Dumfries & Galloway: From Flying Boats to Shooting Stars

Night 23: From Castles to Flying Boats

From our site near Culzean Castle, we carried on south along the coast, passing through Turnberry just as the VP of the USA was visiting the golf resort. The place was buzzing with police and Secret Service, which made for quite the unexpected journey!

We stopped for supplies at Lidl in Ayr before heading to our first night in Dumfries and Galloway. Night 23 found us at the former RAF Wig Bay base, near Stranraer, parked right on one of the old aircraft pads ✈️. For £10, it felt pretty special to camp on a piece of history—especially as history and aviation nerds!

Can you spot Gandalf on the bottom right?

Each campervan gets its own “plane spot,” which makes sense when you realise the Sunderland Flying Boats once based here had a wingspan of 34 metres. Plenty of room for a van! Keefy got the drone out and captured some brilliant shots of the old airfield, which really added to the atmosphere of the place.

The afternoon was blissful—moules for lunch, time to relax, and the novelty of decent mobile signal after being offline for a while. Later we cooked Spanish chicken with rice as the sun went down, watching ferries sail back and forth from Stranraer and Cairnryan. It was a gorgeous evening: a simple meal, a fiery sunset, and a night spent under the stars at a site full of character.

(Privately owned, CAMpRA-accredited aire)

Night 24: The Beach Field That Wasn’t Quite Paradise

Our stop for night 24 had been recommended to me on the VW Camperchicks Facebook page: a privately owned field, no facilities at all—not even a tap—but perched right on the beach with views to die for.

Just before the Mull of Galloway lighthouse, the southernmost point in Scotland, the drive down was breathtaking. Rolling green fields, single-track roads, and the sea sparkling under blue skies—it reminded us of Devon, only wilder.

We chose our pitch, both ignoring a niggling sense that something felt “off.” Seduced by the view from our door, we swam in the sea, sipped drinks in the sunshine, and enjoyed a fish BBQ, pretending we were somewhere in Greece.

But by evening, the cracks showed. With no marked pitches or warden, vans kept squeezing into every inch of space. Families spread out noisily, one van tried to park so close we couldn’t open our door, and worst of all, we watched people digging holes just metres away to bury their waste.

The final straw came at 11pm when a full-timer cranked up a huge speaker system and blasted awful music—before switching to wolves howling on repeat—until 4am. No sleep, just frustration. Our little paradise had become a nightmare.

The next morning, bleary-eyed, we packed up. I suspect outside peak season this spot might be idyllic, but on a Friday night in August, during a heatwave, it was a disaster.

Cost: £2.50 pppn, cash to the farmer at 9pm Facilities: None

Day 25: Trusting Our Instincts Again

Determined to reset, we drove to the Mull of Galloway lighthouse and wandered the dramatic headland—the true southern tip of Scotland. The views were everything: lush pastures dotted with dairy cows, rugged cliffs, twisting lanes, and the glittering Irish Sea.

Despite intending to head inland to a campsite, we had to admit- we weren’t ready to leave the coast just yet. The weather was glorious. Exceptional even. On our way onto the peninsular, we’d spotted a council-designated overnight parking spot just outside a caravan club site—free, and right by the water. We agreed to drop in but this time we promised to listen to our instincts. Our new neighbours welcomed us warmly and assured us it was peaceful. And it was.

We spent the day doing very little—napping, reading, watching the sea. Later, neighbours returned from a kayak trip with sixteen mackerel and kindly offered us a couple. We declined, not knowing how to fillet them (something we instantly regretted—fish-gutting practice is now firmly on our autumn to-do list!).

That night was wonderfully quiet, and in the morning we woke to the most beautiful sight: sea views stretching out beyond our window, a hot cup of tea in hand, and not a sound but the waves. Bliss.

Nights 26 & 27: Inland to Mossend CL

Sadly, despite quite fancying a second night on our aire, our leisure battery forced us inland in search of EHU. We were three nights off EHU now and the weather was hot so the fridge was struggling.

The drive down the Dumfries coast was lovely and scenic, and after an hour we turned inland towards Castle Douglas. We’d booked Mossend, a little CL between Castle Douglas and Kirkcudbright. With just five pitches tucked down a country lane, it was a perfect, tranquil base.

After setting up, we cycled 13 miles return to Castle Douglas and Threave Nature Reserve and Castle. Castle Douglas itself was underwhelming, but the ruined Threave Castle and its surrounding wetlands were worth the visit. Had we more time, we’d have added Threave Gardens too. (National Trust)

That evening, after a BBQ in the blazing sunshine, Keith nudged me awake at midnight with: “The night sky’s worth a look.” Stepping outside, I was stunned. The Milky Way blazed across the sky, shooting stars arced above us—it felt like the whole universe was on display. I even managed to capture a photo on my iPhone with a 30-second exposure, which I’m ridiculously proud of!

We stayed another night, making the most of Mossend (£15pn with EHU, water and waste). With our awning up and the Joolca hot tap running, it felt like home.

The next day we cycled into Kirkcudbright (13 miles return along National Cycle network 7)—a complete contrast to Castle Douglas. This little harbour town is bursting with colour, charm, and history. We followed a Wicker Man filming trail, wandered Broughton House and Garden (once home to artist E.A. Hornel), and loved how dog-friendly it all was—Jazz was even given a treat or two!

We’d hoped to enjoy fresh seafood from a harbour shack, but as it was Monday, everywhere was closed. So we ended up having to have a Coop meal deal each – at least with a sea view. Not quite the seafood feast we’d imagined, but memorable all the same. We did enjoy a drink in the Mason Arms.

Farewell to Scotland

And just like that, our 3.5 weeks in Scotland have come to an end. From the West Highland Way and Ben Nevis, to the Isle of Mull, Ayrshire, and now Dumfries and Galloway, it’s been a trip that surpassed every expectation. The weather has been kind, the landscapes endlessly varied, and our love for this country has only deepened.

We’ve time for one last adventure before heading home—so stay tuned to see where we land next.

Until next time

Cycling, Castles & Coastlines: An Ayrshire Adventure

Monday

We left Mull at lunchtime, restocked the fridge, and set off towards Loch Earn. The drive took us through wet and wild weather, but, as if on cue, the rain stopped and blue skies broke through the moment we arrived at our campsite.

Without wasting time, we unloaded the bikes and found a nearby disused railway trail. This linked to the Rob Roy Way along the old Callander railway, climbing into the hills above the A82. The views were spectacular, with the highlight being the beautiful Glen Ogle viaduct. We clocked up 13 miles on the bikes, and had time allowed, we could have ridden on to Killin in one direction or Callander in the other.

The campsite was a gem — right on the edge of Loch Earn, a C&MC CL site with electric hook-up, shower, and toilet (£30 per night). It’s also based at a boat hire and trout farm. We had the entire place to ourselves, and the evening was spent outdoors by the fire, marvelling at how different the weather was compared to the journey in.

Tuesday – Into Ayrshire

We continued south, crossing into Ayrshire and stopping in Ayr to visit the Robert Burns Birthplace Museum and his actual birthplace. Both were fascinating, as was the picturesque Brig o’ Doon, immortalised in his poem Tam o’ Shanter.

The bikes came out again for a loop along the Ayr Coastal Path, following another disused railway and passing through the Alloway railway tunnel — an unexpected highlight with its walls covered in colourful murals.

From there, we headed to our campsite for the next two nights: Thomason Farm, opposite Culzean Castle. This C&CC CS site offered lovely views towards Arran, walking access to the castle, EHU, basic but functional facilities, and waste disposal (£20 per night).

Dinner was venison burgers on the Cadac and a relaxed evening accompanied by a stunning sunset.

Wednesday – Sunshine & Castles

The weather was perfect for our activities lined up for today – After a morning doing laundry – hand washing- we made our way down the track from the campsite for a visit to Culzean Castle. It’s perched dramatically on the Ayrshire cliffs overlooking the Firth of Clyde and a sight to behold. We spent several hours exploring the castle and the grounds- making very good use of our National Trust Membership. It’s also been used as a filming location for both The Wicker Man and The Queen. Well worth a trip.

The afternoon was spent sunbathing back at the van before enjoying steak night, accompanied by a bottle of Pape — a thoughtful gift from some of my students — and fresh potatoes from the very farm we were staying on.

It’s been a wonderful few days, and next we’re looking forward to following the coastline further to explore Dumfries and Galloway.

Isle of Mull – Wild Roads, Windswept Camps, and a Dream Come True

After leaving Fort William, our plan was simple: take the Corran Ferry, then head towards Lochaline for the regular, no-reservations ferry to Mull.

Unfortunately, the Corran Ferry was out of action for repairs, which sent us on a long but stunning detour — over 60 miles of winding single-track roads. It was slow going, but the scenery made it worthwhile, with lochs shimmering in the sun and even a majestic stag appearing along the way. We even got to see Fort William from the other side of the loch!

By the time we reached the Lochaline ferry, we’d missed the morning sailings, so we caught the first crossing after lunch. Just £16 for the motorhome, two adults, and a dog — and 18 minutes later we rolled onto the Isle of Mull.

Fidden Farm – Front Row to Paradise

From the ferry, it was another two hours of single-track driving before we reached Fidden Farm Campsite. This no-reservations spot is vast, right on the water’s edge, with jaw-dropping sea views. We managed to bag a front-row pitch and couldn’t believe our luck.

It’s simple camping — no electric hook-up — but it does have showers, toilets, and a washing-up area. If you’re happy to go off-grid, it’s the perfect base. The wind was howling, but we were under clear blue skies, so nothing could dampen our spirits. Dinner that night was local beef burgers with new potatoes and salad — delicious followed by a stunning sunset.

Friday – A Slow Day in Fionnphort

We declared it a duvet day, staying in bed until after 11 reading and recharging, before cooking up a hearty brunch.

Then we wandered the mile or so into Fionnphort, a tiny village with a shop, pub, craft stores, and the ferry terminal for the Isle of Iona.

We enjoyed a pint and a Tobermory whisky in the pub, booked a trip to Staffa for a couple of days time , and strolled back for a Scottish cheese board, another dram, and chicken fajitas for dinner. We were exceptionally chilled here!

Saturday – Cycling to Iona

The morning started with a gentle bike ride along a loop from the campsite to Fionnphort, almost entirely on quiet lanes or off-road tracks.

From there, we boarded the 10-minute ferry to Iona — £5 return per person, free for bikes and dogs. With just 170 residents and no tourist cars allowed, Iona is peaceful and green, its coastline scattered with white sand beaches. The hills have a rugged beauty, a little like the Peak District.

We explored the island, browsed the small larder for local treats (including a small bottle of Iona gin), and enjoyed drinks in the Argyll Hotel’s beer garden, which might just have the best beer garden view in Scotland. On returning to Mull, we grabbed haddock and chips from the Creel Seafood Bar — without a doubt the best fish and chips we’ve had.

Sunday – Staffa: A Lifelong Wish

It was hard to leave Fidden Farm — £12 per person per night felt like a bargain for somewhere this special — but we had one more adventure before totally leaving the area.

Leaving Gandalf in Fionnphort, we boarded a Staffa Tours boat to the Isle of Staffa. They welcome dogs, and on the way, we spotted a pod of dolphins.

As we approached Fingal’s Cave, the crew played an extract from Mendelssohn’s Hebrides Overture — music I’ve loved since A-level music class over 20 years ago. I’ll admit, I cried. A lot!

Landing on Staffa, we explored the cave, its towering basalt columns echoing with the crash of waves. The geology is similar to the Giant’s Causeway, but the atmosphere is something else entirely. For me, it was utterly magical. During the June – July this is a great spot for watching puffins. Although this makes it more complicated with taking dogs during this period. Today however we did see a lone puffin on the sea bobbing away. Apparently a rare sighting for this time of year. The trip to Staffa/ Fingal’s Cave was absolutely brilliant – and a huge tick off my bucket list. We wholeheartedly recommend this tour.

Tobermory & Farewell Mull

Once back on Mull, we drove north to Tobermory, with its colourful harbourfront houses. After a look around we picked up some Tobermory gin and whisky, then continued to Salen Bay Campsite for our final night.

Salen Bay campsite isn’t quite our cup of tea, however it was always going to struggle after such an idyllic time at Fidden. There are views over the sea and the showers are hot and clean. However our pitch- a grass pitch with electric- it’s very uneven but worse- is close to a party of people in tents and there is just not much room between us – plus they’re loud! Also we’re getting fed up with people totally disregarding our pitch space by using it as a cut through to the nearby amenities block. Had we have been sat outside with the bbq going we’d have likely had to have said something but as it happens we’re cosy in the van so not such a problem.

We needed electric tonight though and it’s raining so we can’t complain- we’re plugged in, warm and had sausage and mash for tea! There are however some nice pitches on the site – the electric hard standing look nicer than the grass pitch we opted for. It’s close to the ferry ports so works well for a first or last stop.

Loch views when the weather is better to the far left.

Mull gave us everything we hoped for — and more. Wild beauty, wonderful wildlife, and one of the most scenic spots we’ve camped at. The wind may have been relentless at times, but it kept the midges away. We’re leaving as the weather turns, following the sunshine elsewhere else, but Mull has left its mark and I’m gutted to be leaving.

Fort William – Part Two: A Surprise Date with Ben Nevis

Funny how things work out sometimes.

Literally seconds after hitting publish on our last blog post, we opened the curtains… and there it was. Blue skies. Sunshine. That kind of rare Highland weather that makes you stop and say, “Shame we’re not doing Ben Nevis today, the weather’s beautiful.”

Cue a solid half-hour of “Should we? Could we? Are we actually doing this?”

One quick chat with the campsite confirmed they had space for us (albeit on a different pitch), and just like that—it felt like a sign. The weather gods were saying, “It’s your time…”

So we moved the van, threw together a packed lunch, grabbed our gear, and by 9:45am, we were on the trail.

Let’s not sugarcoat it—the hike up Ben Nevis is brutal. There were at least three points where I nearly turned back, and it took every ounce of stubbornness I could summon to keep going.

Keith and Jazz handled the climb better than I did, but after four long hours, we reached the summit—touching the famous trig point at the top of the UK’s highest mountain.

Clouds had rolled in over the summit by then, so the views from the peak were a little grey—but the rest of the way up and down was absolutely stunning. Mountains, valleys, lochs… it was the Highlands at their best.

The way down didn’t offer much relief on our legs- That loose stone path is a killer on tired legs, and by the end, we were done in. But after three hours of cautious descent, we were finally back on solid, flat ground.

And let me tell you—the beer at the Ben Nevis Inn has never tasted so good.

So that’s it: Ben Nevis, officially ticked off the bucket list.

Tomorrow we can move onwards with no regrets whatsoever about our time in Fort William.

🚐 Walking the West Highland Way in Comfort: Our Campervan-Based Adventure

The West Highland Way is one of Scotland’s most iconic long-distance walking routes, stretching 96 miles from Milngavie to Fort William. We’ve been gagging to give it a go since we completed Hadrians Wall Path last year.

While many choose to backpack or book accommodation along the route, we decided to take a different approach — combining the freedom of walking with the comforts of our VW campervan.

With no backup crew, just the two of us and our dog, Jazz, we walked the WHW over 8 days, using a mix of strategic campsite bookings, cab transfers, and our trusty campervan as a moving basecamp.

Why This Approach?

Yes, it meant a bit more planning and a few cab fares, but we got the best of both worlds:
• Hot showers every night without setting up a shower tent
• Warm and comfy bed and home-cooked meals after long hikes.
• Dog-friendly and flexible travel.
• Average cost- accommodation and transfers: ~£83/night for two people + dog.

We could have wild camped to save money, but we value a real shower, comfy bed and a proper rest after hiking all day. For us, that trade-off was worth every penny.


📅 Our West Highland Way Itinerary (Campervan-Style)

Style: South to North

Distance: 96 miles

Dates: Started walking Sunday 28th July and finished on Sunday 3rd August 2025

Setup: Campervan + daypacks + pre-booked taxis

With dog: Yes – all campsites and taxis dog-friendly

Day 0 – Arrive & Base at Drymen

We arrived in Drymen and set up the van at Drymen Camping for two nights. It’s a great base to start from, walking distance to pubs and shops. This gave us a buffer day before starting the trail.

Drymen Campsite

Day 1 – Milngavie to Drymen (~12 miles)

OS route here

We took a pre-booked taxi from Drymen to the official WHW start in Milngavie, then walked back to the van at Drymen Camping. Simple start, with easy and flat paths- good to get the legs going on day 1. We walked past Drymen campsite into the village and finished at the pub, The Clahcan. We had to walk back to campsite but saved 1.4 miles off day 2’s walk.


Day 2 – Drymen to Cashel (~11.25 miles)

OS Route here

We moved the van to Cashel campsite on Loch Lomond in the morning (about a 20-min drive), then took a taxi back to Drymen (Clahcan pub) to walk this section.

Cashel Campsite is scenic and a really lovely spot to stay for a couple of nights. We were blessed with amazing weather whilst here and were able to enjoy some million dollar cooking and eating views from our pitch – well worth paying for the premium loch side pitch.


Day 3 – Cashel to Inversnaid (~12 miles)

OS Route here

We walked from the campsite this morning on a beautiful but tougher section along the loch edge to Inversnaid Hotel. We’d pre-booked a taxi to pick us up from there and take us back to Cashel. This is a long and expensive fare because it’s 1hr 15 mins back via road from Inversnaid hotel to Cashel site due to only one mountain pass route down.


Day 4 – Inversnaid to Beinglass Farm (~6.5 miles)

OS Route here

We moved the van to Beinglass Farm campsite early (a long journey -1 hr 15 mins). We were able to set up the van, then had a pre booked cab from Beinglass to Tarbet Pier, where we took a water bus boat across to Inversnaid, and walked back to the van. Slightly more complicated logistics, but it worked smoothly and was governed by the 11:45 water bus, so a later start walking but it felt like a holiday in a holiday! And the ferry journey was lovely!

The walk, despite only being 6 miles was very tough going. The path was very uneven, with clambering over huge boulders, tree roots and more. It was slow going and we were glad to be able to split this into two unlike most people who tack this onto our previous day (and then struggle hugely and in some cases quit the walk!) Despite a hard day/ the views were magnificent.

We very much enjoyed some post walk drinks in the renowned Drovers Inn. Established in 1705, it was originally a resting spot for highland drovers (cattle herders). Today, it’s known for its quirky, atmospheric décor, taxidermy-filled rooms, traditional Scottish hospitality, hearty food, and live music. The inn combines rustic charm with ghostly legends, making it a popular stop for tourists exploring the West Highland Way.


Day 5 – Beinglass to Tyndrum (~12 miles)

OS Route here

We moved the van to Tyndrum Holiday Park in the morning, then got a taxi pick up and dropped back at Beinglass to start the walk. Easy trail day, with lovely views and following the old Military Road.


Day 6 – Tyndrum to Kingshouse (~19.4 miles)

OS Route here

A Long day! We walked the full stretch leaving the campsite Tyndrum Holiday Park at 7am and getting to Kingshouse at 4:30pm with refreshment stops at The Bridge of Orchy hotel, and Inveroran Hotel. Although big on miles, a thoroughly enjoyable and relatively easy walk.

Unfortunately, the A82 was closed due to an incident when it was time to transfer back, so our planned taxi couldn’t reach us. Luckily, we managed to get a lift from a driver who had just dropped someone at Kingshouse. We shared the £50 fare with two other walkers and got back to our van in Tyndrum. A reminder that whilst things had been smooth so far, logistical problems can hinder your day- which wouldn’t affect you if you’re doing a point to point on route approach!


Day 7 – Kingshouse to Kinlochleven (~10.5 miles)

OS Route Here

We had a taxi to take us from Tyndrum to Kingshouse in the morning, then walked from there to Kinlochleven. Our taxi came back for us that evening and returned us to the van again in Tyndrum. This was our favourite day on the the trail, the views through Glencoe were absolutely outstanding. (We had amazing weather!)


Tyndrum Holiday Park

Day 8 – Kinlochleven to Fort William (~15.7 miles)

OS Route here

Final day! An early start, We moved the van early to Glen Nevis campsite (very close to the finish line), then took a taxi back to Kinlochleven at 08:15 and walked the final leg to Fort William. A tough day on the trail but we got there, and there was a great atmosphere at the end in the Black Isle Bar with walking friends we’d encountered along the way!


🚕 Taxi Cost Summary

Days 1–3: Drymen Taxi Service – £100

We pre-booked three journeys with Drymen Taxi Service about two months in advance. We paid the full £100 at the end of Day 3. All journeys were prompt and smooth and not at all a reflection of their reviews online. We thoroughly recommend Ian and his team.

Drymen → Milngavie

Cashel → Drymen

Inversnaid → Cashel

Days 4, 5 & 7: Crianlarich Cars – £170

We used Crianlarich Cars for five legs over three days. Ian (owner) and Jimmy (his deputy) were absolutely brilliant — always early, helpful, and flexible when plans had to change due to road closures.

Beinglass → Tarbet Pier ( for the waterbus to Inversnaid)

Tyndrum → Beinglass

Tyndrum → Kingshouse

Kinlochleven → Tyndrum

(Flexible extra support when A82 was shut)

Day 6: Kingshouse → Tyndrum – £50 (shared)

The A82 closure made it tough to coordinate transport. We were supposed to have Crainlarich cars to collect us but a 9 hour road closure between Crainlarich and Tyndrum meant he couldn’t get to us although he was insistent he’d come as soon as the road reopened no matter what time so we were never stranded. Luckily though, we got an on-the-spot taxi from someone who’d just dropped off walkers at Kingshouse. Shared with 2 others, our portion came to £25.

Day 8: Glen Nevis → Kinlochleven – £60

We used Nevis Cars to get us from Glen Nevis Campsite (near the finish) back to Kinlochleven so we could walk into Fort William. Quick, reliable service.

Total Taxi Costs: £380

Jimmy the Cab driver made a point of collecting us from the van each time! Which was welcome

Bus Alternatives – Why We Didn’t Take Them

Let’s talk about buses. Yes, they were an option. A significantly cheaper one, in fact—we reckon we could’ve saved around £175 on transfers by using public transport instead of taxis. Tempting, right?

There’s a solid bus service that runs from Beinglass/Inverarnan all the way up to Glencoe Mountain Resort (which is just about a mile before Kingshouse). Two companies operate this stretch: Citylink and Ember. The problem? Citylink doesn’t allow dogs. Ember does—but their buses are far less frequent.

We looked into it. Properly. But the Ember timetable just didn’t work for us. It would’ve meant either ridiculously early starts or hanging around for hours waiting on connections—particularly tricky when coordinating with things like the waterbus.

At one point, we even considered piecing together a two-bus journey from Glen Nevis to Kinlochleven. But again, dogs were taken at the driver’s discretion. We just couldn’t risk being turned away, especially when that would’ve meant starting a 15-mile day at nearly midday.

In the end, the taxis—while costly—gave us what we needed: flexibility. They worked around our timings, whether we were ahead of schedule or dawdling. So yes, it stung the budget a bit, but we don’t regret it. The ease and adaptability made a big difference, and for us, that was worth the spend.


📝 Final Thoughts

This van + taxi setup worked brilliantly for us. It let us hike light, sleep well, eat brilliantly and keep the dog comfy too. The trade-off was having to manage transport logistics, but it was 100% worth it for the flexibility and rest between days.

This setup would suit anyone who:

-Has a campervan (but not too big as Drymen only take small vans) and doesn’t want to move every day

-Is hiking with a dog or young companion

– Wants to avoid carrying heavy gear

-Prefers campsite comforts to wild camping

-Doesn’t mind organising things ahead of time

Would we do a multi day linear hike again in this fashion? Absolutely! We loved it and for us it couldn’t have been more perfect. It’s fiddly at times, you have to think outside the box sometimes but the satisfaction of completing it with Gandalf the Grey was just brilliant!

The finishing campsite – Glen Nevis

Things we found useful for planning and during our trip!

Please note some of these Amazon items are linked to my affiliate account and if you order through the link I will receive a few pence income per item ordered

West Highland Way Book

Walking poles

Water bottles 1 litre

Blister Plasters

Tick remover for dogs

Toe liner socks – anti blister

Merrell women walking shoe

Merrell Men walking boot

Insta360 camera

Smidge – vital for this time of year

Head net for the midges


If you find this page useful and can see yourselves using it for your own adventure, perhaps you’d consider Buying me a beer 🍺.

The Great Northern Roadtrip, Part 4; a Beach break in Banff


We had slow pack up at Dufftown as our check out wasn’t until 11am, and our check in at the next site wasn’t until 1pm – but was only 50  mins drive away.  We made the short journey to Banff, stopped to top up our fridge and made our way to our final campsite of the trip, Banff Links Caravan Park in time for 1pm. 
Keith spent hours researching this, he felt sure we’d appreciate a good sea view (he was correct!), and spent ages trying to find one where we had a great view. His hours of research paid off and we were chuffed to bits when they said we could park side on the pitch as we were small.

So here’s a top tip. If you are booking this site and are in a VW, go for the ‘Seafront grass pitch with electric’. We stayed on pitch 29 and it was wonderful. At £35 pn we felt it was good value for the view alone. The toilets and showers were dated but that view. Money couldn’t buy it! 


Keith made a haggis pizza to go in the remoska for lunch whilst we set up, and I’m not lying when I say we literally sat and watch the sea view. The WHOLE afternoon, evening, the whole of the next day and night and then some more the following day. It did not get old. I had brought my paddlebaord in the hope that i could use it here but the wind was high and as such a surf board would have been better! 
We napped, ate, drank and marvelled at the view. The weather could have been better but could have been worse. 

On Tuesday we began to feel guilty that we’d been VERY lazy, so decided to take a short walk up the beach to nearby Whitehall’s, where there is a very well stocked shop and a lovely cosy pub- we had a pint, well it would have been rude not too! AND a fishmongers. We could have spent a small fortune there but decided to get some Cullen skink tubs which had won awards. There was also a ceramic craft studio opposite the pub where I brought a lovely pair of earrings.


We passed the Roman well here, who knew the Romans got this far north, before making our way back to the van, satisfied that we’d had an adventure and an explore. Lol.


In actual fact, there is loads to do here. We’ve just visited this coast SO many times and we really need to stop and unwind this time.
If you are new to this area, firstly, what are you waiting for- please go and explore the Aberdeenshire coast line. Places of interest with easy access from this site

  • Portsoy, an easy cycle way. Historic Harbour, filming location of Peaky Blinders. Great Ice cream!
  • Cullen Skink. Nice little town, good beach, home to CULLEN SKINK, the most delicious fish chowder. A great old railway line to cycle here. 
  • Fraserburgh- fabulous lighthouse with a great lighthouse which you can visit. 
  • Macduff. Walkable. Filming location of the most recent series of The Crown. In fact last time we were here we saw Emelda Staunton filming! 
  • Gardenstown. Very cute little fishing village
  • Crovie. Absolutely tiny but utterly delightful hamlet. No cars allowed on the main strip. Just charming. 
  • Pennan- one of the filing locations of the hit film Local Hero. 
  • Bow Fiddle  Rock- a terrific rock formation. No prizes for what it resembles. 

I’m sure I’ve missed stuff off here, but these are in the immediate area and most can be cycled too. There is a good bus service running along the coast and a fairly decent off road bike track covers a large portion of it.
Our campsite, Banff Links was a definite return to for us. We loved being able to go side on and although the weather wasn’t great, we lost hours just staring at the view.


We’ve had a great time up north, once again our hearts have been captured by Scotland- it’s the one place in the world that we consistently return to!
We look forward to returning again next year!
We’re off on our long haul adventure next week, which i’ll be blogging about on our sister site wanderleefy.com. It’s a very exciting one, and although we aren’t RVing, we ARE roadrripping and this tour particularly would work well in a camper. So if you’re interested… head on over and click subscribe.
We’ll be back out in the van in September!
Until next time Lx


(previous Aberdeenshire posts)

The Great Northern Roadtrip, Part 2; Dundee

From our hideaway at North Berwick, we headed north, passing Edinburgh in absolutely torrential rain. We weren’t too fussed about the weather though as our activity for today was a definite indoor activity. We were making a stop at a top secret location; labelled Scotland’s Secret Bunker, an underground nuclear command station, built 100 m underneath an unsuspecting farmhouse not farm from St Andrews in 1953.

Today the bunker houses all sorts of historical displays and you can wander the very interesting corridors and rooms. Of particular interest was the fully functional BBC recording studio set up for communications in event of nuclear attack. It certainly was a sobering visit and well worth the stop especially if you’ve not been in one before

. If we were being picky we both agreed that we preferred our visit to Kelvden Hatch in Essex, the English equivalent, but if you’ve not been to one before then I’m sure you’d be blown away with this one.

From here, we did a small detour through St Andrews to see the historic gold course, before making our way the last few miles to our campsite in Tayport. We were staying at the Larick Campsite, a community run campsite about 2 miles south of Dundee.

The campsite was busy and had a modern facility block. It was well situated for the main off road bike route into Dundee and also to Tentsmuir Forest.

We had the evening enjoying the sunshine after the rain that we’d travelled through, and wandered into the village for a couple of drinks too. There isn’t much at Tayport, a couple of pubs, a pretty harbour, and a Coop, but it served us well for our stay.

The next day we cycled a little through Tentsmuir forest; the tracks here were more suitable for mountain biking than our road bikes really, but we enjoyed the variety of scenery nonetheless before turning round and heading to Dundee.

The route was all off road and largely tarmac hugging the coast. We crossed the Tay bridge and made our way to V and A museum practically next door to the loft (which by the way had a special bike lift to get off the bridge!) At the V&A there was plenty of secure bike parking.

Here we met our friends Norrie and Caroln- Ann. They whizzed us off in their car for a whistle stop tour of Dundee! We saw maritime history, dandy and Beano history, we went up to the peak-Dundee Law.

We then travelled a short way up to Broughty Ferry to look at the castle and beyond to Arbroath, for some world famous Arbroath smokies for lunch. The smokies were absolutely incredible, so very tasty, our hosts instructed us to eat them out of their paper with our fingers as that was the local way.

From here we made our way to the V&A to retrieve our bikes and we bid them farewell and headed back to Gandalf. Dinner was a beef casserole which had been cooking in the slow cooker, but we were still rather full so, only had half of it, saving the rest for lunch tomorrow.

The next day dawned sunny and we had a fairly lazy morning. Just before lunchtime we loaded our food flasks with warmed up casserole and cycled back into Dundee, leaving our bikes once more at the V&A. We’d learn that the HMS Unicorn was dog friendly so decided to give it a visit.

It turned out to be a very fascinating visit. The Unicorn is the oldest original ship in the world- 200 years old next year and absolutely no restoration work done to it (yet). Set over 4 floors, the lowest being only 4.5 feet high as you are right in the shops hold, it’s not an easy visit for someone of height – Keefy is 6 foot 4 and managed but spent at least half of the visit bent over.

We really enjoyed the visit and it’s highly worth visiting if you’re in Dundee.

Next up we had our casserole lunch whilst having a drink outside the V&A, before Keefy went for a quick look around the RSS Discovery. This wasn’t dog friendly so I sat outside and read my book.

The Discovery was Captain Cook’s ship, and was built here in Dundee, before of course taking him and Shackleton onto their exploration of Antarctica and the South Pole back in the early 1900s. Of course back then that area was totally undiscovered. Keefy really enjoyed the visit and I’d have liked to have had a quick look myself but sadly we had run out of time and needed to head back to the campsite.

Although we had booked a third night here, we’d been invited to go to our friends so we left the campsite mid afternoon and made our way to the other side of Dundee for an evening with our friends. We went for a Friday night out out in Broughty Ferry, which was lovely. There are plenty of historic pubs and we ate at The Ship, which had great views over the sea back towards Tayport where our campsite was. The food was delicious and the Cullen sink there absolutely tremendous! We had a great night- thanks Norrie and Carol- Anne.

We liked the location of Larick campsite but it was unfortunately let down by very noisy campers (although overnight was quiet) and the showers, whilst being modern weren’t really hot enough for our liking. There were a lot of rules on site, along with live on wardens but unfortunately we didn’t see the wardens implementing any rules! Having said all of that, we enjoyed our trip to Dundee, especially catching up with our friends and actually we’d really recommend Dundee as a place to visit. Especially if you like cycling, as I don’t think I’ve seen anywhere else in the UK so bike friendly, with an excellent networks of off road paths which were well signed, and ample bike parking all over.

Thanks for a great time Dundee – we’ll be back someday I’m sure!

The Great Northern Roadtrip; Part 1. Norfolk – North Berwick

We had an early start on Sunday as we were keen to get to York by late morning. We had booked onto the Leeds DA THS (Temporary Holiday Site); this is a benefit of being a C&CC member, each region hosts its own THS and club meets and these tend to be on large rally fields in interesting locations at a fraction of the cost of mainstream campsites. They tend to have chemical loo disposal, bins and a water tap and can cost between £5-£15 pn.

We stayed on the Bishopsthorpe THS for one night at a cost of £15 which compared to the prices of the club site in York £40pn+ we felt was a bargain.

Bishopsthorpe is just a couple of miles south of York and linked via a very good traffic free but tarmac cycle path. It’s also got a couple of pubs and is within easy access of the solar system. Yes, you read that correctly! York University installed a few years ago, a reduced, but still accurate scale solar system trail along a disused railway path now cycle trail.

You start at the sun, which is about a mile towards York from Bishopsthorpe and then cycle through the solar system for 6 miles! It’s wonderful. Each planet has some interesting info to read and there is even a replica of Voyager 2 along the way. (Click on individual pics to make larger)

We really enjoyed our cycle along here and would totally recommend it. More info here

Having cycled the solar system, we retraced our steps so to speak back into York- which was 10 miles from Pluto 😜 all off road and the last bit took us right through the Racecourse.

We’ve been to York many times so the usual tourist places were skipped this time, our evening was spent catching up with a friend of ours over some beers in some lovely dog friendly historical establishments. We particularly enjoyed a beer in the roof garden of The Habit- which had amazing views over the Cathedral. We also had a delicious toad in the hole dinner at the Guy Fawkes inn. (Where Guy Fawkes was born)

Our York time was short and sweet this time, but it’s one of our favourite cities in the UK and if you’ve not been we’d highly recommend it.

It’s worth keeping an eye out for the THSs as it’s a much cheaper way of visiting. But there are plenty of campsites to choose from for York adventures and it is a very cycle friendly and dog friendly city.

Moving on from York, we hit the A1 north for 4 hours across the border into Scotland and arrived at North Berwick. We have passed by many times but never stopped. We had intended on staying at the THS here but bad planning on my part hadn’t appreciated how far out of N Berwick it actually was and as the weather was rainy we wanted to be closer to town so we cold enjoy some pub action.

“Wild camping” is much more tolerated in Scotland than England so we decided to bypass the THS and find ourselves a spot closer to town instead. We found a great spot on Tantallon terrace just on the outskirts of N Berwick via Park4night app and couldn’t believe our luck when we managed to get a spot which would work only for a side on small van like ours.

Jackpot!

We settled in, and had a walk into town for a few drinks. Our parking spot was free so we were keen to spend some pennies in town. We had a couple of drinks and chatted to locals in the Auld Hoose and then more drinks at the Ship, before going back to the van and drinking in the magnificent views.

Next day and we decided to stay for an additional night- the sun was shining so we offloaded our bikes and had a cycle around the local area. We looked at Tantallon castle and enjoyed the coastal views. We then made our way back into town for a delicious lunch at the Lobster shack. My north Berwick lobster and crab rolls were just Devine!

From here we made our way back to the van for a bit fat chill. It was great and we’d really enjoyed our time here. There were many vans parked up, but everyone seemed to be behaving themselves and locals didn’t seem bothered either.

After our second night we moved on further north, taking nothing but photos and leaving nothing but footprints. A perfect start to our roadtrip and great to be back in Scotland, our spiritual home

Adventures on the Moray Firth, Scotland

Gandalf the VW is parked up with a terrific view of the Moray Firth, in the highlands of Scotland, near to Lossiemouth.

We made the 5 hour journey from Beadnall bay, with a couple of comfort stops en route/ it was a tiring drive but the end result- our pitch at West Bay Caravan Park was worth the drive.

Our drive through the Cairngorms on the A9 enabled us to stop for supplies at an old haunt of ours, the House Of Bruar- a fabulous collection of local food, drink and goodies and we raided their cheese and butchery section as well as their local drinks too. Well worth a stop if you’re passing but perhaps hide your credit card as it’s easy to get carried away in there! Haha

We arrived on site about 5:30 and despite our weariness managed a quick set up. Our pitch had lovely views of the ocean and was close to the facilities block- we both enjoyed long hot showers in a heated shower block having had 6 nights of camping showers in our awning.

Our dinner was sausage and mash- with venison Sausage from the House of Bruar. Absolutely gorgeous and easily done in the Remoska now we were back on electric after 4 nights off grid.

We sat outside until dark, admiring the cruise liner leaving Invergorden just down the coast and slept well – especially after I took down the awning at 2am- the wind off the sea was making a racket through the awning!

Sunday arrived and we were both feeling tired – it had been a full on week of travelling on top of a full on half term of work.

We decided to have a day of doing nothing. We took a gentle walk to the village shop to pick up a couple of supplies and then Keefy made a delicious haggis pizza for lunch.

He started it off on the cadac pizza stone but it was struggling against the wind, so we transferred it to the Remoska for the second half of cooking. It was delicious.

We then took a wander down to the campsite beach and had some time larking around on the paddle board. I enjoyed a swim too. We both enjoyed making use of the on site bar, the Salty Dog when we made our way to the site for a dram.

After a lazy afternoon back at the van we cooked up Cullen skink for dinner which was delicious.

A perfect day of just sitting and watching the sea – something that we had driven all this way for- it really hit the spot.

Monday arrived and despite a not so pleasant weather forecast we were blessed with beautiful sunshine. We unloaded the bikes and cycled along the Moray coastal trail to Lossiemouth (6 miles but sadly not off road like other parts of the trail- although the road wasn’t too busy)

We found the bar/restaurant Harbour Lights immediately and got won over by their position and menu.

Keith had grilled haddock and I enjoyed Cullen skink for the second time in less than 24 hours! I have to say theirs was absolutely exquisite. We then cycled around the harbour, pausing on the wall for a while enjoying the sunshine and also on the look out for dolphins. I’d seen some from the pitch at the campsite yesterday but Keith missed them. I was itching for us both to see them together.

Alas, we were in the wrong place at the wrong time and no dolphins made their appearance- it didn’t matter though, we loved siting there nice and relaxed.

After a quick stop at the Coop we made our way back to the site for a relax. We enjoyed a local cheeseboard and to our delight spotted a pod of dolphins swimming by.

We spent the reminder of the day relaxing watching the sea and another cruise ship- before enjoying dinner- homemade chicken balmoral. (Chicken stuffed with haggis wrapped in bacon) served with neeps and tatties and cooked in the Remoska.

Tuesday arrived and again the weather was better than the forecast! We unloaded the bikes again and made a short but beautiful journey to Burghead. This section of the coastal trail is only 2 miles but is fully off road on a disused railway track – part of the Moray coastal trail.

Burghead is small but very traditional. The harbour is used for fishermen although there is a company operating boat trips, which we would have loved to have done one- sadly they aren’t dog friendly without us chartering the entire boat at almost £500 for 2 hours. A shame really- we’ve always managed a boat trip with Jazz and considering the amount of campers with dogs on our site I’m surprised there isn’t a market for dog friendly boat trips along this stretch of the Moray which is heavily populated with dolphins so would make an exciting family activity. But there we go. We saved ourselves £70 (or £500 for the charter) but for the record we were willing to spend our £70 to a local company for a boat trip.

We picked up a scotch pie and a macaroni pie for a picnic lunch to enjoy on the long journey back to Gandalf – haha! – from the Coop- nowhere else open in Burghead. We also enjoyed a look at the Pictish fort, which had great views along the coast too.

Once back at the van we went back down to the beach for more paddle board fun before enjoying more cheese, dolphin watching and an afternoon snooze.

When we were awake we couldn’t take our eyes off the sea!

Dinner was a slow cooker special of Beef stroganoff. As I went to wash up, We saw more dolphins – a majestic site. I just love them.

After dinner we started packing up as tomorrow was our big drive home. We enjoyed the most spectacular sunset we’ve ever seen I think in Scotland that evening. We could have been in Greece.

We’d very much enjoyed our time at West Beach Caravan Park. Although it was pricier at £37 pn we were pleased with the sea view- despite not being right on the front row (we only booked 10 days prior to arrival- the front row book up months in advance and I can see why!) we had a great view. Some of the pitches on the site in our opinion are better than others. The front row (S then number) are phenomenal location just a stone throw to the water. The ones behind that were ok, but a little hemmed in as were the E pitches in our opinion . We liked the VW pitches which we were on but felt ours #7 was the best of those as it had no van on one whole side so you got a wide view of the sea.

We did feel the rules on site were hit and Miss. No ball games for example but no one monitoring when people were playing ball games and therefore hitting our van. Parking with doors facing a particular way made some A class motorhomes that were LH have their main window away from the view. That must have been annoying.

The showers were well cleaned and nice but the push button was the shortest we’ve ever encountered and could have been a degree or two warmer.

Usually we’re not too fussy on these things but I suppose when you’re paying premium you take more notice of smaller details. Having said all of this- we really enjoyed our stay, it was perfect for our needs and we will likely return at some point.

As we left on Wednesday, we decided to make a morning of it seeing as the weather was so good and we were craving the mountains. We filled with fuel at Elgin which was so cheap (£1.78 haha!) and then made our way to Braemar. The route was splendid passing through Tomintoul – we were in heaven. At Braemar we then headed towards Pitlochry – another extremely scenic route, before joining the A9 which led us on our journey south and back home.

If you’ve never been to the Cairngorms- you need to go! There’s a past blog from our previous stays here. We’ve also got a previous blog from further down the Moray Firth / Moray Coastal trail last year here

We left Pitlochry at 12:30 and we’re back home at 9pm having stopped for some shopping in nearby Thetford. So a very good run indeed!

We’d had a brilliant time on our travels- Scotland once more ticked our boxes- and by staying East… no midges!!!!

Until next time

Lx

Adventures in Edinburgh- Excellent exhibitions and dog friendly hospitality

Gandalf the VW is parked up on the C&MC Club site on the south side of Edinburgh, having had a good run up from Grassington Club site (Wharfedale) this morning.

We made a stop Tebay services on the M6 just before the Scotland border- this (somehow, despite many recommendations to stop here over the years) was our first stop ever here. Lets just say it was a very expensive but jolly tasty Loo stop! And forever more our journeys north will factor in this very wonderful Services/Farm shop/deli. We stocked up with meats, sausages, beers, cider and even some Scottish Tablet, pasties and sausage rolls for lunch. And enjoyed the sight of the winter wonderland that surrounded the M6.

On arrival at Edinburgh Club site, we had a very quick set up – less than 10 mins- amazing how much quicker when we aren’t faffing with the awning etc, before whisking Jazz out for a mile loop before the sun set. The site is very close to the Firth of Forth and we could have walked for miles along the wide promenade taking in views of Crammond Island and enjoying the beach area too. But it got dark!

We settled in for an evening in Gandalf, I cooked up a Spag Bol and we enjoyed a few drinks together and a read of our books. The facilities on site were, as always with the Club site network, clean, predictable and good. Heated shower blocks and endless hot water supply are just lovely for mid winter camping – especially when you’ve not had any at home for a while. Perhaps the facilities at Edinburgh were touch dated, but they were clean and worked and thats all that bothered us!

Wednesday arrived after a very peaceful night on site, and was a glorious winters day. Hurrah! Cold yes, but absolutely stunning clear blue skies and wonderful winter light. We had pre arranged a cab from the site as we were taking Jazz to doggy day care- aka Cousin Simon in Leith. However for your reference, there is a very handy mini bus service from the site to the city centre, dog friendly and just £3 pp. This is ideal as the bus stop is a bit of a walk down an unlit road (although there is pavement). It runs from 09.30 to midday into the city and from 4-6pm back to the site from the city. We however used Central Taxis for the entirety of our stay as we were needing to go off the beaten track and returning to site later than the minibus. They are totally dog friendly- just mention when you ring and they will send, very promptly, a dog friendly car to wherever you are. 

So, after settling Jazz – who was about to get incredibly spoilt!- into the window seat at Simon’s pad overlooking Leith Links, Keith and I did a very brisk walk from Leith to Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art (Two)- the main reason we were in Edinburgh at all.

We had tickets for the Ray Harryhausen exhibition. Ray Harryhausen was an American animator and special effects creator who created a form of stop motion model animation known as “Dynamation”. His work involved making the latex moving models for many films such as Jason and the Argonauts, Clash of the Titans and many many more. Harryhausen left his collection, which includes all of his film-related artifacts, to the Ray & Diana Harryhausen Foundation, which he set up in 1986 to look after his extensive collection, to protect his name and to further the art of model stop-motion animation. This collection was being exhibited in Edinburgh to celebrate the centenary anniversary of his birth this year- but it is only on until the end of February.

Keith being a massive film fan, but also a huge admirer of Harryhausen’s work, was beyond excited at the prospect of this visit.

To say that the exhibition delivered all he hoped it would and more is a huge understatement. It was excellent, but especially for Keith who has enjoyed, and been inspired by these films for his entire life.

We spent a good two hours or so enjoying the models on display, before nipping back to Leith to collect Jazz, and making our way into Leith for lunch. Leith and Edinburgh are exceptionally dog friendly. There was only one place in our entire stay that said no dogs allowed, and so we had plenty of choice to wine and dine ourselves with our furry friend. We used this website and looked out for the stickers on windows Another good resource for Dog Friendly Edinburgh

We enjoyed lunch at Teuchters Landing, a really cool Scottish whiskey and Gin bar with a roaring fire and overlooking the river. Their food was delicious and we liked it so much we went back for breakfast the next day! (dog friendly only until 6pm) 

From here we were suitably stuffed, so we decided to walk again up from Leith into Edinburgh along the Water O Leith pathway, part river path and part disused railway path. It took us all the way to Waveney station right in the heart of the city and was lovely (2.5 miles from Leith but the path runs for 12 miles in total and is all traffic free) 

We then spent the remainder of the afternoon mooching about and enjoying some drinks and more food at Holyrood 9A, another exceptionally dog friendly bar that bring dogs out treats on a silver platter! 

Thursday dawned not quite so bright and crisp, more damp and dismal, but it wasn’t going to stop us. Our cab took us to Leith to drop Jazz again, but not before a humongous breakfast at Teichter’s Landing and a breakfast cocktail.

We dropped Jazz and then made our way to Holyrood Palace, the official royal residence for when the senior Royals are in the Capital city (which actually tends only to be for a week in July.) Situated at the bottom of the Royal Mile and beneath Arthur’s Seat, remnants of a former volcano, Holyrood dates back to the 16th Century and was even home to Mary Queen of Scots.

We visited all of the state rooms which were brilliant to see, and the historic apartments where Mary Queen of Scots resided too. Before the Palace was built there stood an Abby, the remains of which are now engrossed into the wing of the Palace.

We really REALLY enjoyed our self guided tour, taking the processional route in and especially seeing the Royal Dining room, the state rooms, Queen Victoria’s Tarten dress dating from the late 1800s, and even jewels that belonged to Mary Queen of Scots.

We can’t believe we haven’t visited before. It really is a great place to see.

From here, we made our way back to pick up Jazz who once again had been spoilt and pampered with lovely Simon, and then walked back into the city centre via the Royal Mile. We had a few drinks in the historic pubs, full of atmosphere, and abnormally quiet; we really felt for the businesses up here, tighter restrictions but not tight enough to close and therefore get financial help, were definitely emptier than any time we’ve ever been before. 

At the top of the mile we took pictures of the Castle – usually when we visit in August the area is taken over by tattoo seating. My gosh it was bitterly cold up there though! 

Dinner was at The last drop, on Grassmarket, a favourite area of ours, and we both enjoyed haggis of course along with Crofters Pie and Cullen skink before making our way back to Gandalf at a respectable hour in preparation for our journey back home and a bump back to reality in the morning to sort our heating and hot water at home out!

We made the journey in home in a record 6 hours 50 mins – leaving the site at 8am and pulling onto our drive at 3pm, with just one very brief 5 minute leg stretch south of Grantham. 

The heating is still not fixed nor is the hot water but our guy now has discovered the problem so its on its way to being fixed which is good. 

We’d had a brilliant time away and absolutely no regrets in abandoning the house last weekend whatsoever! We highly highly recommend visiting the Ray Harryhausen exhibition if you can, they say its not going to be touring anywhere else in the UK and this is a rare trip out for the memorabilia. 

We’ve got a couple of weekends at home now but we are looking forward to lots of camping that is arranged for February onwards. 

Until Next Time 

Lx