Easter Road Trip 2025: The Cinque Terre, Italy 🇮🇹

Two Days in Cinque Terre: Bikes, Boats, Trains & Trails

We just spent two full days exploring the beautiful Cinque Terre region — and honestly, it was the perfect mix of relaxed and adventurous. From cycling along the coast to ferry rides between colorful cliffside villages, here’s how we made the most of it.

Day One: Coastal Rides & Sea Views

We started off with a slow, scenic bike ride along a disused railway track from Levanto. The path runs Roth right along the coast, passing through old railway tunnels with amazing views popping out every so often. It’s only about 5 miles round-trip, so super manageable — more about soaking in the scenery than getting a workout.

After a drink by the sea back in Levanto, we hopped on the train just one stop to Monterosso. From there, after another quick drink, we we picked up the Cinque Terre ferry service. Pro tip: after 2pm, tickets are €28 per person for a return trip, and Jazz the dog got to ride for free. The boat cruise gave us a stunning view of all five villages from the water, and we got off at Riomaggiore to explore for an hour before sailing all the way back to Levanto.

Seeing the villages from the sea really gives you a unique perspective — it was such a great introduction to the area. We enjoyed a relax in Gandalf on site during the evening and a delicious chilli con carne.

Day Two: Trains, Trails & Pasta

We took things slower the next morning, starting with a coffee and a bit of a lie-in before heading out.

This time we grabbed the Cinque Terre Card, which gives you unlimited train travel between the villages and access to most of the hiking trails (except the famous Lovers’ Lane, which was is an additional €10pp- We declined).

We spent some time exploring Monterosso – with its atmospheric back streets and wide beach area it really is lovely.

We made our way on to Corniglia- higher in the cliff but with some great vistas. We enjoyed lunch in Corniglia’s main square — a simple but delicious pesto pasta (basil grows everywhere here), paired with a crisp local white wine that honestly might be one of the best we’ve ever had.

We broke up the train rides with a walk from Corniglia to Vernazza — just under two miles, with a few steep parts but nothing too intense if you take your time. The views were worth every step. Halfway through, we stopped at a little farm shop known for its lemons — everything they sell is lemon-based, from marmalade to limoncello. That limoncello definitely gave us the boost to finish the hike.

Vernazza was absolutely stunning — probably our favorite, along with Riomaggiore.

We spent some time wandering the final two villages just to soak in the atmosphere before heading back to Levanto on the train.

By the end of the day, we were completely wiped — but in the best way. Cinque Terre lived up to every bit of the hype, and seeing it from so many angles — on foot, by boat, bike, and train — made it even more special.

Campsite details:


📌 Camping Albero D’Oro

A lovely small campsite with a relaxed, welcoming vibe in a great location — just a 10-minute walk to the train station. The staff were super friendly, and the facilities were spotless and modern. It was quiet at night and felt very secure thanks to 24-hour security.

Cost was €50 per night (a bit steep), plus €1 per person per night tourist tax. For comparison, the nearby aire/sosta is €36 per 24 hours.

Easter Road Trip 2025: From the UK to Italy in 48 hours

The Easter holidays arrived in a blur this year. After what felt like one of the busiest work weeks I can remember, we were more than ready for a break—and we didn’t waste a second. By Friday lunchtime, bags were packed, snacks were stashed, and we were waving goodbye to the UK on the 13:54 Le Shuttle crossing, heading off on an ambitious road trip in Gandalf, our trusty VW campervan.

Day 1: Champagne Dreams in Troyes

Our first destination was Troyes, a charming medieval town in the Champagne region of France. After a smooth Eurotunnel crossing and a solid afternoon on the road, we arrived by Friday evening. We’d heard that Troyes is full of charm—cobbled streets, half-timbered buildings, and the kind of place perfect for a relaxed wander and a quiet drink. But after a hectic week at work and a long day on the road, we arrived just after 7:30pm and quickly decided to be sensible. Rather than push ourselves, we stayed put at Gandalf, made some food, and chilled out. Exploring Troyes is firmly on the list for next time. The overnight spot we picked was ideal for our route south, but with a 30-minute walk each way into town, it just wasn’t realistic given how shattered we were.

We stayed Here

€15 for 24 hrs inc electricity. €3 for water

Day 2: Lake Annecy – Bikes, Views, and Alpine Air

By Saturday lunchtime, we’d reached the stunning Lake Annecy, often dubbed the cleanest lake in Europe. The drive itself was scenic, winding through the French countryside and gradually revealing alpine peaks in the distance.

Once parked up, we hopped on our bikes and enjoyed a relaxed ride along the lakeside cycle paths.

The views across the water to the surrounding mountains were unforgettable, and the town of Annecy—affectionately known as the “Venice of the Alps”—was full of charm, cafés, and postcard-worthy corners.

Campsite at Lake Annecy

€26 for 2 people, 1 dog, and electricity with ACSI card

Great facilities, right on the cycle path, private access to lake (no dogs allowed at lakeshore though). Lidl and a Bus stop within a short walk.

Day 3: Through the Alps into Italy

Sunday began with a drive through the dramatic Chamonix Valley. Even after many road trips, this route took our breath away. Snow-dusted peaks, deep forests, and the promise of crossing into Italy through the Mont Blanc Tunnel kept the energy in Gandalf high.

Emerging on the Italian side felt like an instant shift—warmer air, Mediterranean colours, and winding roads heading down towards the Ligurian coast.

By Sunday afternoon, we rolled into Levanto, on the edge of the Cinque Terre. With Aperol spritz, cold beer, and a glass of bold Italian red in hand, we toasted the fact that in just three days, we’d made it from home to one of the most picturesque coastlines in Europe.

Settling In: Levanto and the Cinque Terre

We’re now parked up in Levanto for three nights, giving both Gandalf (our VW) and his driver a much-needed break. We think Levanto will be a perfect base—slightly quieter than the five famous Cinque Terre villages but connected by the local train line and even a converted railway line which is now a cycle trail, that hugs the cliffs and tunnels through the mountains. Over the next couple of days, we’ll be exploring these UNESCO World Heritage villages—each with its own unique vibe, colourful buildings, and dramatic coastal views.

Tips for Anyone Planning a Similar Trip:

Timing is everything: Leaving early Friday meant we beat a lot of the Easter rush and made solid progress on day one.

Stopovers matter: Choosing towns like Troyes and Annecy gave us something more than just a place to sleep—We like to have a little explore even on driving days (even though we failed on that this time at Troyes, having to listen to our bodies for a change instead!)

Mont Blanc Tunnel: It’s a smooth but pricey crossing (it cost us €54.80 one-way for a campervan), but worth it for the time saved and the views. Had we have not travelled through Mont Blanc tunnel from Annecy, we have only saved €13 (according to Waze, our navigation app)

Péages/ Tolls: When it comes to péages (toll roads), every traveller has their own take. Some swear by the slower, scenic routes; others (like us) often find ourselves on the toll roads, especially when time is limited.

Over the past three days, we’ve spent around £200 on tolls getting from the UK to Northern Italy—including the Mont Blanc tunnel, which alone is a chunk of that cost. It’s definitely not the cheapest way to travel, and if we had more time, we’d probably take it slower and avoid the tolls much more. After all, France is packed with incredible towns, villages, and countryside that you’re far more likely to stumble upon when you’re off the main autoroutes.

But the reality is, we rarely have more than two and a half weeks for a trip like this. So for us, toll roads are about efficiency—they get us to the “main event” of our journey as quickly as possible. Once we’re there, we can slow down and explore properly.

That said, there are definite downsides to the alternative. Non-toll roads can mean an endless series of roundabouts, slower traffic, and occasionally, bumpier surfaces. Our dog, for one, is not a fan. He’s developed a habit of barking at roundabouts—something that doesn’t happen on the toll roads where he happily snoozes through the smooth, straight stretches. So in our case, paying for tolls isn’t just about time—it’s also about keeping the peace in the van (and saving our ears!).

In short: if you’ve got time to meander, the non-toll routes are full of hidden gems. But if you’re on a schedule and want to maximise your time at the destination, toll roads can be worth every penny—and every bit of peace and quiet 😂 they bring.

Levanto as a base: Highly recommend. Less crowded than the Cinque Terre villages, and still full of great food, wine, and beachy vibes.

More updates to come as we explore this incredible coast—one village, one plate of pasta, a pizza and a couple of glasses of wine at a time.

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A Weekend of Steam, History, and Sunshine at Nene Valley

After celebrating a family wedding, we packed up and headed to Nene Valley campsite for a weekend of history, heritage railways, and a long-awaited bucket list moment.

A Walk with a View

On arrival, we took a beautiful four-mile walk along the heritage railway path, catching several glimpses of the mighty Flying Scotsman as it thundered past in the sunshine. There’s something truly special about seeing such an iconic locomotive in motion, knowing that my Great Grandad once drove it, along with the Mallard.

Our walk led us into Peterborough, where we stopped at the stunning Peterborough Cathedral—home to the tomb of Katherine of Aragon, the first wife of Henry VIII.

After soaking in the history, we popped into The Stoneworks Bar for a couple of well-earned drinks, picked up some essentials from Waitrose, and took an Uber back to Gandalf for a relaxed evening on site.

The Big Day – Flying Scotsman at Nene Valley Railway

Sunday morning was all about lazy starts and steam trains, watching the Flying Scotsman pass by our campsite before heading to Nene Valley Railway for the main event.

Finally, after years of dreaming, I got to ride behind the legendary locomotive that my Great Grandad once drove.

Its whistle echoed through the air, its green and black livery gleamed in the sunlight, and for a moment, it felt like stepping back in time. There really are no words to describe how incredible it was—just pure history, power, and nostalgia wrapped into one unforgettable experience.

A huge bucket list tick and a weekend I’ll never forget. 🚂✨ thank you Keefy for the tickets as an early bday present!

Stayed at Ferry Meadows Caravan and Motorhome Club site

Escape to the Yorkshire Dales: A New Year Adventure in Gandalf the VW

We kicked off 2025 in the best way possible, spending a week exploring the stunning Yorkshire Dales in our trusty camper van, Gandalf. From canal-side walks and dramatic limestone landscapes to hearty pub meals and cozy van nights, it was a New Year’s adventure to remember.

Day 1–3: Cononley, Gargrave & Skipton

Our journey began in the quaint village of Cononley, where we parked up at Riverside Campsite for three nights. This peaceful spot made a great base for exploring, and we wasted no time getting acquainted with the village’s two pubs—essential research, of course!

The next day, a short £5 return train journey whisked us to Gargrave, a picture-perfect village. After a delicious Yorkshire tapas lunch at The Masons Arms, we set off on a 5-mile canal walk along the Leeds & Liverpool Canal to Skipton. Low clouds couldn’t dull the charm of this scenic route. Once in Skipton, we celebrated with pints at The Woolly Sheep before returning to the van for a homemade curry.

The following day, we opted for another canal-side walk, this time from Cononley to Skipton. We explored Skipton’s cobbled streets, popped into the dog-friendly Skipton Castle, and enjoyed drinks at The Castle Inn. It was another great day and we really loved Skipton and the immediate surrounding areas.

Day 4: Malham’s Natural Wonders

Next, we moved campsites and en route couldn’t resist heading into Malham, where we embarked on a classic and well loved 5.5-mile walk through some of the Dales’ most iconic landmarks. Malham Cove, with its dramatic cliffs, awesome limestone pavement, and natural amphitheater formed by a prehistoric waterfall, was a highlight. From there, we visited Gordale Scar, an impressive gorge shaped by ancient glaciers. It was an unforgettable day of awe-inspiring scenery despite the absolute howling wind! After our Malham day, we continued the short distance to our next Campsite, and home for the next 3 nights, Dalesbridge Campsite.

Day 5–6: New Year’s Eve at Dalesbridge

We welcomed New Year’s Eve at the Dalesbridge Campsite, where torrential rain and gusty winds didn’t dampen our spirits. Instead, we took the opportunity to just stop and unwind, leaning into the slow paced van life vibes with board games, festive food, and plenty of wine. Our New Year’s menu included a prawn cocktail starter, cheese boards, butcher’s steaks from Skipton, and even a bottle of Châteauneuf-du-Pape.

The night was cozy despite the less-than-ideal campsite conditions (muddy pitches, huge site wide drainage issue, horrendous showers and noisy neighbours). We weren’t fans of the campsite at all, despite being steeped with history (a former Scarlett Fever hospital) the place seemed run down and not our sort of place at all. The highlight? Catching a glimpse of the Northern Lights on NYD.

Day 7: Dent & Ribblehead Viaduct

Our final stop was the charming village of Dent, known for its cobbled streets and picturesque setting. A detour due to road closures led us to the iconic Ribblehead Viaduct, where we captured stunning drone shots of the towering arches against the rugged Dales landscape. We also made a stop at Dent station, the highest mainline station in England.

In Dent, we took a peaceful but stunning 3-mile walk around Dentdale before winding down with a couple of drinks at the cozy George and Dragon pub. We’d have liked to have visited historic The Sun Inn, but like our last visit 5 years ago, it was closed! Dinner was a delicious Beef stew that had been cooking in slow cooker and was perfect considering it was -5 outside! Though High Laning Campsite was basic and a bit overpriced, the charm of Dent made up for it. Of we return, we’d pick Mill Beck CL over High Laning, which is a basic Certified site which offers much more space at a fraction of the price, but it would have to be during the summer months.

Final Stop: A Night in York

Before heading home, we couldn’t resist spending a Friday night in York, one of our favorite cities. We had been booked into the C&MC club site but it got cancelled due to flooding. So we stayed at York Caravan Park, an adults-only site with top-notch showers and easy access to the city via the late into the evening-running Coastliner bus.

Our evening began at the historic Black Swan Inn, known for its timber-framed charm and ghostly reputation. We visited the Roman Bath museum, situated underneath a pub! And took a stroll down the cobbled Shambles, such tourists, but we love it there, so we stopped for drinks in two historic taverns down The Shambles before meeting up with our pal Gary for dinner at his local.

We rounded out the night with pints at The Blue Boar, famously linked to Dick Turpin, (after his trial and execution for horse theft in 1739, his body was laid to rest in the cellar of this pub for public viewing!) and finished at The Three-Legged Mare, which hosts a lively Friday folk music night. The welcoming atmosphere (and dog-friendly vibe!) made it the perfect end to our trip.

Final Thoughts

From the dramatic limestone cliffs of Malham Cove to the charm of Skipton’s cobbled streets, the Yorkshire Dales delivered unforgettable scenery, cozy pubs, and a true sense of escape. Even the rain couldn’t dampen the magic of our New Year adventure.

Winter camping in a VW campervan comes with unique challenges. Campsites ranged from basic but practical, like Riverside Campsite (£20 pn, hot showers for £1), to disappointing, such as Dalesbridge (£38 pn, flooded pitches, cold showers) and High Laning in Dent (31.50 pn, cramped pitches, restrictive EHU rules, and extra charges). York Caravan Park stood out for its pristine facilities and luxurious showers but came with a hefty £48 pn price tag and limited EHU. We’ve realized that in winter, comfort matters more—heated facilities, unlimited EHU, and reliable showers are non-negotiable. Going forward, we’ll likely opt for premium sites to ensure a hassle-free stay. What are your winter camping essentials?

Read more about our campsite in this trip Read more about the campsites on this trip here

Stay tuned for more road trips with Gandalf the VW as we explore the UK and beyond! 🚐✨

#YorkshireDales #VanLifeAdventures #NewYearTrip #MalhamCove #SkiptonCastle #RibbleheadViaduct #DentVillage #VanLife

The Challenges of Winter Camping in a VW Campervan: Lessons Learned in the Yorkshire Dales

Winter camping in a small VW campervan like ours can be an incredible adventure, but it comes with unique challenges—especially when it comes to campsites. On our recent trip to the Yorkshire Dales, we were reminded how much our winter camping needs differ from the warmer months. Decent electric hook-up (EHU), hot showers, and practical site layouts become non-negotiable when you’re braving freezing temperatures in a tiny van.

Here’s our honest review of the campsites we stayed at, what worked, what didn’t, and how we’re rethinking our winter camping strategy going forward.

Riverside Campsite, Cononley

💰 £20 per night (plus £1 for showers)

✅ Pros: Great location, good EHU, and decent value for money.

❌ Cons: A bit basic and tatty; showers were hot but very simple.

Despite its rough edges, this was actually the most practical site for us. For £20 a night, we could forgive the £1 shower charge, and the site’s good location and fair pricing made it a solid choice for our needs.

Dalesbridge Campsite, Austwick

💰 £37 per night (includes EHU and showers) plus £1pn for the pooch.

✅ Pros: No additional charges for EHU or showers.

❌ Cons: Freezing cold showers, drainage issues, and a generally run-down feel.

This one was a disappointment. Torrential rain exposed poor drainage, turning most pitches and walkways into flooded swamps. The showers were awful (cold and unclean), and it felt like the site was prioritizing profits over the experience, selling pitches that were clearly unsuitable. Our pitch was hard standing, but those on grass pitches were in trouble and most had to be towed off. Surely these pitches shouldn’t be sold over winter months. A shame, as the potential of the site could be great, but for us, it just didn’t deliver. Not really any easy options for Public transport here either.

Before the rain came!

High Laning Campsite, Dent

💰 £29.50 per night (plus 50p showers and £2 per dog pn)

✅ Pros: Beautiful views, close to Dent village.

❌ Cons: Cramped, rough pitches and restrictive EHU rules.

The “premium hard-standing pitches” were more like a car park, and we were frustrated by the strict EHU guidelines—warnings about fan heaters and kettles tripping the power felt excessive (though we used a heater with no issues). The 50p shower charge on top of the already steep price felt stingy, and the £2 dog fee added to the feeling that we were being nickel-and-dimed. That said, Dent is a stunning village, and as the only year-round site in the area, they have little competition.

York Caravan Park

💰 £48 per night (includes £3 EHU allowance, £2 per dog)

✅ Pros: Excellent location, pristine facilities, and the best showers we’ve ever had!

❌ Cons: High price and limited EHU allowance.

This was the most expensive site of our trip, but it delivered in terms of quality. The site was immaculate, with manicured pitches and truly luxurious showers. However, the £3 daily EHU allowance felt stingy—especially during sub-zero temperatures when running a fan heater was essential. Paying £48 per night and still worrying about topping up EHU was a letdown, and the £2 dog fee added to the frustration.

Winter Camping Reflections

Winter camping has reminded us that comfort becomes a bigger priority in colder weather. Going forward, we’re leaning towards higher-end sites—like Caravan and Motorhome Club locations—where £50 per night includes unlimited EHU, heated facilities, and guaranteed clean, hot showers.

We’re learning that not all campsites are created equal, especially in winter, and sometimes paying more for a hassle-free stay is worth it. Also, not all campsites resemble their images and write ups from their website making planning more of a challenge as we start to doubt the literature we’re presented with on websites before we book.

What About You?

How do you handle winter camping in a campervan? Have you found any campsites that hit the sweet spot for comfort, value, and facilities? Drop your recommendations—we’d love to hear about your winter camping gems!

Stay tuned for more adventures with Gandalf the VW as we explore the UK and beyond! 🚐✨

#VanLife #WinterCamping #CampervanAdventures #YorkshireDales