia countryside.
The road up to Pienza
We rolled in late (for us!) and found a perfect overnight spot—just €6 for a car park right next to the old town.
As we settled in and walked into a bar with panoramic views, something magical happened.
First, the French man took this photo of us…..
A French traveler, who had just taken a photo for us, asked if we could film something. Moments later, he was down on one knee, proposing to his girlfriend—right in front of us.
What a place for a proposalThe view from our bar terrace A magical evening (this was taken seconds before the proposal)
It was completely spontaneous, incredibly romantic, and yes—she said yes! We toasted with champagne with the couple, who we enjoyed getting to know, and couldn’t believe our luck to witness such a beautiful moment! What a welcome to Tuscany. We wish Jérémy and Alexandra all the very best ❤️
We spent the rest of the evening wandering through Pienza, soaking in its charm. The quiet streets, warm light, and sweeping views over the Val d’Orcia made it feel like a scene from a postcard. It’s without a doubt one of Tuscany’s true gems.
Day Two: From Movie Scenes to Medieval Streets
After such a dreamy first day, Tuscany kept the magic coming. We had a short drive ahead—just 75 miles—but with a few important missions: a visit to the vet for Jazz (our dog) and a trip to see one of our favorite film locations.
Driving through the Val d’Orcia, we passed the landscape made famous by Gladiator—specifically the villa and fields of Maximus’ farm and farm house. The sweeping countryside really does feel cinematic, and we could see how it inspired Ridley Scott.
From Gladiator: Russell Crowe’s farm land And his farm house
We arrived at our campsite near San Gimignano, another UNESCO World Heritage Site. After a chilled afternoon at the van (aka Trattoria Gandolfino after some delicious pasta meals recently cooked inside), we strolled into town just before sunset.
The campsite was a great strategic position for visiting San Gimignano, as it was on the outskirts, so nice and quiet, but had a shuttle running to and from town every half an hour for €1.30 pp. There is also a pavement the whole walk into town and the roads were quiet enough for bikes too. We made use of the shuttle!
San Gimignano is famous for its medieval towers, and the 14th-century frescos in its cathedral have their own UNESCO status, and are some of the most complete we’ve seen.
We ended our evening with wild boar sausages and local wine—Tuscan living at its finest.
While we both slightly preferred Pienza for its romantic charm, San Gimignano held its own as a must-visit spot.
Final Stop: Fabulous Florence!
Visiting Florence was a certainty, but we hadn’t decided how we were going to do it. I think we both thought we make use of one of the sostas on the outskirts rather than the more expensive campsite at Florence. However, when we arrived at our campsite at San Gimignano, it became obvious that actually we could travel to Florence as a day trip using public transport from there. Although the journey would take nearly 2 hrs each way, we’d save time on van packing up, driving and re setting up. Plus being Easter weekend, we weren’t confident we’d even get a space at Florence. So, timetables were poured over, and a plan was made. Florence via public bus from San Gimignano.
On arrival into the bus station, we made our way to the cathedral and we were instantly blown away. The Duomo is absolutely breathtaking, a true architectural masterpiece.
We followed the Rick Steves audio tour of Renaissance Florence which was wonderful and a great way to tackle the city.
The views of the cathedral and the city from the Rose garden beneath Piazzale Michelangelo were outstanding.
And yes, we found (and loved) the famous wine windows—tiny historical quirks that let you order wine through little hatches in the wall. Genius!
Florence is now officially one of our top cities—majestic, romantic, and full of surprises at every turn.
Golden Hills & Slow Moments: We fell for Tuscany
Tuscany had a way of sweeping us off our feet—with its golden hour hills, small and charming medieval towns, and the way life seems to slow down just enough to savour every moment. From spontaneous proposals to cinematic landscapes and the comfort of pasta shared in the van, this leg of our journey reminded us why we love life on the road. As we roll on to our next destination, we’re carrying with us full hearts, full bellies, and a growing love for this enchanting corner of Italy.
Crossing Italy’s Boot: Matera, Alberobello & Lecce in One Day
After a restful day yesterday, we were up early and ready for a packed itinerary — today we crossed Italy from coast to coast, journeying through some of the country’s most breathtaking and historic destinations. From ancient cave cities to fairytale towns and Baroque beauty, this was a travel day to remember.
Stop 1: Matera — Ancient Wonder & Film Star
Our first stop was Matera, a city like no other. Known as one of the oldest continuously inhabited places on Earth, Matera is famous for its Sassi, ancient cave dwellings carved directly into the limestone rock. Walking through the winding stone paths and peeking into the caves feels like stepping into another time entirely. We enjoyed a visit to the cave dwelling museum and wander the streets soaking up the atmosphere.
It’s no wonder Matera has become a favourite filming location. Fans of cinema might recognise it from The Passion of the Christ and the opening scenes of James Bond: No Time to Die — yes, that iconic Aston Martin chase was shot right here.
A UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1993, Matera is haunting, beautiful, and absolutely worth a visit. We parked Gandalf at the motorhome parking area 20 mins walk out of town.
Stop 2: Alberobello — Fairytale Charm in the Heart of Puglia
From Matera, Basilicata, we crossed into Puglia, and the scenery quickly transformed. Rolling fields, centuries-old olive trees, dry stone walls, and occasional glimpses of traditional trulli homes lined the road — a sign we were nearing Alberobello.
If Matera felt like stepping back in time, Alberobello felt like walking into a storybook. The town is famous for its trulli — whitewashed stone houses topped with conical roofs. These whimsical structures are unique to the region and have earned Alberobello a well-deserved place on the UNESCO World Heritage list.
We explored the charming lanes, took way too many photos, and rounded off the visit with a cold craft beer brewed right in town. A perfect little pause before the final leg of the day. We parked Gandalf in the official motorhome parking area 5 mins from the Trulli houses. It cost €10 for up to 6hours (annoying as we were only there 1 hour), but was it also a very nice looking Sosta. With an extra day to play with, we’d have stayed there for sure.
Stop 3: Lecce — Sunset Rides & Southern Beauty
Our last destination of the day was Lecce, where we’re spending the night just outside the city on a peaceful farm stop — surrounded by olive trees, fig jam, and total tranquility.
On the drive in, signs for Greece had me momentarily tempted to skip Lecce and hop on a ferry to Corfu — but that adventure will have to wait! 😜
Instead, we unloaded the bikes and cycled the 6km into the city just as the sun was dipping behind the horizon — and wow, what a way to arrive. Lecce is often called the “Florence of the South,” and the nickname is well earned. The Baroque architecture here is intricate and stunning, and we found ourselves constantly stopping to admire it.
We also stumbled upon a fun full-circle moment — the endpoint of the Via Appia, the ancient Roman road we started cycling on last year… all the way back in Rome. Pretty surreal to reach the other end on this trip!
Taken last August in Rome on the start of the Appia Way
After exploring, we wrapped up the day with a couple of glasses of locally produced wine (delicious, by the way), then cycled back to our farm base just before nightfall.
Three stops, two UNESCO sites, one incredible day.
Can’t wait to see what tomorrow brings.
Northbound — slowly
Today marked the beginning of our reluctant journey north. But we weren’t quite ready to say goodbye to Puglia or the coast, so we only crept a couple of hours up the road to a seaside campsite between Trani and Bisceglie for one last hit of Adriatic sea air.
After a food restock, we rolled into our campsite (early, for once!) and enjoyed a long, lazy lunch of mozzarella, tomatoes, and prosciutto — our go-to combo lately. Then we hopped on the bikes again to ride the gorgeous coastal path that links Trani and Bisceglie, hugging the sea nearly the whole way.
Both towns charmed us — picture-perfect harbours, characterful narrow streets, fishermen selling their catch straight from their boats, impressive cathedrals, and that slow southern pace we’ve come to love.
Exploring Trani
We finished with a glass of local Puglian wine overlooking Trani’s harbour, soaking up the last rays of sun and a final taste of the south.
Bisceglie
Tomorrow, the real miles north begin. But tonight? Pure contentment and this sunset from the campsite!
After days of exploring at quite the pace, we decided to hit pause—and Camping Lido di Salerno turned out to be the perfect spot for it. Tucked right beside the sea with peaceful views stretching across to the Amalfi Coast, this little site offered just what we needed: simplicity, serenity, and a salty breeze.
Our journey here from Pompei was wonderful, passing over the mountains and along the beautiful Amalfi coast. The coastal drive especially was spectacular and, although we’d have loved to have stayed ON the Amalfi coast, campsites are non existent; so instead we managed to find a lovely sea view campsite to aim for just south of Salerno.
Our drive from Pompei to Salerno via the Amalfi Coast
On our first evening, we fired up a fish BBQ and dined to the sound of waves—an absolute treat.
The following day, we fully surrendered to relaxation: a lazy morning, lots of food and drink, and plenty of sea-gazing. We split our time between sitting under the awning and staying cozy inside, all while watching the changing skies over the water.
Going back to the campfire and our thoughts about it- the site itself is very basic, but honestly, it has a certain charm we really enjoyed. The facilities are hot, clean, and more than enough for a short stay.
If you’re looking for somewhere peaceful to recharge for a night or two, with the sea just steps away—this place fits the bill perfectly.
From here you can cycle 10km into Salerno and hop on a boat to Amalfi, and we possibly would have done that, but the weather had other ideas. With rain clouds rolling in, we embraced the opportunity to slow down and soak in the view instead.
We’ve arrived at a gorgeous little campsite just outside the town—tucked among orange trees with breathtaking views of Mount Vesuvius. Tickets are booked for tomorrow’s big adventure…
Excitement level: THROUGH. THE. ROOF.
Thursday – Exploring Pompeii
What. A. Day.
After 8 solid hours on foot and over 10 miles exploring the ancient ruins of Pompeii, I’m absolutely blown away. “Superb” doesn’t even come close. It’s still sinking in that I actually drove us all the way here from Norfolk in Gandalf… and now I’ve finally set foot in the ancient city I’ve dreamed about for years.
We wandered what felt like every single road and alleyway, soaking it all in—the city’s layout still so clear nearly two thousand years on.
The brothel had us howling (those murals/menus! And the beds!), while the theatre and amphitheatre were stunning.
We stepped into old taverns, imagined the hum of ancient life, and then stood silently before the plaster casts of those who didn’t make it out—deeply moving and unforgettable.
From the ruts worn into stone by ancient chariots to vivid wall paintings and graffiti, every inch of Pompeii tells a story. Just incredible. A day I’ll remember forever.
Refreshment stop en route back to campsite!
Friday – A Day Trip to Naples
We hopped on a train from our peaceful Pompei base to immerse ourselves in the vibrant chaos of Naples—the birthplace of pizza!
Armed with an audio guide, we roamed the historic, UNESCO-listed city, making stops for incredible pasta, warm sfogliatella from a tucked-away bakery, the oldest gelato in town, and finally, a legendary pizza at Naples’ oldest pizzeria. Every bite was better than the last (and yes, our bellies definitely felt it by the end).
We returned to Gandalf in a blissful, carb-filled haze.
Naples is bold, flavour-packed, and full of life. The food? Unforgettable. The graffiti? Not so much our taste.
Fun pizza fact:
The Margherita pizza as we know it today was born here in the late 1800s, created to honour Queen Margherita of Savoy. Its red (tomato), white (mozzarella), and green (basil) ingredients mirror the Italian flag.
Saturday – Capri Adventure
We extended our stay in Pompeii one last time to squeeze in a trip to Capri—and wow, what a day.
We took the train to Sorrento, then hopped on a high-speed ferry to the island.
While many head straight for the luxury shops and celebrity-studded restaurants, we made a beeline for the funicular and followed a popular hiking trail to the ruins of Emperor Tiberius’s old holiday home—Villa Jovis. Perched high above the sea, the views were outstanding, and the history was just as captivating. The trail, although mainly uphill for the 2km, was a on a good surface throughout and was also very well signposted. It also gave a great opportunity to get away from the hustle and bustle and take a closer look at some of the exquisite villas on the back streets.
We enjoyed a delicious homemade sandwich with mozzarella, tomato and prosciutto from a deli on the route back down to the town, and of course a limoncello spritz and limoncello gelato whilst on the island.
Back in Sorrento, we wandered the charming lemon-scented streets and enjoyed one final, glorious Italian pasta meal before heading back to camp, hearts full.
Here’s how we did it:
🚆 Train from Villa Regina to Sorrento – €3 | ~45 mins 🚶♀️ 10-minute walk to Sorrento harbour
⛴️ Ferry to Capri – €26 pp each way | Fast, scenic & 100% worth it
🚊 Funicular up to Capri town – 3 mins (or walk, bus, or taxi as alternatives)
Sunday – Moving On
Before saying goodbye to Pompeii, we visited Herculaneum. We took the van as we were moving on afterwards however this easily could be reached by train from the campsite.
Though smaller than Pompeii, its ruins are incredibly well-preserved—with taller, more intact buildings. Highlights included the ancient bakery oven and a beautiful shell mosaic, offering a totally different perspective to what we’d seen in Pompeii.
Spacious pitches set among fragrant orange trees, with a stunning view of Vesuvius.
Facilities: hot showers, washing up, laundry area.
Highly recommend—an excellent site!
Where to next? You’ll have to wait a couple of days til our next post! Alternatively, don’t forget that we’re on Polarsteps so you can follow us on there for real time updates. Click here for Polarsteps
