Tulips in Holland; May Bank Holiday 2017 

Ruby the campervan is parked up near to Lisse, Holland after surviving her first (of many, we hope!) cross channel crossings. This time we opted for the ferry crossing from Harwich, Essex rather than our usual method, the Channel Tunnel. The main reason is that we are cramming a little weekend away utilising bank holiday Monday and the fact that we had no work Friday. We didn’t finish work until 7pm Thursday though, so the 11pm overnight Stena Line sailing from Harwich, a mere hours drive from us, was appealing. We were also able to use our Tesco Clubcard vouchers to soften the blow budget wise. My main concern was Jazz the dog, he’s a bit of an anxious thing and I wasn’t sure if he’d be ok with the crossing. We booked him out an on board kennel and learned that there are cameras linked to your cabin so you can keep an eye on them. 

So worked finished and by 8:30pm we were pulling into Harwich port, after a smooth check in and a short wait boarding commenced. First stop was the doggie kennels, Jazz got checked in and howled as predicted, we found our cabin and cued the doggie cameras, he was still howling 😞 We both had a quick shower each, which by the way was a fantastic power shower! cracked a beer, gin for me, and went and had a little explore. We couldn’t resist a pitcher of Heineken on the outside deck, before returning to our room for a cheese board picnic. Jazz was still barking by the looks of things. I did my best not to feel like a bad dog parent and we turned the channel and watched question time. A full on day of teaching soon caught up with me though and I’d hit the sack before we even left Harwich, the next thing I know and it was an alarm through the tannoy to say we would be arriving in an hour, and that breakfast was being served. Time for a shower, quick coffee and picking up Jazz, who was in a big grump but had survived the crossing, and before we knew it we were back in Ruby and rolling off into Holland at Eight o clock prompt!


Our first stop was Lisse, a town famous for being home to Keunkenhof, the world famous spring gardens. Before we arrived at our campsite, Camping Van de Eden, we had an appointment with the local vets for Jazz’s “return to England”Passport stamp/tablet. Colin the copilot did a great job guiding us out of the port area and on to Lisse, depositing us directly outside the vets, half an hour early. We had a quick croissant, before going to see if the vet could see us a little early. He did, and best of all, only charged us €6.50! That has to be the record cheapest vets bill we’ve ever had! 


We arrived at the campsite at the early time of 10:00 but luckily the lady was happy for us to pitch up. So a grand total of 10 hours after boarding our ferry, 7 of which I was asleep for, or 13 hours after finishing work, we had arrived and were set up, having a cuppa tea. Perfect. 

After a campsite reccie and an early lunch where we got to try out our new gadget, a gas ring toastie (not just toasties though!) maker, 👌👌👌, we unloaded the bikes and went in search of some tulips. 

 It didn’t take long before we spotted a field of mass pink flowers. The smells are amazing although as our friend pointed out, perhaps not if you have hay fever!





Our campsite is right on a river and our favourite windmill just half a mile downstream. Isn’t it picture perfect with its thatched walls.


We arrived back to Ruby and had a doze, before an early tea of cheesy nachos (done in my new toastie maker) and chilli. An early night follows as we want to be up early for Keukenhof tomorrow. 

Saturday dawned sunny but a bit fresh. We were up for 08:00, and enjoyed a bacon and egg roll with fresh bread off the campsite lady. Yum. We are right next to a dairy farm which produce their own cheese so naturally we popped into their farm shop to have a taste and buy. Sadly they (as well as the campsite) don’t take MasterCard and Euro cash is therefore rashioned so we only were able to buy a smallish chunk of their extra mature which is delicous. 

We unloaded our bikes and set off on a 5km cycle to the Keukenhof Gardens. Cycling over here is a joy even if it took a bit of getting used to with the numbering of routes. It was an easy cycle and we arrived about 10am. Already it was looking busy but getting in was a doddle, I’d ordered tickets online and we literally queue jumped and walked straight in. I’d highly recommend this rather than trying to buy tickets on the day. You get a month to use the ticket from purchase day.

You get a free map of the park and it was a real shock how large it was. We spent almost 5 hours wandering round and admiring the thousands of different varieties of not only tulips but also hyacinths and many other spring bulbs. The smell was heavenly. We paused only briefly for a coffee and stooplewaffel (Danish Waffle) which was delicious, so much so we bought a pack for Ruby’s afternoon tea, and a beer to accompany our pack lunch. It became extremely busy, unsurprisingly, seeing as its the world’s best spring gardens and by almost 3pm we had had our fill. 

Despite the crowds we had a wonderful visit and highly recommend a trip to Keukenhof to anyone reading. Try and cycle or bus in to save an additional €6parking though Entry into park €16pp.

We took a leisurely cycle back along the canal and past more gorgeous fields of colour before reaching Ruby, who smelt amazing as I’d left a joint of ham in the slow cooker. Dinner sorted it was time to chill and reflect on our lovely couple of days.

Time to move to Haarlem tomorrow 

Until next time 

Lx

India Part 5. The traditional village of Patan

Wednesday morning soon arrived and after a delicious breakfast of paneer stuffed Paratha it was time to hit the road again. As we left the hotel we picked up the spice and tea man, who showed us all the spices and different tea and insence fragrances he had to offer from the comfort of our air conditioned coach seat whilst en route! I could get used to this style of travel/shopping let me tell you! Sadly I had a bit of jippy belly- not Delhi belly but just an overdose of spices- I’d embraced Indian food morning, lunch and evening, and on top of 40+ degrees and so wasn’t feeling on top form. Our ever decreasing stash of travel cash, and my long suffering husband both managed a heavy sigh of relief when I could only face picking up some masala tea and some saffron for mum before forcing myself to sleep for the journey! If I weren’t feeling so rotten I probably could would have brought enough for Mr spice man to retire early!


Thankfully after a doze, plenty of water and a couple of bananas, I was starting to feel back to normal just as we pulled off a marginally bumpy A road equivalent into basically a dirt track! By the time we reached the point that the coach couldn’t go any further we were met by a collection of camels, carts and a band welcoming us off the coach! Apparently this was our transport to the next hotel, the phenomenally beautiful Patan Mahal Heritage hotel. We were treated to a Royal welcome which let me tell you, I think I could get rather used too!


The hotel has apparently had lots of investment from Great Rail who basically turned it round from a wreck to what is now a beautiful, beautiful characteristic hotel with mountain views that are just breathtaking. In doing this, the hotel now can employ lots of locals from the village and therefore they do truly think of us as royalty.


On arrival we were greeted with flower garlands, bindies and a nice drink. Our room was marvellous- it had a mezzanine that had 3 separate rooms including one in the turret! We also had a terrace and a huge bathroom. We were in heaven.

We raced to the pool, bagged a sun lounger each, and set out our stall for the remainder of the afternoon along with the rest of the group. Everyone was buzzing!



At 5pm Mavi took us for a walk through the village to witness traditional village life. We watched as the ladies sat on the porch making bangles (I may have had a little shop too!) we went to see the Potter, saw the small holding, and I even joined in the local ladies yoga, which I may add, I am NOT a natural at! It didn’t help that I was wearing a long skirt (excuses excuses hey!) and I will never forget Mavi’s face as I tried to get my leg over my shoulder! Maybe his translation was off…!

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That evening was our last as a group and so the hotel put on a gala farewell dinner. We had musicians and dancers, it was fantastic and we even had a go ourselves at the dancing. Keith is NOT a natural but fair do, he gave it his all. What a perfect last night.


The next morning we had the morning around the pool before the local school bus ferried us all back to the main coach and we had our journey back to Delhi. I could feel the emotion bubbling up, I was so not ready to say goodbye to Marvi and the boys.  We dropped the main group back to the airport, we were staying over at the airport hotel as we were flying back direct in the morning and we got driven to the airport hotel to say our farewells which was emotional! What an absolutely FANTASTIC team they were. Without them (and Ian, the Great Rail Tour Manager of course, who was constantly smiling and checking we were all ok) this trip wouldn’t have been the same.

We fell in love with India- the people, the food, the history, the chaos. I can’t recommend this tour enough- it’s almost a week since we are home and I still feel sad about leaving!

If you are considering travelling to India we highly recommend taking this tour with Great Rail.
Until next time,

Lx

India Part 4. Jaipur

Following our camel cart ride on Badel the camel around Sawai Madhopur and then a big laze around the beautiful swimming pool area, we had an early lunch and waved farewell to the staff at the lodge. We had a four hour coach journey towards Jaipur, where we were to be based for 3 nights.

During the coach journey, our Indian guide, Mavi was on form, talking to us for the majority of the journey about all aspects of Indian life. I was totally gripped, his stories were so personal, but highly interesting – he explained the cast system and talked to us about his experiences of life as the oldest brother and the responsibilities that brought. He explained abut the school infrastructure, taxes, and told us some historical stories local to the area we were traveling through. Before we knew it we were cruising into Jaipur- but not before the house bottle of gin had been opened for a sundowner. That’s right- our wonderful hosts had organised an on board bar for us beer guzzling brits. And what a fabulous idea it was.


On arrival at the Trident Jaipur we were given a bindi and welcomed in. Keith and I whizzed off to change into our swimwear – our top tip would be to pack your swim wear in your hand luggage – it sometimes takes a few minutes for the luggage to be unloaded and distributed, wasting valuable pool time! We had a quiet evening which was ideal as tomorrow was another big day!

Monday dawned and with it came another fairly early start. We all met at 08:30 and were bundled onto our coach towards the Palace of the Winds. This is one of Jaipur’s most iconic images and it really is beautiful.

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After a token photo with a snake charmer (bucket list, tick!) we moved on to the Jantar Mantar, which houses a collection of 19 architectural astronomical instruments built in the 1700s, which was just staggering. It’s now a UNESCO World Heritage site, and I can certainly see why. The largest sun dial was absolutely ginormous. All of the instruments on display had been hand built and were designed to enable observation of astronomical positions with the naked eye.

 

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After an hour or so guided tour we continued on to the City Palace, which is still a Royal Residency. It was, as we had come to expect, another fabulous display of courtyards, gardens and buildings. Many of the buildings now house mini museums, and we got to see a large collection of Royal clothes and weapons.

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As part of this there was an opportunity to meet some artists who use natural colour (taken from rock colours mixed with water) to paint the most beautiful paintings, on rice paper and silk. Naturally we had a little spend, still excited from our Tiger experience we purchased a hand drawn tiger and an elephant on silk.

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Next stop was a gem shop/jewellers where we got to see how gem stones are cleaned up and made into specialist jewellery. Let’s just say this particular stop added a little dent to someone’s credit card. Ahem!


👆handmade to measure, fire opal (my birthstone) #justsaying #boydidgood

We nipped back to the hotel for a bite to eat – we tried the chicken tikka pizza! Which was yum, before a quick swim and then it was time for another highlight of the trip, a trip to a local elephant sanctuary.

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This trip actually came about after I enquired to the lovely Ian, our tour manager, whether we may be able to go and see some elephants somewhere. He worked on it specially for us, and then the next thing was that we got told it was happening and he was opening it out to the group (if we didn’t mind, which of course we didn’t). The coach, all the tour guides and driver’s assistant were assembled and 17 of us headed off towards Eletastic for an afternoon of one to one time with some rescued elephants. Oh they were ADORABLE! So incredibly gentle. We got to bond with our elephant, which on my part meant LOTS of cuddles with Carly the Elephant, we got to feed them tons and tons of sugar cane, then we got to paint them with natural non chemical paint (apparently this is a tradition) then bath and scrub them down, which they LOVED. Then we all went for a walk with our elephants. Absolutely marvellous and something that neither of us will ever EVER forget.

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After our time with the elephants, Keith and I were absolutely drained, so opted for a quiet dinner and an early night. You  know when you just literally can’t take another thing in – this holiday was fast becoming a trip of a lifetime, every single day was producing the most incredible sights and experiences. We needed some time out! Needless to say, the minute our heads hit the pillow at 8.30pm we were sound asleep for 10 whole hours.

Tuesday arrived and it was another fairly early start. This time we were heading to The Amber Fort, another well known Jaipur landmark. Those who visited the elephants were still in awe (us too!). At the fort it was a little bit upsetting as there are lots of elephants who work doing elephant rides all day up and down the hill here. It was boiling hot, and although it’s apparently much better than it used to be, after yesterday’s experience, I think we will always be upset seeing elephants being worked in this manner.
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The fort was spectacular. We had an interesting Jeep ride up the hill to the fort- our diver got out and punched another one’s driver, right on the nose! – goodness knows why, but good old Marvi sorted it out and we were soon on our way. It was probably the most chaotic of all the places we visited, there were loads of sellers, and even more selfie sticks! (including mine, lol!) The highlight for me was the beautiful marble gates and also the mirrored walls. Apparently back then mirrors were extremely difficult to come by, so displaying lots of mirrors on the walls was a sign of wealth.

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After a few hours it was time to board our jeeps and travel back down to the coach.

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We were dropped back at the hotel and a man came and gave henna tattoos to those who were interested. Me of course! 

We then re grouped at 4.30 (those who wanted to) for a trip to the local market. Wow, what a great experience that was! Chaotic yes, but we so enjoyed having some free time and being set loose to do our own haggling, which we did with enjoyment! We got some right bargains too! It happened to be the Monkey God festival too so we enjoyed some music and a parade.

All to soon, we were packing our cases again, and the realisation that our trip was coming to an end hit us. Still, we had one more location to visit, a heritage hotel, so we headed for an early night dreaming of tigers, elephants and Ruby the camper van’s MOT next week!! Haha

Until next time

Lx

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

India Part 3. Fatehpur Sikri to Ranthambore National Park

Friday dawned and it was a fairly early start. We packed an overnight bag as although we were receiving our suitcases that evening it would be after dinner as we were travelling by train and our bags via coach which was a good 4 hours drive.

We left the Trident Agra after our short but lovely stay and travelled an hour or so to Fatepur Sikr on the coach. Fatehpur Sikri is a now abandoned city, complete with city walls, but once was home to the Mughals, and was in fact their first planned city. It’s built out of sandstone and stands impressively on a small hillock with views all around.

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Nowadays it’s listed as UNESCO world heritage site, and we enjoyed a fascinating tour around with Marvi’s amazing commentary, seeing both the winter and summer palaces, along with the ladies and men’s quarters.

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The main carpark is about half a mile away so we transferred onto small coaches to get to the entrance. That in itself was quite an experience!

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During our visit we saw some incredible carvings in the sandstone and also some original paintings onto the sandstone of elephants.

After our visit, we rejoined the coach, and went towards a different hotel which we called into for Lunch. It seemed to be the meeting place for several similar groups passing through, but the buildings were particularly grand and the food nice.

Next stop was the train station where we boarded our train for 3 hours, towards Sawai Modpur, where the National park is.

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This train was totally different in feel, and slightly cleaner. We preferred this train to the previous one as the seats were large and leather and it had a bot of a 1920s feel to the carriage. There was a bit of a hoo hah as our booked tickets had different people sat in but good ol’ Ian and Marvi soon sorted it and we were on our way. Keith had another interesting toilet experience here – I however just crossed my legs. We almost drank some tea on the train, but thankfully Marvi caught Keith’s eye just as we raised the cup to our glass- as if to say “I wouldn’t if I were you” – we decanted the tea into an old water bottle and wow it absolutely stank of stale manky water!

We were met off the train by the manager of the Raj Vivante Lodge and he had brought a couple of “canter” jeeps to pick us up. This was our first taste of tomorrow’s safari.

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After a fabulous welcome at this former hunting lodge (where the British Royal Family stayed in the 1960s,  we among with our pool buddies went straight to the pool for an evening dip. We were joined by the resident fruit bats who gave quite a show to us, including dipping in the pool whilst we were in it for some water!

We had a lovely evening at the lodge, including a night cap of Indian Whiskey in the bar area- but it was filled in some part with apprehension- we had a very early start tomorrow- 05:15 our wake up call has been booked for – the reason. We’re off to hopefully see a tiger on safari. Would we be lucky and see this majestic animal.

Saturday arrived very quickly indeed- I felt like I’d only just nodded off when the alarm went off. Keith and I had a mutual understanding not to talk to each other for at least half an hour- we both do NOT do that time of day. By 6:00 we were on our canters and met by our park ranger who travelled with us the short distance into the park. Before we had got through the gates a group of jeeps had congregated all looking up on the hillside. We soon discovered they had spotted the leopard, sat cooly upon his rock, surveying his land below. Apparently the leopard is rarer than the tiger, so it’s safe to say the mood was electric. But this was only the start. We drove on through the park, our ranger constantly with one ear listening to the animals’ dawn chorus, trying to figure out where the tiger was. We sat for a period of time and nothing other than very timid Spotted deer and Summer deer were around and after proabably half an hour of not seeing a huge amount we moved towards the water. We saw a family of wild boar, a kingfisher, parokeets, and even a black Kite – but no tiger. We drove around to another stretch of water and saw a crocodile, and then two more. Still no sign of the tiger and by this time the mood was slipping. Noone was ready to moan about not seeing it of course, this is natural surrounding and not a zoo. However I know I was starting to feel disappointed – It’s only natural right?! Next thing, near to a family of monkeys, our guide spotted a commotion down over in the distance. A large group of animals  were running en mass away- it turned out to be an antelope – but our ranger had other suspicions. Two minutes later he orders us to “hang on tight” and my goodness me, we really needed to. The driver CHARGED  a mile or so down a bumpy dirt track with us 15 brits hanging on for dear life, but howling with laughter in the back. Next thing was a blur – we seemed to turn a corner and then we were faced with a real live TIGER, just strolling past us for a sunbath. Wow, just wow. I cried and cried and cried! What an INCREDIBLE sight. I’l never forget how beautiful and graceful this creature was. The range moved the van a few feet and we found it’s mate on it’s way to join him. What an addrenaline packed morning and it wasn’t even 09:30am.

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We were returned to the hotel where breakfast was served-the mood in the hotel was ecstatic. Noone could believe what we’d seen. It was at this point, Ian, the tour manager admitted that this was a VERY rare occurrence for Great Rail groups.

We had a few hours of free time before we were back on the canters for Safari round 2. This time we took a more mountainous route which was so bumpy – I don’t think I stopped laughing once. it was so so funny bouncing around the back! The bumpiness was what I imagine being flung around inside a tumble drier is like. During the afternoon safari we saw another tiger but this one was further away and also 3 sloth bears and a baby crocodile.

What an absolutely incredible day- when I thought nothing would ever beat being at the Taj Mahal then this happens!

That evening we enjoyed some traditional Indian Music whilst we had our dinner before an earlyish night.

Sunday soon arrived and we had some free time to spend at the lodge hotel. We teamed up with another couple and went on a camel ride around the local town. This was a fascinating insight into life here – we passed through the market area and also got caught on the duel carriageway during rush hour. At one point we had a combine harvester UNDER taking us. Mental! We marvelled at the scaffolding attempts (see pic below, can you spot the man free hanging on a self built hanging ladder?!)

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After lunch it was time to bid a very fond farewell to this part of the country. The staff here are excellent- clearly nature lovers, everyone was excited to hear about our sightings and see our pictures- one of the waiter’s couldn’t wait to show us his picture of the leopard on a nearby hotel wall which he discovered on his way home recently. Wow!

Our next stop is Jaipur.

Until Next Time

Lx

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

India Part 2. Agra Fort and Taj Mahal

Thursday was a very early start indeed, in fact I can’t believe I’m still awake writing this now! We were to meet at 06:30 in reception, the hotel very kindly provided a light breakfast and most importantly coffee and we were on the road for 06:45. The reason for our early start was the 08:00 train to Agra, what an experience!



We were booked into the first class cabin and told repeatedly it was nearly new service. Wow, if this is the new one, goodness knows what the old ones are like that’s all I can say.

Don’t get me wrong, it was a fabulous experience and I wouldn’t have changed it for the world. Well, I may have just cleaned it a little perhaps. There was grime, hairs, dust, it just felt dirty. However positively, there was loads of legroom, big windows (although seeing our wasn’t too easy!) and we got breakfast included too.

 Keith’s toilet experience has ensured that no french toilet will ever daunt him again- he mistook the loo for the western one- it was the Indian one, which was a hole in the train carriage and basically your “business” just fell out onto the track! But, he came out happy to have had the experience. And that’s what India is. A truly awesome yet out of this world experience. We did get to poke our head on the three tiered sleeper train, and boy was this an eye opener. Made ours look like a Bentley.



We arrived at Agra station and was collected by coach and taken to our hotel for the the night, the Tident Agra. Wow, it’s AMAZING here. After a quick freshen up we were out again, this time to Agra Fort. I dont think many of us had braced ourselves for this, I certainly hadn’t- today’s focus for everyone was the Taj Mahal later. How wrong we were. It is simply breathtaking. Absolutely huge and in really great condition, it’s a mix between red sandstone and marble and despite it being 42degrees,  we couldn’t help but be amazed and in awe.



We had lunch break back at the hotel, which will go down in history as my most favourite lunch break ever. A group of us hit the pool area, which is stunning, and were brought beers into the pool to enjoy. We ordered paneer rolls for lunch, also brought to the pool, and we had the most chilled out (yet 40 degree!) lunch I can remember,

Soon it was time to head out again, this time to the main feature, the Taj Mahal. Well, I don’t even know how to put into words a description of this wonderful experience. All I can say is it’s much more beautiful than any photo you will ever see, and so incrediblly huge. It’s perfectly symmetrical, which given it was constructed before the helping head of a computer, is amazing. Just make sure you take a pack of tissues, I blubbed like a baby! And so did many others in our tour. Incredible and I’d go as far as saying life changing! Wow


Back to the coach and our Indian guide, Marvi, had a row of souvenir sellers to show us. An interesting take on buying over here, I must say but – it works. The tourist resorts are teeming with sellers, and apparently trying to rip us off. Marvi haggles for us, gettting a fixed low price, then introduces the item in a similar fashion to on QVC, if you like it, you pay. A member of our group broke away to buy a fridge magnet. He was charged 500 rupees to start (£5) and haggled to 200 (£2). I was miffed when he got to the coach as I wanted one- then Merv, our guide, brings a fridge magnet seller on board, and says they are 50 rupees (50p!) so it works!

Back to the hotel we went, in time for an evening dip and then dinner. It’s another Indian buffet tonight, and it was delicious. We sank a few jars trying to make sense of what we saw today. Absolutely awesome.


Until next time

Lx

India, Part 1. London to Delhi

Ruby the campervan is safely parked up at my Dad’s house, and we are over 5000 miles away, in Delhi, India! So excuse the non motorhome posts for a week or so, we are still on wheels though, just not Motorhome wheels!

Monday 3rd April and we travelled from Newark to London on the train. We had a particularly lovely journey, helped by the fact that by chance we were sat by two individuals who had just come back from India! Behind them was a couple who had done the Great Rail USA Coast to coast, like us, and so we spent 1.5 hours talking about all things travel. Perfect.

We had a few hours to kill in London before our flight so headed towards the National History museum for a wander. It was enjoyable although it is starting to look a little dated unfortunately. Nonetheless, we enjoyed our visit and after a couple of hours made our way to Heathrow. We were travelling separately to the main group, as we didn’t fancy the dual flight when a shorter direct flight with Virgin was available. They left a few hours prior to us, yet arrived only a couple of hours before, so we felt it was a worthy upgrade. We also got to travel on the stunning Virgin Dreamliner aircraft, which was just that, a total dream. Less than eight hours later and we were touching down, or rather bouncing down (turbulence 😱) at Delhi. We were met by private transfer who whisked us to our hotel where we met our tour manager Ian, and had the afternoon and evening at leisure. A welcome two hour nap, and an hour at the pool followed! 

Wednesday dawned and we were up early. We were out on a full day excursion of both Old and New Delhi today. First stop, The Jama Masjid, which is one of the largest Mosques in India. The courtyard can accommodate more than 25,000 people! Delhi is actually the second largest populated city in the world. This mosque was gorgeous. We (the ladies) got given traditional gowns and the men who were wearing shorts got given skirts to wear. 


After this we went on a rickshaw ride around the tiny crammed streets of Old Delhi. What fun this was, we both were in stitches laughing. The roads were mainly pot holes, and at several points our driver had to get off and push us- well, we did have thirds fourths at the Indian buffet last night! We saw monkeys about the street and the electrical wiring has to be seen to be believed. The streets were crammed with people going about their daily duties, carrying fruit, hay, gas bottles, you name it, people cooking biryani on the floor, colourful flower displays, it was fantastic attack of the senses. I loved it! 


Our coach then took us to Gandi’s memorial site, a nicely landscaped, but very understated memorial made of marble along with an eternal flame.
We were taken to lunch at a carpet shop, lol, we were tempted until we realised that the smallest one not much bigger than a bath mat was almost £1000! The tea we were given was delicious, a green tea with cardamom and fennel seeds. After this we went to Qutb Minar, a UNESCO site, that is the worlds largest rubble masonry minaret. It has ruins with beautiful carvings surrounding it. One funny thing here, we got mobbed! Don’t panic Mum and Dad, for some reason the Indian tourists are FASCINATED by us westerners, and therefore we are finding we are being asked for selfies everywhere! At one point I had an entire Indian family of 10 fighting who could stand next to me for a selfie! Our guide tells us it’s because they are fascinated by our fair skin. Move over Brad and Angelina! Lol

Our final stop of the day was Humayun’s tomb, the Mughal Emperor’s tomb, built by his wife, and now a UNESCO site. We love the red sandstone and symmetrical designs. 

After a full on day we returned to the hotel. The Oberon Maiden’s Hotel in time for happy hour. Hurrah! We enjoyed the Indian buffet again for dinner, before evading to bed, tomorrow we head to Agra to tick off a bucket list item- The Taj Mahal. 
Until then 

Lx 

Pulham Pigs – both us and the airships!

Ruby the Campervan is snuggled up on her lonesome, behind BritStop 243/17, a farm shop/cafe in Norfolk.  Despite being 20 miles from our front door we had no idea this place even existed until the new BritStop book arrived! How we have lived without this place in our lives, I will never know, but I worry that now that we do know about it, we may have to remortgage the house! LOL

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This week has been one of the busiest I can remember work wise. On Friday, we hosted our very own ABRSM Music Exam day, which was a pretty big deal but thankfully went well, and so when we saw the forecast for the weekend showing no rain, we had no hesitation in having a flick through the BritStop bible.

On top of our already ridiculous week- on Wednesday, Ruby decided to throw her toys out of the pram! The central locking on the passenger side broke, leaving the passenger door stuck in deadlock- not ideal, but not immediately urgent- until we realised that the fuel light had just come on and you can’t open the fuel cap without opening the passenger door. Argh. Cue an emergency day off to get it sorted, which turned into Ruby beinIMG_5266g away for 2 days, and us being relegated to a tiny, TINY KA – amusing watching 6foot 4 Keith trying to get in and out of that let me tell you, and don’t get me started on fitting all our musical instruments in there…

 

 

Anyhow, by the time Saturday arrived we were chomping at the bit for a change of scenery.  It was also a good excuse for us to try out our new tow bar and tow bar fitted bike carrier, so Keith loaded them up whilst I threw some food bits into the fridge. Because obviously visiting a farm shop we wouldn’t find anything for dinner.. said no-one ever! We are chuffed to bits with the bike rack- its been a little bit of a headache finding a rack that would allow us to open the boot with the bikes still on, but this Atera bike rack ticks that box, and is amazing- its so easy to use.

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We were on the road by midday and 30 mins later we were rolling onto the large car park. We introduced ourselves to the owner Stuart, who couldn’t have been nicer if he tried- and got busy taking a tour around the HUGE farm shop. If you are into eating/cooking local then this is the place for you. WOW. Meats, Cheeses, Pies, Dairy, Fresh Veg, Fudge, Ales, Wines, Whiskey, Gin… we managed to spend £40 but managed to get two juicy fillet steaks, sausages for breakfast, potatoes, cheese, mushrooms, 3 ales, a pack of fudge, sausage rolls, and a pork pie! We enjoyed the sausage roll and pork pie for lunch and set off on a little cycle ride round the local area.

We cycled through Pulham St Mary and Pulham Market, which were once home to an airbase that had several operating Airships, known locally as Pulham Pigs because of their shape.

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The Church in Pulham St Mary was amazing, it had a unusual two story porch and lots of wooden medieval carvings inside.

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We passed a fantastic old station that has been renovated into a house. The owner was tinkering in his garden so we had a nice chat with him. The station was a stop on the London to Lowestoft line and he’d done a marvellous job in restoring it including the original gates.

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We carried on along quiet country lanes until we reached the pretty Pulham Market, and resisted the urge to stop for a pint.

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We did a bit of geocaching on route and returned to Ruby after 11 miles in perfect time for Afternoon Tea – served with the fudge we had bought earlier and in our china of course. Nothing but the best in these parts!

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The remainder of the afternoon was spent chilling- I did some knitting and Keith watched some crappy tv. Soon the farm shop closed, and we were locked in for the evening. We cracked open some drinks before cooking our fillet steaks. I knocked up some homemade chips and garlic mushrooms to accompany them and we also had some peppercorn sauce. Yum, yum, yum. It dawned on us that even though we had perhaps spent more than we intended, a meal like that in a pub would have been a lot more, and we could wear our Jim Jams! And of course, we had our accommodation for free. Win win.

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After dinner we enjoyed a lovely cheese board before an hour or so of Saturday Night tv and an early night. It was so peaceful, we slept like logs. As the sun rose we were treated to a live version of the dawn chorus, including a tawny owl nearby. We were up relatively early and a made us a full english including the local sausages, which were delicious. We said thank you and goodbye to Stuart the owner, who seemed as thrilled as we did- we were his first Britstoppers and he insisted on taking a pic of us to celebrate! Before we left we had a walk around a nearby woodland, which was lovely- the rain stayed away and we did a couple more geocaches before heading home via Diss to do some errands.

A perfect escape from a crazy schedule- we’ve returned feeling ready to tackle next week!

Until Next Time

Lx

 

A night away across the border. Feb 2017

Ruby the Campervan is parked up back at home after a quick night away, across the border to Suffolk. We had a crazy week of work, so decided a BritStop night away would be the perfect thing to look forward to, to celebrate our new 2017 edition of the BritStop Bible arriving.

Hello New BritStops book

We had a lavishly long lie in on Saturday, not getting up until 11:30, but the ease of having our camper van back out on the drive made for a really speedy getaway- we were on the road for 12:30, stopping briefly to return a couple of bike racks to Halfords, before arriving at Clare Country Park in time for a Campervan Cookbook lunch of Campfire Quesadillas. 


We substituted the campfire for Ruby’s hob, and washed lunch down with a refreshing beer and a wander along the old Railway Path, around the old Railway buildings and ruins of Clare Castle and Priory. The weather was dull and dismal, but we enjoyed the leg stretch and the fresh air nonetheless, although it was sad to see so many trees blown over due to the recent Storm Doris. The winds were hanging on a bit actually so it was a bit drafty to send  Donny my Parrott Drone up- a shame as I bet it would be a good arial shot – never mind though, always next time!


We had a little wander around the picturesque village of Clare and I stuck my head into a couple of the shops – as much as I could get away with anyway, Keith’s not the biggest shopper in the world, before having a cuppa and a jam doughnut back in Ruby!


We made our way ten mins or so to our BritStop location for the night, no. 232 in the 2017 book, a charming 16th Century pub near to Sudbury. The draw of the pub was that the landlord/chef doesn’t have a menu as such, he just cooks you what you fancy, depending on what local ingredients he has in. He also has a microbrewery onsite, we finished off his latest batch of bitter- it was yum!


We parked up, introduced ourselves and arranged to go back in 6ish to decide upon what to eat and have a beer. We used the time to play with our new gadget- a portable TV which, one you plug a memory card in has the function to record Live TV. We had zero phone signal at the pub, so my hopes of recording Ant and Dec’s Saturday Night Takeaway were rather slim, so I enjoyed half an hour of knitting whist Keith played around with the TV. I was therefore mighty surprised when the next thing I hear is the roar of the rugby coming from this iPad sized screen- Keith had attached the magnetic ariel to the side of the van and it had somehow found a full digital signal! We were stunned. It has a 12v plug so can run off the leisure battery, or run without being plugged in for 2 hours.


We set it to record and went inside, ready for a beer. The welcome was warm, and not just because of the roaring log fire. The landlord was a right character, but his enthusiasm and passion for cooking impossible not to latch on to. He discussed menu options with us and disappeared into the kitchen, leaving us in the company of a friendly local, and before we knew it the most delicious garlic mushrooms were delivered to our table, which we absolutely wolfed down! Main course arrived next and we enjoyed a fabulous patter of curries and accompaniments, all lovingly homemade.


We had a fabulous night, and were shocked when the bill came to less than £50. A perfect evening.  The recording on the TV had worked perfectly so we watched bit of Ant and Dec before having an early night- we must have needed it as we slept for almost 12 hours straight! We are finding the bed in Ruby extremely comfortable, even Keith, who has rigged up the portapotty at the end of his side of the bed so he has extended the bed by an extra foot- enabling us to both be able to stretch out fully.

Sunday dawned a little brighter so after a fairly lazy morning we set off home via Ickworth National Trust. It’s a favourite of ours, and this time we parked up in the overflow carpark which gave us panoramic views of the farm land, which Keith enjoyed whilst I cooked my very first Fry up in Ruby. It was a bit of a juggle on only 2 hobs but I managed it with no stress- I’m definitely enjoying the sitting down cooking approach!


We had a big walk around the grounds before heading Ruby’s wheels in the direction of home, vowing to return to our new favourite BritStop  very soon, and feeling fully refreshed, recharged and ready to face the week ahead. When we were faced with having to get rid of Bluebell, it was exactly these weekends that I was most devasted at the prospect of not being able to do anymore. I’m so glad we found our gal Ruby quickly, and so far, she’s ticking all our boxes. 
Until Next Time

Lx

 

 

To Brit Stop, or Not?

Firstly, before I write this post, I need to make it clear that I have no affiliation with Brit Stops, and pay each year like everyone else for our copy of what we call the Brit Stop Bible. This post comes on the back of 5 years of paid membership, and many, many happy stopovers at Brit Stop locations, but mainly after a discussion that Keefy and I had last night, whilst enjoying our latest Brit Stop evening.

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For probably as long as we’ve been members of BritStops, I’ve also been a lurker on many of the Facebook Motorhome and Campervan Discussion pages. Over the last couple of years I’ve noticed more and more people on these pages asking “Is Britstops worth it?”- and watched with interest people sharing their different opinions before sometimes feeling somewhat disappointed in people’s responses. Now don’t get me wrong, I know everyone is entitled to their own opinion, and actually isn’t that what makes the world wide web a wonderful place to be part of- so please don’t think that this post is intended to suggest that anyone who doesn’t agree with my opinion is wrong. Far from it. But last night, Keith and I experienced such a wonderful evening, that only came about because of our membership into Britstops, it really highlighted to me why we will always choose to be a member. So I thought I would share it.

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Earlier this week, faced with a pretty long week at work, we decided we would nip out in Ruby the camper van on Saturday night for a change of scenery. We faced two choices- a BritStop location or a quiet CL site somewhere. It coincided with our brand new edition of the 2017 BritStop bible arriving, so after a loooooong day teaching on Tuesday, we sat down together for a leaf through to see if anywhere grabbed our fancy. So much these days is web based and online, and so we LOVE the fact that we can sit and flick through a proper book, page by page to see the locations available. This also is rather handy when you’re out and about on a tour and you need to change your plans but you don’t have any internet, like we did here. BritStops: 1 / other online database of pub stops: 0

You’ve got a user-friendly map page so you can see whats available in each area. In the case of us nipping away for a night we tend to say an hour’s journey from home- and we are lucky that this perimeter gives us lots of choice (although I’m sad that some of our favourites on the North Norfolk Coast are gone this year!) What we like about the BritStops book is that each place has a little write up from the owner describing their place. This really helps us to decide what we are in the mood for.

Our personal favourite types of stop are the farm shops and vineyards, of which there are loads in this years edition. I just love cooking, so to be able to buy fresh produce and cook it for our dinner that night is perfect. That or buying  a local wine/beer and drinking it that night on site, knowing you’ve experienced a local taste, local flavour and given something back to the owner in return for a free night’s stopover is just brilliant- and very, very similar to France Passion, which is what Britstops is based upon. The misconception between people who don’t rave about BritStops seems to be that its only pubs and in theory most pubs will let you stay overnight. There are loads of pubs included. But it’s not only pubs, and for that we think it’s worth the £27.50 membership alone.

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Sunrise amongst the vineyards- the morning after an amazing meal and wine tasting from an English vineyard in 2014.

We stumbled across this inviting advert from BritStop no. 232/2017’s host.

“Completely refurbished in May 2013, this characterful 16th Century pub still offers traditional games. Next to a farm that supplies us with local produce. (Landlord) doesn’t work from a menu, but is more than happy to make most dishes if he has the ingredients in!”

This sounded an unusual, quirky place, and so we wasted no time in giving them a call on the number provided, to book in for Saturday night. After a bit of a chat to the landlord, he asked us what we fancied to eat, gave us a few options and after asking whether we were fish, veggie or meat eaters he said leave it with me, I’ll see you Saturday! I’m not going to lie, we were quite excited! This seemed a novel approach to hospitality and a quick look on trip adviser soon told us people were raving about this place, although we were slightly anxious that we may have signed ourselves up to a private dining experience and therefore may need to remortgage the house on our return as we forgot to check the price!

The rest of the week went in a blur with work, but Saturday soon dawned and it was time to set off on our mini break. We checked the postcode and directions and used the handy key to see if we needed water, would have electric etc. Everything about the book is convenient and you can just tell it has been lovingly assembled by keen motorhomes, Steve and Mandy, who started BritStops in 2011. Since then they have increased the number of stops from 75 to 761!

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Over 700 new stopovers added since 2011. Obviously doing something right!

We stopped for a lovely walk at nearby Clare Country Park- which we found by using our iFootpath app, something we always do when we are heading to a new town/area because we are chasing a BritStop location, and early evening rolled into the car park of BritStop #232, just as the landlord was returning from a food shop. He opened up at 5:45pm and by 6:00pm we were sat at the bar having his last bottle of home brew bitter and having a nice little chat. The home-brew by the way was delicious. Probably just as well he only had the one bottle left though, at 5.5% I think we could have been in for a dangerous night otherwise!

Conversation soon got onto food, and Tony’s enthusiasm and passion for cooking immediately shone through. I can’t ever remember having such a passionate landlord/chef talk through a menu with us like we experienced here, and that includes my 30th where K took me for a Michelin taster menu at Morston Hall. He gave us options that included a curry platter, sausage and mash, linguine or home battered haddock and chips. After ten minutes of umming and ahhing and numerous changes, we decided on curry- Keith opting for a fish curry and me going for a section that included chicken and cauliflower balti, beef tikka, chickpea and sweet potato, homemade naan, basmati rice, popadoms, homemade ago chutney- the list went on. We asked if he could knock up a starter and he asked us if Garlic mushrooms and dough balls sounded ok. It sounded more like perfect.

We spent some time chatting to a friendly local and before we knew it the food was served. Huge portions, piping hot, absolutely gorgeous flavours. We were officially in food heaven. We were asked what we fancied as background music, we had a roaring log fire next to us, and Jazz the pampered pooch was enjoying fist fulls of home cooked ham!

As the evening went on, a couple more tables came in, and we witnessed the same passion and enthusiasm, enabling them to eat exactly what they fancied. It was time to ask for the bill and I’d got my credit card at the ready, with a slight sweat, and not just cos of the curry! You can perhaps imagine my shock when the bill read “Drinks: £21 (well we had had a long walk, and I didn’t have to drive!)… Food…….£28”. £28?! That’s surely per person I whispered to Keith. It wasn’t. £14 each for a completely home cooked to our specific taste meal. I’m not even sure I could cook it at home for that, and I didn’t have to wash up!

There is no way on earth we would have picked this pub, had it not been for BritStops. It’s in a tiny hamlet, in the depths of Suffolk. A little way off the tourist route. Not within walking distance of anything too interesting (although I’m sure given more time we may be proved wrong on this). If we had looked at google maps and tried to “pick a pub and call it” we just never would have found this place. It’s like trying to find a needle in a haystack. But with the help of BritStops, its taken all this information of where we are welcome and puts it into a user friendly format that doesn’t rely on internet connection – for us living on the Norfolk/Suffolk border we do not take this luxury for granted by the way! Mobile date hasn’t reached our village yet and we are not alone!

We look at our BritStop nights away not, as their tag line suggest, as Free Stopovers, but more like finding the real British gems and giving something back to off the beaten track hosts allowing us to spend the night there. Whether its a haggis pizza and a pint of home-brewed ale, some homemade cheese, local wine, or just old fashioned Great British service in a lonely village somewhere, we feel proud to be members and thank Steve and Mandy for their hard work in keeping the book up to date with regular monthly update emails.

It’s worth mentioning that the agreement of those listed in the BritStop guide does state that there is absolutely no obligation to buy anything, you just have to go and introduce yourself etc. However, for us, we couldn’t even entertain this as a thought – if someone is being kind enough to let you stay on their property the least we can do is have a few drinks and a meal. Pubs and small business’ are closing down left right and centre with the increase of larger shops’ and chain pubs- if we can’t help by spending twenty quid or so in their establishment then I’d rather go and stay in a lay-by somewhere. Or stay at home.

Some pictures below of our favourite all time stopovers.

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So there you go, there’s my two – pennies worth on whether BritStops is worth the £27.50 annual fee.

If you are a member and are in/near to Suffolk and like your food – you NEED to pay #232 a visit. I promise you, you won’t visit anywhere else like it. Keep an eye on the website- he is doing themed food nights – with Italian night, Greek night, Curry night, and even a beer taster night- where you get 5 courses each matched with a different beer.

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Until Next Time,

Lx

 

 

 

 

Adventures in Japan, Part 5; Takayama and Matsumoto

 
Our journey from Kyoto to Takayama began on the 09:33 Bullet train from Kyoto to Nagoya, where we then changed onto the Express Train Hida 7, from Nagoya to Takayama. The journey on this latter train was spectacular in places, as the train weaved its way from city up into the mountains, known as the Japanese Alps. Takayama was a smaller more traditional town, situated high in the Alps, with splendid views of the snow capped peaks from our hotel, The Hida Hotel Plaza. Sadly, a lady on our tour tripped and broke her wrist in two places whilst getting off the train, but unlike if you were to suffer an injury like that in our country, she was back at the hotel, in a plaster cast and sling by 5:30pm! 

We had a guided walking tour of Takayama that afternoon, taking in Jinya Old House, a Historical Government House, which was very interesting and also the beautiful Kamisannomachi Street. 

 

Jinya Old House, Takayama

 

Kamisannomachi Street, Takayama 

 The town is absolutely beautiful. It grew up as the home of carpenters employed to build temples and palaces, and woodwork is still very much a part of its day to day life- many of the shops selling hand crafted wooden souvenirs. We bought some lovely wooden lacquered rice bowls. We also enjoyed a Green Tea flavoured Mr Whippy. There are also lots of Sake breweries in Takayama, recognisable by the large balls hanging over the front door. We bought some local sake to bring home. 

Green Tea Mr Whippy

After a lovely stroll we returned to the Hotel for a traditional Onsen, a Japanese Bath. We were lucky in that our hotel had its own rooftop Onsen. Keith tells me that the Onsen is very similar to a German Sauna. You have to strip off, have a good wash before you go in and then have a nice relax in the natural spring water. I enjoyed watching the sun setting behind the Alps. Sorry no pics, for obvious reasons! 

After a short bath we hit the town again in search for our tea, Hida Beef, a local speciality to the area. Sadly, we hadn’t realised, Takayama is very much a day trip town- the street we’d visited earlier that was packed was now all shut, shutters closed and no sign of life whatsoever. The restaurants that were open elsewhere, many of them didn’t have English menus, and we got turned away from a handful of restaurants just, we are assuming, because we weren’t Japanese. We ended up going in a sake bar and having a light night of Hida beef, which was delicious, but possibly a touch over priced for the size of the dish. Never mind! 

Takayama by night

 I decided I was going to try a starlit late night bath on return to the hotel, so donned the traditional Japanese Pyjamas supplied by the hotel and made my way upstairs. It was a very relaxing experience and I loved being under the canopy of the stars. 

Next morning and we had a guided walk through Takayama’s open air market, situated on the river side and full of local food, souvenirs, interesting veg, you name it.

Takayama’s open air market

 We made our way to the Float museum afterwards, home to Takayama’s national floats, which come out twice a year to celebrate the harvest. They were HUGE! Flamboyant and very gold, the intricate carving and designs were amazing. To give you a sense of size- the figures next to the floats were adult sized. Each float is pulled by around 6-8 men. Incredible! 

Takayama Yatai Kaikan (Float Museum)

 We had one final walk around the streets of Takayama before a Hida Beef burger for lunch, and then met the rest of our group for the next leg of our journey, to Matsumoto via Hida Holk Village. 

Food and Drink in Takayama plus Japanese PJs!

 

Takayama

 We took the coach the short distance to Hida Folk village, which is home to around 30 traditional Japanese farm houses, many of which are open to visit. There is also a traditional of hand made crafts here and we visited the wood carver, who we watched hand carving figurines from one single block of wood, with one blade. It was fascinating to watch, and we bought a hand carved dragon as a souvenir. 

Hida Folk village

Hida Folk Village

 

 We rejoined the coach after our visit here and had a relaxing journey to Matsumoto. We ventured into town for our meal, but  far from the larger cities meant that we were struggling to find anywhere that welcomed us. Just as we were having a discussion as to whether we should admit defeat and return for dinner at the hotel, we bumped into a lovely American man Steve and his fabulous Japanese wife, Hisae. They live in San Fransisco and had caught sight of Keith’s San Fransisco T shirt he was wearing I think. They recommended a noodle bar, which we followed them into, then when we sat down we realised the menu was completely in Japanese- no pictures or anything! We were just deciding whether to leg it or be brave and pick something randomly, Steve came over and invited us to join them- Hisae would translate the menu for us.  What superstars! We had a wonderful meal, of curry, noodles and tempura for Keith, a couple of beers then tagged onto them for an evening visit to Matsumoto castle, which we were due to visit tomorrow with the group, however it had been specially illuminated for the evening. It was breathtakingly beautiful. We enjoyed Steve and Hisae’s company and felt eternally grateful that they had rescued our evening- so insisted we took them for a couple of sake nightcap. What a fab evening. We hope to meet up with Steve and Hisae sometime again in the future. 

 

Matsumoto meal

 

Matsumoto castle by night (iPhone pics as didn’t have proper camera that night!)

 

 Next morning and I’d be lying if I said we weren’t hungover! 😳 We went as a group to Matsumoto Castle, which even despite seeing it illuminated the previous night still was beautiful. I really loved it there.  

Matsumoto castle

We had the chance to go inside and up the top floor, which offered nice views over Matsumoto, although the stairs to get up there were VERY STEEP! There was also an interesting museum to explore too. All in all, despite feeling rough! we had a great visit. 

Museum

 

Next stop, Mt Fuji! 

Until next time 

Lx