You know something exciting is happening when you have to set your alarm on holiday for 06:15! Today was one of those days. We were boarding the famous Rocky Mountaineer- a wonderful train journey that would take us all the way from Jasper to Vancouver, through the Rocky Mountains. We were travelling in Silver Leaf- however some of our group had upgraded to Gold Leaf. The difference was that in Gold Leaf you had a double decker observation car and lunch sittings in the dining car. In silver we had a glass roof and meals brought to our seat.
On arrival at Jasper station there was an abundance of red carpets and we all got a royal welcome! Excitement levels were through the roof and it was only 07:45!
We were welcomed on board enthusiastically by our hosts, Shay, Courtney and Mieka. As the train rolled out of the station, we all toasted a wonderful journey ahead and the staff on the station waved flags as we departed! It was really special!
It wasn’t long before the scenery became dramatic, and we were told to keep our eyes peeled for bears. Some on our train spotted one very soon but we were on the wrong side!
Breakfast, and mid morning snacks were served as we rolled through the Rockys. It was fabulous. The Clouds were in wonderfully dramatic formations, and we couldn’t stop staring at the views and looking out for bears!
Soon it was lunch time; we opted for the Lamb curry which was delicious washed down with some local red wine.
The rest of the day was spent admiring the dramatic scenery, listening to the wonderful and highly entertaining commentary from our host team and basically being treated like royalty!
Around 5pm, we rolled into Kamloops for our overnight stay. This section was completely under the organisation of The Rocky Moountaineer team, rather than GRJ and as such those in Gold Leaf went to a different hotel to us. I’ve never seen anything so meticulously organised- each train coach had its own motor coach lined up on the station, in order, all our luggage was already in our rooms- it was amazing!
Our evening in Kamloops consisted of more food and drink of course. Not because we were hungry, we just can’t help wanting to try all the local food and drink. We are noticing that each place we visit has a whole load of local lagers and ales to try, and even some gin.
There was a free concert in the park so we wandered down for a while to listen before having some beers and food in The Noble Pig. I had the Texas Poutine which had pulled pork on top of a pile of chips and cheese (healthy eh?!) and Keith had a local chorizo pizza, both of which were absolutely fabulous.
An early night followed as it was another 06:00 alarm!
Monday:
Day two aboard The Rocky Mountaineer! By 07:30 we were back on board and toasting our imminent departure from Kamloops.
They hadn’t even served breakfast before our first Bald Eagle sighting, and for the next three hours, we saw dozens of them!
In nests and soaring above- they were absolutely incredible to watch! Majestic and glorious – we couldn’t believe our eyes. We also saw a number of Ospreys and Big Horn Sheep. And then- we got our Bear sighting! I literally was jumping up and down in delight! We saw a mother and her cub and it was just wonderful!
The scenery today was even more dramatic as we followed the Thomson and then Fraser river. We wound our way through the desert and then the rainforest and we couldn’t believe that the change in environment and landscape that we were witnessing in a relatively short distance.
Lunch was braised short ribs which melted in our mouth. The food and hospitality was incredible- goodness knows what was happening in Gold Leaf as Silver was spectacular!
Around 5pm we rolled into Vancouver. We were sad to be saying bye to the team on board, they had made the trip incredible. It had felt like a once in a lifetime journey and I’d recommend it in a heart beat.
Our evening was spent at leisure in Vancouver which I’ll cover on the next instalment.
Today’s journey on the coach would take us from Banff to Jasper, along one of the top 10 scenic roads in the world, the Icefield Parkway.
We left the hotel at 09:20 and waved goodbye to Banff, which had completely stole our hearts. Our first stop of the day was Peyto Lake- a glacial lake at the highest point of the Icefield Parkway.
Again, the glacial rock flour gives the lake a wonderful turquoise colour, and the viewpoint is higher than the lake, which means you’re looking down onto the lake with huge mountains as a backdrop.
It’s utterly breathtaking and Keith even goes as far as saying it’s his favourite one so far.
After this we continued along the Icefield Parkway, marvelling at the scenery and on the constant lookout for bears and eagles!
Having a driver makes it very relaxing.
We stopped for lunch before continuing on to the Athabasca Glacier for our next stop. The majority of the group had taken the opportunity to book onto the SnoCoach tour. The Sno Coach is a huge vehicle designed to drive onto the glacier. The tyres are Huge and cost €4000 each! It’s a bumpy but exciting ride down to the glacier but accompanied by entertaining and lively guides- offering plenty of interesting commentary to distract us that we are bumping along!
Once on the glacier we had around 30 minutes to walk on the glacier itself! Wow this was absolutely FANTASTIC! What an opportunity!
We got hundreds of pictures and despite it being busy, found an area to ourselves to take it all in. It was absolutely ASTOUNDING to think that underneath our feet was enough ice to cover the Eiffel Tower. Above our heads, the large ridges that towered above us would have been full of ice just 100 years ago. It really brings it home to us how our planet is getting warmer. It’s been suggested that in around 50 years this entire glacier will be gone which is staggering.
Our visit was tremendous and something which I’ll never forget.
Our next stop was the Athabasca Falls, which was a scenic spot to take some photos before heading into Jasper to find our hotel.
Today had been epic and to be honest I’d gotten quite tired! After a quick happy hour cocktail, I could have been convinced to stay local for dinner, but luckily, Keefy convinced me otherwise so we made the 15 minute walk into town.
Dinner was at the Inn Grill which was right by our hotel, The Chateau Jasper, and we opted for steak and ribs which were lovely.
We walked it off into town, and saw our train for tomorrow, the mighty Rocky Mountaineer. We were able to get a number of photos before having a beer at Jasper Brewing Company, at which point the wall of tiredness hit me so we made our way back.
Our first morning in Banff began at the rather early time of 04:00! Blasted Jet Lag! Determined to make the most of our time here, we decided after a coffee and shower to make the most of our early morning by going for a hike to acclimatise to our new surroundings.
We took a walk down the high street, which was empty at this hour meaning we could get all the pictures we could possibly wish for in the beautiful morning light.
We took the Bow River Trail down to Bow Falls, a very well maintained and flat path which followed the Bow River.
Along this we discussed what the correct procedure would be if we ran into a bear! Then mused on how different our pre breakfast walk chat was to when we are at home!
The scenery was just simply breathtaking and I’m going to let the pics show you as I still can’t quite find the right words!
We arrived back at the hotel ready for breakfast at 07:30- feeling good that we had managed a 2 mile walk but also completely in awe of the scenery here.
After breakfast our group met in the foyer ready to start our days excursions. First up was the Banff Gondola- a cable car which took us up to the peak of Sulpher Mountain. We were rewarded with phenomenal views of Banff and beyond. We had an hour on the peak so once we’d taken all the pictures we took the boardwalk up to the weather station.
Our next stop was the iconic Lake Louise. This was simply incredible. The unusual blue and green colour of the water is formed by eroded rock “flour”, eroded by the glacier. The flour then settles in the base of the lake which gives it the unusual but absolutely mystical colour.
We had a couple of hours here so grabbed a sandwich and beer, before walking round the base of the lake. It was simply awesome.
Next up, we carried along the Highway 1 west to Yoho National Park, where we had a 30 minute stop at the Emerald Lake. Some of the members of our group watched a wild bald headed eagle circle above – we missed it as we needed the loo!
A question arose as to why Lake Louise was named that and not Emerald Lake. It turns out the reason is that actually it’s original name was that. But then during the Victorian Era, the increase in tourism meant that there were lots of Emerald Lakes so it was renamed Louise in honour of Queen Victoria’s daughter.
Our final stop of the day was what we fondly called a ‘Ted Special’. Ted is our coach driver and local guide and he made a suggested photo stop at the National Bridge in Yoho National Park.
This extremely scenic location is unusual because it used to be a waterfall where the water flowed over and dropped. Over time, the glacial water has eroded through underneath and as such has opened up a chasm. It’s beautiful and atmospheric and with the mountainous backdrop was a worthy photo stop.
On the journey back to Banff, Keith and I, along with a couple of other ladies in our group saw two black bears in the distance! Too quick for pics but amazing nonetheless!!
We arrived back to the hotel around 5:30pm – what an incredible first day we’d had! It was now free time, so Keith and I grabbed our swimwear before jumping on the free local us up to Banff Upper Springs. This was the site of the first hot springs in Canada and as such the tourism popped up around it. Now it’s a smallish swimming pool filled with natural mineral water at a temperature of 39 degrees c. The views over mountains were wonderful and it was a nice way to contemplate what we’d seen that day.
After a quick freshen up and change at the hotel we went out in search of dinner and some beers. We found the Elk Bar with its rooftop patio and enjoyed some local beers and cider along with the National Canadian dish of Poutine – a chips and gravy with cheese dish – accompanied by elk tacos!
Absolutely delicious!
We managed one final beer at the Banff Avenue Brewing Co- also with a nice outdoor patio with views over the high street.
We couldn’t believe we’d been up since 4am and made it to 11pm. We’d had a phenomenal first day!!
Another year, and another exciting Great Rail Journeys trip for us. These trip are addictive- the minute we land from one, we can’t stop ourselves obsessively flicking through the next years brochure, pausing to number crunch- can we afford it? Before taking the plunge and booking it, taking advantage of GRJ’s low deposits. The longer we can pay chunks of the balance off over, the better.
After months and months of hard saving, firstly for the trip itself and then enough spending money for us to do everything that we want whilst in the trip, the time finally came for us to pack our bags, wrap up all our work affairs and turn that out of office on. Canada and Alaska – we are on our way.
When we booked our airport parking and hotel, we realised the parking began at 00.30 so we decided to use this as an opportunity for a pre holiday London day. Coincidentally at the same time, Keith discovered a Stanley Kubrick exhibition that was on, and as a huge film fan, wasted no time in booking our tickets.
Goodbyes were said to Jazz the dog, and Mum who has kindly moved into our house whilst we are away to dog sit, and by 07:30 Wednesday, we were on our way.
Check in at London Heathrow’s Renaissance Hotel was quick and easy. Parking is on site and we take our keys so no worries about someone else driving Ruby. And a bonus was that despite arriving at 10:15, our room was already ready, so we dumped our cases, made use of the in room safe and grabbed the free public bus to Heathrow Bus station where we jumped on the next Piccadilly line train to South Kensington.
No trip to Heathrow for us is complete without a beer at The Hoop and Toy, South Kensington followed by a meal at the wonderful Pierino’s.
We then had a brisk half an hour walk off of the carbs to London Design Museum, home to the Stanley Kubrick exhibition this summer.
Keith was bouncing off the walls. I must admit, I’ve only seen 3 of his films; Barry Lyndon, Eyes Wide Shut and Full Metal Jacket- all of which I enjoyed. From the moment we stepped inside we were treated to an enormous collection of Stanley Kubrick’s personal items on display including an Oscar, his editing desk and lots of original film costumes, including Laurence Olivier’s costume in Spartacus, the Venetian Masks from Eyes Wide Shut and most notably, the creepy twins dresses from The Shining.
After the exhibition, Keith was quite emotional – to say he (and I) enjoyed it was an understatement and if you have any interest in Kubrick films I highly recommend a visit.
We made our way to Chinatown for some dim-sung before a beer on the Thames at The Tattishall Castle boat pub before making our way back to the hotel at Heathrow. A cracking day in London.
Thursday
For once, we didn’t have to set our alarms at an antisocial time! Our Air Canada flight departures at 13:05 so our check in time was 10 ish.
Before that, we had the exciting meet and greet with our Great Rail Journeys tour manager. As with all their tours, throughout our holiday we will have the company of 30 or so travelling companions, led by one of their tour managers, who we meet in Heathrow and stays with us throughout the trip- his job is to guide us, help us get the absolute maximum from our trip, and hold our hand throughout.
After a quick chat with Alex Green, our TM, we checked in our baggage and headed through security with a couple of hours to enjoy Heathrow’s Terminal 2.
Our Air Canada flight was on time, and really a rather pleasant 8.5 hour flight on their Dreamliner before touchdown at Calgary, Canada at around 14:45 local time. We flew right over Greenland and got an amazing view of the mountains.
Calgary is currently hosting its Stampede, famous fortnight of events such as rodeos and horse cart racing. As such, the captain treated us to a massive “Yeee haaaa” just before landing, and the airport is full of people in cowboy hats and boots. Before we’d got out of the airport Keith had made friends with the locals!
Sadly we were not staying in Calgary to witness Stampede events, our coach transfer to Banff awaited. The trip took around 90 minutes and it didn’t take long for the open fields to turn into ski slopes, toboggan runs and then into huge dramatic, snow capped mountains.
Our hotel, The Banff Ptarmigan Inn, was situated right on the Main Street so after a quick check in, we jumped into the shower, changed and went straight out again. Evenings are free time away from the group- a perfect mix of having a tour group but having alone time too.
Despite being up for almost 20 hours, we were a little tired but wanted to make it to 9.30pm in an effort to beat the jet lag. We enjoyed our first Canadian lager- Kokanee lager- in the hotel bar, before taking a wander down the high street to find a suitable dinner place.
Banff is full of restaurants of all different cuisines and gift shops. The buildings are cute wooden chalets and the backdrop is stunning mountains. We were lucky, the sky was a picture perfect blue sky.
We opted for burgers at Eddie’s Burger bar- a long standing burger joint which is very popular and as such we waited across the road at The Rose and Crown Tavern whilst a table became available. This was the perfect time to sample my first Canadian Gin – distilled across the road, The Park Gin was nice and smooth. Keith had a Keith lager!
We enjoyed our “ Rocky Mountain burger” – an elk patty with jack cheese and onions etc- it was gorgeous and had a great chat with the really friendly bar men. Clearly they love where they live and work, and although we’ve only been here for a couple of hours, we can wholeheartedly see why.
We made it until 9:30pm – before caving in and hitting the sack. Tomorrow we’ve got a full days itinerary- let’s see what time we wake up!
It may only have been two weeks since our last adventure, but it’s been a fortnight of work, work and more work stress! Exam season is upon us and between Keith and I we’ve had nearly 60 students taking grade exams in this fortnight alone.
Luckily, we’d got a weekend of escapism to look forward to, celebrating Father’s Day with dad and Jenny – double van date so to speak. Our original location was supposed to be Ferry Meadows in Peterborough, however the recent bad weather resulted in a phone call from them on Thursday advising that they’d had to shut as they’d flooded. That left us precisely 24 hours to find somewhere else that accommodate not one but two vans.
Luckily Dad managed to get us on at Kelling Heath, Norfolk. This pleased me as despite recent bad weather, the coming weekend looked to be forecasted to be nice – and there is no place I’d rather be than or the seaside.
Kelling Heath has been on our list of sites to visit for a while. It didn’t disappoint- the showers were phenomenal, and the site layout user friendly and beautifully landscaped. The bar area and restaurant looked appealing, there was n outside pool should we feel brave, and we were on the train line to Sheringham (and Holt). It was slightly pricier than other sites we stay at but facility’s being so good meant we had no issue paying this.
Friday night was spent with a few drinks, and putting the world to rights. We took a wander to the on site bar (dog friendly) and I sampled some local gin.
Saturday morning dawned sunny and so we wasted no time, bacon rolls first then a wander to reception to buy tickets for the train. As it was Father’s Day, they’d ramped the prices up somewhat, it we didn’t mind paying £20 pp as it’s a heritage line, and someone’s got to fund it. We then realised the next train to Sheringham was imminent so legged it the half a mile down to the station arriving just in the nick of time for the scheduled time of arrival. Annoyingly, the timetable was running over half an hour latest actually we needn’t have rushed! Oh well! The views from the small request stop station were glorious and fields of Poppy’s surrounding us were appropriate not to mention beautiful, considering we were on the Poppy Line.
Eventually our train arrived and we enjoyed the short journey to nearby Sheringham.
We had a couple of ciders overlooking the sea before fish and chips and of course this summer no trip to Sheringham is complete without a look at the newly formed and rather large sinkhole on the highstreet!
After a bit of a charity shop browse, we headed back to the station to make use of our roamer tickets. We were hoping to get to Wells but unfortunately the train station and poppy line were still in chaos. No one seemed to think that we’d be able to get back from wells to Kelling Heath, I’m still not sure why, it was all very confusing, but the long and short of it meant that we ended up paying £20 pp (£80 in total!) for a 6 mile return trip to Sheringham! Ouch. Having said that we enjoying using the heritage train line – it just needed a bit of fine tuning perhaps.
Saturday evening’s tea was burgers and salad which we cooked on Dad and Jenny’s cadac – a first for us.
Sunday arrived and we decided to make the most of the early departure time of 10am by getting up and away, and driving down the road to Weybourne beach car park for breakfast. We were treated to a full English which went well before a little leg stretch on the beach.
Soon the weather turned, so we bid farewell to Dad and Jenny before heading home.
After a wonderful stay at Corfe Castle, it was time to move on to our final location on this trip – Charmouth. We took a small detour to go to the back at Studland Bay, where we got the paddleboard out and had a lark around for an hour or so – the sea was like a mill pond and I even managed to get on my feet!
The journey to Charmouth took a couple of hours, but we did a stop at Morrison’s to replenish Ruby’s cupboards. The forecast was looking excellent so we decided to stock up for two more bbqs. I don’t think we’ve ever had so many bbqs by this point of the year – it’s been a fab year of weather on our trips so far.
On arrival at Charmouth C&CC we were shown to our pitch- which was humongous. We set our stall out quickly, and decided to enjoy the sunshine with a chill outside Ruby for the remainder of the day.
Location wise, getting to Charmouth wasn’t as simple as we’d hoped it would be, without using Ruby that is. There were no bus routes and we were about 5 miles downhill (meaning 5 miles uphill on our return) to cycle. We decided to make use of the walking route down to Charmouth – which was about a 3 hour routebut looked quite challenging. That could wait til tomorrow, so after showers in the brand new and rather impressive shower block, which the wardens are extremely proud of, we sparked up the barbie and enjoyed our evening on site.
Saturday dawned sunnier than we could have hoped for. A beach day was definitely on the cards, so we packed a picnic and some drinks, and made our way on the campsite route down to Charmouth. It was mainly downhill, following quiet country lanes, before going onto a footpath which lead over lush grassy paddocks all the way down into Charmouth.
Charmouth is a small but rather traditional seaside resort. The beach area is pretty and has a large car park and cafe, but not much else- not that we required anything else. We spent a good hour or so dozing on the beach and enjoying our picnic -the area on the left of the beach huts is dog friendly.
By this point we felt certain that we wouldn’t walk back – it was mainly up hill – so we decided to carry on along the beach for a couple of miles or so to get to Lyme Regis. The walk from Charmouth to Lyme Regis along the beach needs to be timed with care- don’t get caught out with the tides.
This stretch of beach is extremely popular with fossil hunters – young and old, we were accompanied by the sounds of special hammers tapping the rocks as we watched -everyone eager to find some fossils.
Lyme Regis was absolutely beautiful. I’m so glad we made the effort to carry on. Still traditional but larger in size – we passed the museum and wandered along the promenade, stopping for some ice cream – purbeck ice cream is Devine!
We wandered around the harbour, soaking in the atmosphere and the sunshine, before stopping at the fishmongers for some treats for our final night bbq and having a cheeky beer on one of the beach front beer gardens. Luckily we managed to source a taxi to take us back to Ruby else it would have been a long walk home – we’d clocked up 7 miles by now. But we’d loved it!
Our bbq tonight was amazing – monkfish and chorizo kebabs, halloumi kebabs and sea bass. A wonderful way to close our tour of Dorset. We’d had a blast, eaten and drank some wonderful local food, and enjoyed some fantastic walks.
I think we will be back here again sometime that’s for sure.
Ruby the VW Campervan is parked up on a fabulous wooded glade on the outskirts of Corfe Castle, Dorset.
We’re on the Camping and Caravan Club site and our first impressions were great. The pitches are spacious and not on top of each other. It’s quiet despite being full and the terracing means our pitch has a view of the rolling Purbeck Hills. As we are checking in, Keith’s already sourced and brought the local Purbeck ice cream to sample – which by the way is delicious! And despite a bit of drizzle which soon passed, we are able to sit outside in the evening sunshine which was on our pitch til gone 8pm.
Dinner was chicken fajitas on the outside grill and washed down with a couple of gins.
The weather was so lovely (and forecasted to be wet tomorrow) so Keith suggested an after dinner walk into the village – he’s been to Corfe Castle before and was keen to show me! The walk from the campsite is off road and about 15 mins / 3/4 mile. It passes fields of wheat and nearly immediately on leaving the campsite you get your first view of the castle in the distance. It’s wonderful!
First view of Corfe Castle from the footpath from site
As we get closer, the castle ruins become more and more impressive. I immediately see why Keith’s been wanting to return for the last 10 years that I’ve know him.
As the National Trust site is closed (it’s almost 7pm by this point), we opt for a beer in the beer garden of the Greyhound which has the most impressive beer garden view in England.
Sadly the service was not so impressive so we only stayed for one, but I had the Purbeck cider which was delicious. We walked the high street and stumbled into the Fox for one more – another great view from the beer garden and this time a much friendlier welcome.
We’d loved our evening visit to the village and walked back to Ruby feeling excited about our visit to the grounds tomorrow.
Wednesday dawned wet and windy. We couldn’t complain, the weather had been fab so far. Actually it was almost a relief, as we could have a massive lay in, lazy morning and late brunch without feeling guilty that we should be out enjoying the weather. Keith made me a delicious full English and I did some writing for the blog and read.
At 3pm it stopped raining so we donned our wet gear and headed back into the village to visit the National Trust maintained “Corfe Castle”.
The Keep would have been the tallest in England at the time – it’s position on the Purbeck Hills dominates the skyline and would have been a great place to keep an eye on the surrounding hills. These days the castle is in ruins however you get a sense of its enormous height with various walls inside the main keep that still stand high and straight; others less so!
Although the rain had now stopped, visibility was low so we vowed to perhaps pop in again tomorrow if the weather was better. The joys of having NT membership.
We walked back to Ruby surprised that despite our late start we’d still managed to walk 3.75 miles. Dinner was chilli and nachos which was delicious.
Thursday arrived and what a difference a day makes with the weather. It was glorious – perfect for a trip to the seaside.
We wasted no time and got up and had breakfast by 9am. This is early for us!
We were due to catch the 10:25 bus from Corfe Castle so we’re on a go fast mission getting most of the jobs gone like making a pack up etc. As it happened we arrived with oodles of time but we spent it admiring the traditional English stone houses and taking the obligatory bus stop selfie. We caught the number 40 Purbeck Breeze bus operated by More which picked us up from outside the Morton’s House Hotel. The fare was £4.20 each single or £6.40 return. We got single as we were getting the train back later.
Neither of us had been to Swanage before, and I know that the weather helped hugely, but – it was gorgeous. Actually we could have been in Greece. The water was so clear, with little boats bopping up and down. A small amusement arcade, a pier, lovely stretches of beach (a dog friendly one about a mile down the road ), appealing al fresco bars/ restaurants and of course, fish and chip shops.
We intended to do a walk along the coastal path but got drawn into the first bar we saw by the appealing looking chair and table in prime position for the best view.
This turned into two, then another bar with a lovely table made three.. you can probably guess, we didn’t get up on the cliffs – we stayed in Swanage.
We had fish and chips from the fish Plaice (gorgeous) before walking the entire length of the promenade – this is when we found the dog friendly section.
An absolutely cracking day.
When it was time to go back to the site, we stocked up on some grocery essentials before boarding the 16:40 steam train to Corfe Castle (£8pp £1dog)
What a delightful way to return to Corfe Castle, isn’t there just something about the choo choo sound and the chug chug sounds of the wheels pulling. The scenery was lovely- but it was only 20 minutes long – the train continued elsewhere.
We explored the pretty and historical station before returning to our campsite, surprised that we’d still walked 5 miles despite having an unintended pub crawl.
Ruby the VW Campervan is parked up in the heart of the glorious New Forest National Park having a rest after a helluva week! She’s transported us across Norfolk for hours of lessons, to Bedford for a massive gig, into Suffolk and Norwich for smaller gigs and to school on a Friday for a series of music concerts we’ve organised. That’s just this week!
Because of our music festival in school we couldn’t get away until lunchtime on Friday and we of course got caught up on the M25 which was basically a rolling car park resulting in what should have been a 3.5 hour journey turning into 6 hours. By the time we rolled into the Caravan and Motorhome New Forest Centenary site, we were bushed.
After a quick and friendly check in we were advised to drive round and pick our spot- it would be obvious which ones were free as anyone who wasn’t parked up and on a day trip would have left a pitch marker. Behind us we’re 4 other vans chomping at the bit to check in and grab their spots, and I must admit we were rather chuffed with the pitch in Typhoon that we pulled into. It overlooked the wildlife area and was lovely and private. I left Keith to get plugged in and start setting up whilst I walked back to reception to advise them of our pitch number as requested, at which point the wardens told me this pitch wasn’t available – I rang Keith to double check the number and that there wasn’t a pitch marker or something. Nope absolutely nothing. The chap had gone out and left nothing. Feeling fractious, I told him we were going to have to move, which baring in mind he’d already got the wind break up and the chair turned, went down like a lead balloon. This mood dipped even more as we then spent 15 minutes driving round trying to find the one remaining blue peg pitch on a 200+ pitch site- the poor wardens were desperate to tell us which ones were free but those who had come in behind us had yet to tell the reception where they had parked. We of course ended up on the worse pitch of the site crammed in on the corner with a caravan less than really close to the corner of our unit. By this point we were frazzled and in a pretty bad mood. £35 a night to be crammed on a corner for 4 nights. We cracked on with our set up, and managed to hash together a fish risotto for dinner. The warden came to see if we were ok, severely apologetic- I managed to contain my mood and so did Keith, it wasn’t their fault. The warden had come to tell us that the person on our “original pitch” was only there one night so we were very welcome to move tomorrow if we wanted to. We’d sleep on it.
Pitch number 1.
Saturday morning arrived and despite a very heavy sleep we were feeling a bit brighter but still a touch crotchety. This often happens when we are run down – it takes a few days to chill down. Keith suggested a walk up to our “original pitch” to make a decision about moving. We weren’t too keen – we’d set our stall out, and we weren’t sure we fancied the upheaval. As soon as we saw the old pitch vacant, it was a no brainier. We double checked at reception, chucked everything in and half an hour later we were feeling much better. Our new pitch was wonderful and our holiday could now begin.
Pitch number 2. Overlooking the wildlife area
After a lovely hearty full English breakfast using local bacon, sausage and eggs from the on site shop, and a nice chat with the warden who came to check if we were ok and to apologise again, we decided to unload the bikes and take ourselves down to the local village of Bransgore to stock up at the butchers for a bbq.
Bransgore village is nice and is home to 2 pubs, a butchers/country market/ co op and a charity shop. We brought lovely sausages, chicken kebabs, burgers and local cheese, before sampling a drink in each pub and making our way back to Ruby.
The rest of the afternoon was spent snoozing, getting sunburnt and then having a delicious meat fest of a bbq.
Project recharge was well underway.
Sunday
It wasn’t quite as intense sun this morning but we still made the most of the privacy on our pitch, by opening the tailgate around 7am and snoozing with the boot open, listening the bird song- it really was lovely.
After a bacon and egg cob, we made a pack lunch and got the bikes back out. Our route today was mainly off road, we used the minor road to get to Burley where we then picked up route 2, which happened to be a dismantled railway line; the Ringwood to Brockenhurst line. We had a pit stop at Holmsley Railway station cafe, as the name suggests the building and old platform is now turned into a licensed cafe.
We carried on on route 2 to Brockenhurst, stopping for a picnic surrounded by New Forest Ponies, before arriving in Brockenhurst.
Once in Brockenhurst, we quickly found the vineyards- it was time for another refreshment stop- we tried the local red wine which actually was very nice and smooth. The vineyards look like they are fairly young, so the red wasn’t too heavy, but tasty.
There is an impressive farm shop, garden centre and also a certified campsite here too.
Almost next door was the The Filly Inn and seeing as the rest of our route was off road, Keith talked me into a swift pint of Ringwoods Best Bitter. One for the road!
Our return journey retraced our steps back to Wooten Bridge on the old railway track, where we then took a cycle trail through Wooten Coppice Inclosure and then Holmsley Inclosure back to the site. It was a fabulous days cycling and we’re were surprised to see we’d done 20 miles! We’d really experienced some cracking New Forest views and tastes and although a little saddle sore, we’d thoroughly enjoyed ourselves.
Dinner was a simple roast chicken in the Remoska – simple because I’d forgotten the Yorkshire puds and gravy!
Bank Holiday Monday
After another great nights sleep, and a relaxing early morning bird watch from bed (we saw a woodpecker!) we had a simple scrambled eggs on toast for breakfast before tenderly getting on the bikes for today’s explore. We were following the Caravan and Motorhome Club site’s published route – down to the sea at Mudeford Quay. The route was mainly following route 2 and other than a short off road section at Christchurch, mainly followed small and very quiet lanes – we actually saw more cyclists than cars.
Mudeford Quay is a small, quaint and traditional seaside resort. There is a nice stretch of beach and a traditional fishmongers selling fresh fish and shellfish straight from the fishermen. A cosy inn with sea view beer garden and a cafe and small shop, alongside loads of fisherman equipment such as lobster pots etc. It’s very clearly a working Quay and we loved it. Keith immediately likened it to Amity Island in Jaws.
All along the promenade were families dangling crab lines and buckets, and not an amusement arcade in sight.
It was heaving – unsurprising considering it was bank holiday and not raining! Also the first ever Mudeford Quay Seafood Festival (free) was taking place.
On the way we’d been discussing whether to try for a fish bbq tonight- the final decision would be made if we could find some local fresh fish. As soon as we arrived we saw The Fish Stall – our dinner decision was made!
Over a pint we discussed what to buy – everything looked amaaaaazing, but we decided on Swordfish, tuna steaks and smoked haddock along with a portion of samphire. The fishmonger wrapped it in tons of ice, and we went for a wander around the seafood festival which may as well have been called “ Heaven”.
Numerous local seafood wagons lined the park, selling all sorts of tempting offerings such as squid, tuna wraps, whitebait, fish and chips, grilled prawns. Oh I could have had a portion of everything. They were interspersed with local drinks stalls – local lager, local Hampshire English fizz, ale, gin, vodka…. We were both in heaven.
We settled on a portion of salt and pepper squid which was splendid washed down with a local lager (I’ve forgotten the name!) and Hampshire English fizz for me. We also picked up some Cornish smoked Brie and a bottle of local Beachcomber gin. Yum.
I could have stayed there all day, but we had a 7.5 mile bike ride to get back and also a rucksack full of fresh fish. We also needed to stop at Sainsbury’s for a few bits before it shut at 4pm
We sadly waved goodbye to Mudeford Quay, thrilled that we’d stumbled upon this place all thanks to the Caravan and Motorhome club.
Keith managed remarkable well with the heaviest rucksack we’ve ever had. All that fish, a bottle of gin, a bottle of wine, a bottle of tonic, rice, cereal – I could barely lift the rucksack, let alone carry it for 7.5 miles! Jazz helped with sharing his bike basket but he wasn’t too amused!
When we arrived back at Ruby we had gained new neighbours. Unfortunately they’d not read the “camping etiquette” handbook and set their kids swing all literally 4 foot from our van. We discovered that the sound of a swingball game goes down as rather an annoying one when you’re trying to relax and listen to the birds. Nice of them to realise this and put it at the furthest point from their van/ closest to ours.
Despite this we enjoyed a phenomenal fish bbq, washed down with the local gin and a crisp bottle of white, and even when their kids decided to use the back of our pitch as a bike cut through, we could tell we were relaxing as after a discreet “please don’t do that” we were still rather chilled and happy.
Tuesday
Our four nights in the New Forest have come to an end- it was time to move onwards into the depths of Dorset.
We decided to leave the bed assembled and packed away everything on top. Before leaving the new forest I drove us up to the Rufus Stone; the site where King William II received a fatal wound in an hunting accident. Some theories suggest that it wasn’t an accident instead Sir William Tyrell murdered him in a disguised attach. Either way we will never know the truth but the stone is set in a rather picturesque area of the New Forest.
The weather was ok so we decided to have one last adventure before crossing the border into Dorset. We drove to nearby Fritham, to do a 4.5 mile walk which took in some lovely heathland scenery along with a fabulous stretch of forest.
We stopped for lunch on the site of a royal hunting lodge before looping back round and returning to Ruby.
We had a swift half in the 17th century charming thatched Royal Oak before heading off on our merry way to Dorset.
We’d thoroughly enjoyed our time at the C&MC Centenary club site despite it being a bit busy for our liking, and we’re looking forward to part 2 in Corfe Castle.
Ruby the VW campervan is parked up on the banks of the River Thames. We can just about see boats going past through the trees from our pitch at Hurley Riverside Park, and the campsite is filling up, as you would expect for May Day Bank Holiday. We were drawn to Hurley Riverside Park due to its close proximity to the river, and our desire to clock up some more miles on the Thames Path.
The river is just behind us
After a hectic week at work, and a morning gig on Friday, it was lunchtime by the time we had thrown some food, clothes and ourselves into Ruby and escaped. I was frazzled – I’d managed to clock up 42 hours of teaching in 4 hours, 20 hours of admin and a gig. Our mission for the weekend was to eat, sleep and walk!
Hurley is a really pretty little Thames-side village which is home to the campsite and two pubs – one of which is the oldest coaching inn in England. We managed a quick drink outside Ruby before the heavens opened, so we opted for an early dinner – a new recipe for us, Tandoori Sea Bass which was delicious.
By the time we’d eaten it had stopped raining briefly, so we grabbed a brolly and went for a wander along the Thames to the village – just under a mile – and had a drink at The Olde Bell, England’s oldest coaching inn, which is dog friendly in the bar and had a great fireplace.
By the time back we got back to Ruby, the fish and chip van that visits the campsite on Friday evenings was just closing, and so we took advantage of the leftovers at a bargain price as we’d got cold and wet on our walk back from the pub.
Piggies! But they were delicious 😋
Saturday
We enjoyed a fairly lazy morning, and a nice omelette for breakfast before setting off towards Marlow on the Thames Path.
There was a section which was closed off due to a bridge needed repaired, but this diversion on quiet roads took us right past Town Farm butchers. Whoops. We cannot resist local butchers, specially those on a farm!
We stocked up on sausages, lamb kebabs and burgers with the intention of trying for a bbq tomorrow if the weather behaved, before carrying on towards Marlow.
At Marlow there was a great little farmers market where we got to have some local sausage rolls and also some local gin, which was so good I brought a bottle. Thank goodness we bought our large rucksack on the walk! DuPaddlebodring our walk we’d encountered blue skies, rain and even hail so we wore our raincoats allowing for more space in the rucksacks.
We decided to walk back on ourselves along the river up to the bridge that we couldn’t cross, and passed some huge houses right on the edge of the river. It was a truly gorgeous stretch of the Thames. We realised at this point we’d walked 7 miles and the thought of going 7 miles bake was exhausting – plus the weather had turned again, so as there was not any bus routes from Marlow to Hurley riverside park we opted for an Uber which picked us up right on the footpath and delivered us all the way back to Hurley – to the pub, the Rising Sun – a pint had definitely been earned, and we enjoyed the local Marlow brewery Rising sun ale.
Saturday night we enjoyed pulled pork which had been cooking in the slow cooker whilst we had been walking, along with some local gin, before crashing out for an early night.
Sunday
There had been quite a lot of rain in the night but thankfully it dawned quite sunny. The forecast today was brighter earlier so we opted for a lunchtime bbq. Before that, we inflated the Stand Up Paddleboard- one feature of Hurley Riverside Park is it’s on site slipway into the Thames. We had an hour or so larking around on that before showering and sparking up the bbq.
The bbq was one of the best I can remember – those sausages from Town Farm were so good that even our neighbour came to ask where they were from!
After lunch we were absolutely stuffed so decided on a walk the other way down the Thames- towards Henley on Thames. Last year you may remember we walked as far as Hambleton Lock, and so this afternoon we decided to walk back to The Flowerpot Hotel – this means that we’ve now covered from Henley on Thames to Marlow of the Thames Path.
We enjoyed a couple of drinks before making our way back to Ruby to fall into a Food coma! Actually, we made homemade pizzas in the Remoska but we were tiddly and we made a right mess of them – we did managed a slice each, before falling asleep!
Monday
Time to pack up, but before we headed east home, we dropped into National Trust Cliveden – along with the world and his wife! It was so busy and chaotic there that we managed a lap around the gardens before calling it a day and heading home. The gardens were stunning, there were just so many people.
We’ll have to return!
We had a brilliant weekend, and actually came home a bit grumpy as we’d really “come down”. We enjoyed the location of Hurley Riverside Park, although we personally bought the facilities could have done with a bit of investment. The showers were in a portacabin and although it was warm it wasn’t hugely clean – though I suspect that was more our fellow campers not cleaning up free themselves. The park was full to busting and in our opinion there probably could have been a few more showers – 2 male and 2 female for such a huge site seemed slightly under catered for – we actually had to queue a couple of times! However, a great location for the River Thames.
It’s been almost a week since we arrived home from one of our most favourite tours yet – our tour of Northern Ireland. Since the weather has been so good, and the schools aren’t quite back, we’ve been carrying on in holiday mode with BBQs, al fresco family lunches and trips to the Norfolk Broads. We’ve had time to catch our breath a little, and digest on what a wonderful time we had in Northern Irealand so thought we’d do a little final summary of our trip. We don’t tend to hear of many people travelling from England to Northern Ireland in their campervans and its such a great shame as its just spectacular, so we thought we’d put all the info down in one post here, with the hope it may inspire/encourage you to follow our footstep and go and experience it for yourself!
We used Stena Line Cairnryan to Belfast crossing. Yes, we had to drive a bit further than Liverpool, but the crossing was only 2 and a quarter hours long which is much shorterand we could bring Jazz the dog upstairs with us in his travel crate (this had to be pre booked and he wasn’t allowed to get out of it). We paid mainly in Tesco Clubcard points.
The small ferry at Strangford saved us having to go back on ourselves route wise, was very pretty and fun, and cost £6.80 (I think!)
Lovely facilities, and great view. Right on the start of several walking trails. The waterfall walk is fairly strenuous but worthwhile – lovely and scenic. Be warned- you need to book in advance as you get sent the barrier code by email prior to arrival (this isn’t automated). No warden on site permanently but he came around 8pm to clean and check everything ok. 15 mins drive from the Causeway Coastal Route.
Fantastic campsite. Spotless facilities – clean, modern and spacious. Great location. Walk to Giants Causeway (about 3-4 miles, mainly off road) or bus service which comes into the campsite and takes you to all the tourist locations along the coast. Dogs allowed on bus. Free Wifi. Walking distance to Bushmills Distillery.
Great location, but very dated facilities. Reminded us of an old scout camp! Needs some investment into new facilities block. Location excellent for Castle Ward/Winterfell and Strangford or Portaferry.
Great location, right on the bus route to Belfast City Centre. Facilities fairly good but shower pressure almost non existent! Nice washing up area/kitchen. You need to book in advance as you get sent the barrier code by email prior to arrival (this isn’t automated).
On all 4 campsites our pitch had electric hook up, waste water and a freshwater tap.
In Ireland there is a good selection of continental style overnight stopover “aires” you can use. We passed the one in Waterfoot and the one in Portrush- they looked fine, but we need facilities and areas to “spread out” now we’re in the VW rather than the motorhome. For help sourcing these stopovers, this Facebook page is excellent and has an very useful map of stopovers in Ireland. Britstops also have a number of locations in Ireland.
Sightseeing
We used our National Trust Membership almost daily – the coverage of NT sites is excellent, including The Giants Causeway (although you only pay to park and visit the Visitor Centre and Toilets) and the Carrick a Rede rope bridge, and Castle Ward. We think our joint membership fee was made back on visits just on this trip alone. The Titanic Museum in Belfast is great and well worth the £19 pp entry charge (we debated whether it would be or not)
Food and Drink
We didn’t end up eating out other than Fish and Chips in Belfast. We did however stock up on local produce at every opportunity. We used the local Spa shops (which tended to stock local meat), Farm Shops and the fishmonger who visits Portrush on a Thursday and veg. We loved the local ice cream and also the Bushmills whiskey. There were lots of local ciders and ale to sample along with Guiness of course – oh and the Jawbox Belfast Gin was great. We often had to buy alcohol separately to food – the Spar shops didn’t stock both so we used Wineflair quite a lot. Centra supermarkets along the Causeway Coast had alcohol too, but not the one in Belfast city centre. McKee’s Farm shop near Belfast was amaaaaaazing.
Walking and Cycling
Ordnance Survey hasn’t mapped NI so memory map/ordnance survey apps don’t work. Routes can be found on Walk NI but we missed not having mobile maps tracking us. We enjoyed the walk around the city walls of Derry. There were good off road bike ride and walking routes at Glenariff Forest Park, Bushmills to Giants Causeway, Lough Antrim Shore Park, Castle Ward, Mount Steward andThe Greenway in Belfast.
Dog Friendly?
Along the North Coast, yes. Giant’s Causeway/Carrick a Rede – Yes. Derry City Walls – yes. Derry pubs – no.
Belfast – several dog friendly pubs, some which serve tasty looking food.
From Norfolk to Cainryan in just over half a tank – go Ruby! Filled up at Morrison in Stranraer before the ferry. Only used just over half a tank in NI. Filled up at the docks for £1.30 pl. Most supermarkets were around £1.27 so around the same as England.
Holiday Highlights
Carrick a Rede Rope Bridge – even if you don’t do the bridge walk the scenery along the coast is spectacular.
Giant’s Causeway – obviously!
Port Stewart Strand – still excited that we drove onto the beach for a posh picnic!
Titanic Museum Belfast
Now, what are you waiting for?! Get your trip booked- I promise that you won’t regret it!