The Easter holidays arrived in a blur this year. After what felt like one of the busiest work weeks I can remember, we were more than ready for a break—and we didn’t waste a second. By Friday lunchtime, bags were packed, snacks were stashed, and we were waving goodbye to the UK on the 13:54 Le Shuttle crossing, heading off on an ambitious road trip in Gandalf, our trusty VW campervan.

Day 1: Champagne Dreams in Troyes

Our first destination was Troyes, a charming medieval town in the Champagne region of France. After a smooth Eurotunnel crossing and a solid afternoon on the road, we arrived by Friday evening. We’d heard that Troyes is full of charm—cobbled streets, half-timbered buildings, and the kind of place perfect for a relaxed wander and a quiet drink. But after a hectic week at work and a long day on the road, we arrived just after 7:30pm and quickly decided to be sensible. Rather than push ourselves, we stayed put at Gandalf, made some food, and chilled out. Exploring Troyes is firmly on the list for next time. The overnight spot we picked was ideal for our route south, but with a 30-minute walk each way into town, it just wasn’t realistic given how shattered we were.

We stayed Here

€15 for 24 hrs inc electricity. €3 for water

Day 2: Lake Annecy – Bikes, Views, and Alpine Air

By Saturday lunchtime, we’d reached the stunning Lake Annecy, often dubbed the cleanest lake in Europe. The drive itself was scenic, winding through the French countryside and gradually revealing alpine peaks in the distance.

Once parked up, we hopped on our bikes and enjoyed a relaxed ride along the lakeside cycle paths.

The views across the water to the surrounding mountains were unforgettable, and the town of Annecy—affectionately known as the “Venice of the Alps”—was full of charm, cafés, and postcard-worthy corners.

Campsite at Lake Annecy

€26 for 2 people, 1 dog, and electricity with ACSI card

Great facilities, right on the cycle path, private access to lake (no dogs allowed at lakeshore though). Lidl and a Bus stop within a short walk.

Day 3: Through the Alps into Italy

Sunday began with a drive through the dramatic Chamonix Valley. Even after many road trips, this route took our breath away. Snow-dusted peaks, deep forests, and the promise of crossing into Italy through the Mont Blanc Tunnel kept the energy in Gandalf high.

Emerging on the Italian side felt like an instant shift—warmer air, Mediterranean colours, and winding roads heading down towards the Ligurian coast.

By Sunday afternoon, we rolled into Levanto, on the edge of the Cinque Terre. With Aperol spritz, cold beer, and a glass of bold Italian red in hand, we toasted the fact that in just three days, we’d made it from home to one of the most picturesque coastlines in Europe.

Settling In: Levanto and the Cinque Terre

We’re now parked up in Levanto for three nights, giving both Gandalf (our VW) and his driver a much-needed break. We think Levanto will be a perfect base—slightly quieter than the five famous Cinque Terre villages but connected by the local train line and even a converted railway line which is now a cycle trail, that hugs the cliffs and tunnels through the mountains. Over the next couple of days, we’ll be exploring these UNESCO World Heritage villages—each with its own unique vibe, colourful buildings, and dramatic coastal views.

Tips for Anyone Planning a Similar Trip:

Timing is everything: Leaving early Friday meant we beat a lot of the Easter rush and made solid progress on day one.

Stopovers matter: Choosing towns like Troyes and Annecy gave us something more than just a place to sleep—We like to have a little explore even on driving days (even though we failed on that this time at Troyes, having to listen to our bodies for a change instead!)

Mont Blanc Tunnel: It’s a smooth but pricey crossing (it cost us €54.80 one-way for a campervan), but worth it for the time saved and the views. Had we have not travelled through Mont Blanc tunnel from Annecy, we have only saved €13 (according to Waze, our navigation app)

Péages/ Tolls: When it comes to péages (toll roads), every traveller has their own take. Some swear by the slower, scenic routes; others (like us) often find ourselves on the toll roads, especially when time is limited.

Over the past three days, we’ve spent around £200 on tolls getting from the UK to Northern Italy—including the Mont Blanc tunnel, which alone is a chunk of that cost. It’s definitely not the cheapest way to travel, and if we had more time, we’d probably take it slower and avoid the tolls much more. After all, France is packed with incredible towns, villages, and countryside that you’re far more likely to stumble upon when you’re off the main autoroutes.

But the reality is, we rarely have more than two and a half weeks for a trip like this. So for us, toll roads are about efficiency—they get us to the “main event” of our journey as quickly as possible. Once we’re there, we can slow down and explore properly.

That said, there are definite downsides to the alternative. Non-toll roads can mean an endless series of roundabouts, slower traffic, and occasionally, bumpier surfaces. Our dog, for one, is not a fan. He’s developed a habit of barking at roundabouts—something that doesn’t happen on the toll roads where he happily snoozes through the smooth, straight stretches. So in our case, paying for tolls isn’t just about time—it’s also about keeping the peace in the van (and saving our ears!).

In short: if you’ve got time to meander, the non-toll routes are full of hidden gems. But if you’re on a schedule and want to maximise your time at the destination, toll roads can be worth every penny—and every bit of peace and quiet 😂 they bring.

Levanto as a base: Highly recommend. Less crowded than the Cinque Terre villages, and still full of great food, wine, and beachy vibes.

More updates to come as we explore this incredible coast—one village, one plate of pasta, a pizza and a couple of glasses of wine at a time.

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